Hello from Israel

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duvdev
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Hello from Israel

Post by duvdev »

Hello
I am waiting for my max V2 kit to arrive.

any tips for a 3d printing noob?
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Eaglezsoar
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Re: Hello from Israel

Post by Eaglezsoar »

Hi and welcome to the forum!
The best tip at this point would be to download and read the build manual for the V2.
User Geneb has spent a lot of time creating the best build manual ever created and be sure
to read, understand and follow all of his instructions during your build.
Have a Happy build and we will be here if you have any questions.
If you don't already have the manual it is located here: http://download.seemecnc.com/rostockmax ... -Guide.pdf
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Re: Hello from Israel

Post by geneb »

I wouldn't go as far as "best ever". "Adequate", maybe. :)

g.
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Delta Zee Solutions
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Re: Hello from Israel

Post by Delta Zee Solutions »

Hey geneb,
perhaps you didn't see my new member post comment about the assembly instructions...

http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5926
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Re: Hello from Israel

Post by geneb »

Ok, that scares me. :D

Thanks for the complement. :)

g.
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Delta Zee Solutions
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Re: Hello from Israel

Post by Delta Zee Solutions »

DUVDEV,

The assembly PDF will get you on your way just fine....

The only thing I would have added would be an extra 12 volt power lead pair just like the fan power leads to the hot end so you can power LED lights around the tip. It is a minor thing, but if you add it while building your printer, it is really easy.

Good luck with the build.
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Re: Hello from Israel

Post by geneb »

You can also tap off the PEEK fan leads. That'll give you 12v that turns on every time the hot end is heated and will remain on until the hot end cools to 50c (might be 60c).

g.
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lightninjay
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Re: Hello from Israel

Post by lightninjay »

geneb wrote:You can also tap off the PEEK fan leads. That'll give you 12v that turns on every time the hot end is heated and will remain on until the hot end cools to 50c (might be 60c).

g.
+1, ^this^ is what I did but I also bought a 5v voltage regulator from radioshack and wired up my LED's that i got from RAMtechRob here.

He sells the strip of LEDs with the resistor already soldered inline. I only had to drill out the holes on my platform effector a small bit to get my LEDs to fit.
If at first you don't succeed, you're doing something wrong. Try again, and if it fails again, try once more. Through trial and error, one can be the first to accomplish something great.
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Delta Zee Solutions
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Re: Hello from Israel

Post by Delta Zee Solutions »

duvdef,
I should also mention: DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN the screws! You can easily crush the laminate with the nuts. My son did about 10 screws before I noticed it....
I had to disassemble a piece or two and clamp the laminate and repair it with medium thick CA ( superglue).
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teoman
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Re: Hello from Israel

Post by teoman »

I would have gotten 3 sets of these for the hot end...

http://www.banggood.com/JST-Male-Or-Fem ... 77384.html
The wire on them is very flexible.

I would get some of these wires and desolder everyting from inside the PSU (EXCEPT ON OFF SWITCH) and replace them with these:
http://www.banggood.com/1-Meter-14AWG-O ... 21159.html
Gurus please chime in what gauge they should be.
I think these would make the heated base very easy to manage aswell.


Get this:
http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-Heat- ... 56687.html
Shrinkwrap, it will make everyting very nice. You can use little strips of it on the hot end connectos to color code them aswell...


If you are really in to wire management and making things nice and tidy, you should get some of this aswell:
http://www.banggood.com/Braided-Wire-Ca ... 34696.html

I have not used this but i can see it coming handy.
http://www.banggood.com/5M-Spiral-Wire- ... 17634.html


PS: This is what initally comes to mind. I do not have any of them but if i was rebuilding my printer right now, i would have ordered them at the same time as the printer....

PPS: I am obviously not related to that site.
When on mobile I am brief and may be perceived as an arsl.
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