Bed is calibrated,but hot-end is above the center.

[Cale]

I've recently leveled my Rostock MAX's heated bed.I put the z-height a little bit more above the center(I thought the bed was concave).When I leveled the bed at other spots and it showed it was leveled.When I attempted my first print it wouldn't adhere. I tried to figure out what is wrong by moving the print-head over the bed.Then my dad noticed it would go above the center and only go to the proper height above the spot where it is supposed to land(in case you're wondering I'm 15).I then put the flat part of a square on the build plate and it is very very nearly flat ,especially in the center.I'm wondering,what is going on?I would appreciate any help you can give me.

Thanks,
Cale

[teoman]

Did you go over the calibration loop?

Where you repeat the process many times.

[Russ]

Best to do the Setting the Z Height section in the manual again, then the Adjusting the End-Stops section. Once you have that done, it should be ready to print. Are you printing directly on the glass, or using the glue stick? PLA, or ABS?

Cheers,

[critical_limit]

.... and don´t forget to calibrate your z-hight at temperature you are printing. Otherwise if you doing it with cold components it will be way off

[Jimustanguitar]

Horizontal radius is what's missing. This setting changes the concavity or convexity of the bed. You can have your Z0 set perfectly, and all of your endstops set perfectly level with the bed, and still need to change the radius. Check out the section about it in the manual and all will be revealed

Good Luck!

[Polygonhell]

Horizontal radius is what's missing. This setting changes the concavity or convexity of the bed. You can have your Z0 set perfectly, and all of your endstops set perfectly level with the bed, and still need to change the radius. Check out the section about it in the manual and all will be revealed

Good Luck!

Technically it changes the convexity of the effector motion, the bed remains flat.

[Jimustanguitar]

yeah..... what he said

[Cale]

Thanks everyone for all the answers.I'm also posting to answer some of Russ's questions.On my first attempted print I was using ABS,and I wasn't using the glue SeeMeCNC recomended.Is that ok?

Cale

[Jimustanguitar]

With ABS, you can try gluestick (the purple washable stuff works the best), you can use unscented hairspray (like aquanet), you can make ABS juice by dissolving ABS in acetone, you can use Kapton tape, blue painters tape, lots of stuff.

I've always used aquanet or gluestick. I did try a different kind of gluestick that didn't work, but I don't remember what it was. Purple Elmers is on sale from back to school being over, so go get some of that if you're in doubt.

[RAMTechRob]

I just went and got a 12 pack of Elmers Purple glue sticks and it was pretty cheap. That works almost too good for me. First print is hard to pry off, but then it lasts for around 6 prints.

[Nips916]

Don't mess with hairspray or glue sticks. Just use the abs juice and save yourself the trouble. Its more effective at keeping ABS stuck to the bed and cleanup just takes a razor blade.

[SoCalSteve]

what about PLA? The glue seemed to work well for the ABS so i kept using it the PLA. seems overkill though

[Cale]

Thanks everyone,my printer is all calibrated.I'm now working on printing.

Cale