Large nozzles

User-Generated tips and tricks for the Rostock Max, Orion, H1.1, or H1 Printers
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jeffhuber
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Re: Large nozzles

Post by jeffhuber »

Well I got it working! Here is a 1" hollow cylinder test

this was printed in 14 min with .8mm nozzle, 30 speed, and .5mm layer height. I'm impressed! :D
[img]http://i.imgur.com/yHWp0yjl.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/GKTXd3Cl.jpg[/img]

I also tried it at 60 speed but it was an epic fail. if it had worked - i would have gotten a quality part in 7 minutes!!! :shock: My nylon is pretty damp (lots of popping noises and steam) so I need to get a dry box setup.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/xcHmrmNl.jpg[/img]
Rostock max v2 with e3d v6
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BONE
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Re: Large nozzles

Post by BONE »

Looks promising. Did you buy the nozzle or drill it out one you had? I just got a E3D v6, and I would like to start doing the same thing with ABS.
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jeffhuber
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Re: Large nozzles

Post by jeffhuber »

Bought one from Filastruder
Rostock max v2 with e3d v6
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Generic Default
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Re: Large nozzles

Post by Generic Default »

Nylon is stringier because it has longer polymer chains. The molecules of nylon are ridiculously long, while ABS has more normal sized particles. So basically, nylon will try to stretch with the nozzle and will make a diagonals where the print is supposed to be a hole. ABS doesn't do it as much.

Which is why nylon is best for smaller nozzles and slower speeds and lower layers. If you dry the nylon in an oven, then keep it sealed in a container with desiccant the entire time you print, you will get a much better surface finish. Nylon is good for bearings because it has a really smooth surface finish and high abrasion resistance.
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jeffhuber
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Re: Large nozzles

Post by jeffhuber »

yea, that is my next step is to build a dessicant box to feed from.
Rostock max v2 with e3d v6
jesse
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Re: Large nozzles

Post by jesse »

When I drilled the nozzle to 1.25mm, it was a SeeMeCNC nozzle not a E3D. The SeeMeCNC nozzle is about 7 grams and the E3D nozzle is 2 grams.
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