Mhackney's Rostock Max

[mhackney]

I determined that 20" total length for the Z stepper motor wiring was good. The wires on the motor were 12" long so I cut 8" from the coil of 4 conductor wire that came with the kit. I removed the sheath by grasping the wires with needle nose pliers and sliding it off. I then soldered on the extension, protected the joints with shrink tubing and installed the crimp connector as described in an earlier post. Here's the result and how I routed the wires:

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v78 ... 3066-3.jpg[/img]

The X wiring is a little short and if I accidentally opened the door too far, would stress the connection. I'll likely add 3" to it when I have a few minutes.

[mhackney]

Assemble twelve T-Slot Nuts #32005 and twelve 1/4-20 Button Head Cap Screws # 30419 in the slots where the Idler Assemblies were installed earlier. Only thread on 1 turn, these need to be very loose in order to insert the Vertical Rails.

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v85 ... 7144-3.jpg[/img]

The three Aluminum T-Slot Extrusions #68310 are held in place with four of these T-Slot Nuts at each location. There is a laser engraved line that the bottom of the extrusion should align with as shown here:

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v81 ... 6992-3.jpg[/img]

Slide the extrusion in from the top until its bottom lines up with the mark, then loosely tighten the screws:

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v3 ... 7282-3.jpg[/img]

Now it is starting to look BIG!

[mhackney]

First assemble the Idler Mounts #68360. There are six of these parts and they come as three pairs that are mirror images. This way, you can place the engraved writing side to the inside where you can see the alignment line for the upright extrusions. On each of the six parts, assemble a T-Nut with a 1/4-20 x 1/2" Button Head Cap Screw.

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v70 ... 6990-3.jpg[/img]

Next, assemble the six parts (remember to keep the mirror image pairs together) using the three Top Clamps #68370. You should be able to read the writing as shown.

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v82 ... 7710-3.jpg[/img]

Slide each of these assemblies into their mating slots in the Top Support Plate #68368.

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v81 ... 6162-3.jpg[/img]

Next, attach the Idler mounts to the Top Support Plate. You will use three 4-40 x 1 1/4" Machine Head Pan Screws #30238, three #4 washers and three T-Nuts. The T-Nut goes underneath the Top Support Plate. Do not tighten these too much or you will warp the Top Clamp.

Close-up of screw attachment:

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v81 ... 6050-3.jpg[/img]

Now for the tricky part! First, grow an extra arm and hand...

Actually, installing the Top Support Plate wasn't too bad. I inserted the bottom T-Nut into the extrusion on each of the three idler assemblies in the first pass and then went around again and inserted the top T-Nut. Align the extrusion with the line similar to the way the bottom of the extrusion was aligned in the base. Here's a close-up:

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v70 ... 5754-3.jpg[/img]

[mhackney]

At this point, I followed Gene's instructions for adjusting the Rostock Max.

First, make sure that the aluminum extrusions are aligned with the laser engraved marks on the base end. Tighten the 1/4-20 Socket Head Cap Screws.

TIP: I'm a big fan of ball-end hex wrenches! They really make this go much easier.

Pick one of the Idler Brackets to adjust first and loosen its cap screws slightly - you need to be able to slide the bracket and extrusion around. Align the top of the extrusion with the laser engraved line. Push the extrusion tight against the flats they rest agains in Top Support Plate and tighten the screws. Make sure both sides of the extrusion are aligned to the laser marks.

NOTE: Gene shows a photo and describes that the extrusion must be flat against the flat area. Try as I might, I was unable to do this. I even disassembled the top and one of the extrusions from the skeleton and tried to align just this single one up. The way my parts are cut, there is a .25mm ish gap on all three extrusions. I figure as long as the lengths are all the same (see the next steps) and slight flair outwards of the extrusions over this distance (about 28") is a very slight error. I may be wrong though!

Now measure the distance between the Table and Top Support Plate. If you use a measuring tape, it is convenient to hook it on the bottom side of the Table and measure to the top of the Top Support Plate. My distance was 28 1/8" - write this down as you'll need it to adjust the other 2 extrusions.

Adjust the remaining two extrusions to match the distance you measured above. It is a good idea to measure on both sides of the extrusion - one of mine was about 1/16" off because these Idler Mounts have a bit of slop in them.

Make sure all the cap screws holding all three extrusions are tight and you are done.

[mhackney]

One really cool thing about the Rostock Max is that it is a completely integrated system. It has a base unit to house the electronics and a built-in Filament Bracket - both really nice features.

The filament bracket is assembled from:

two Filament Spool Brackets #68392
two Extruder Brackets #68387
three Extruder Support Spacers #68388
one Extruder Clamp #68389

These install as shown below using captive nylon nuts and screws. Assemble one side first:

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v80 ... 4704-3.jpg[/img]

The four screws that hold the Filament Spool Bracket pass through the Extruder Bracket and screw into two Extruder Support Spacers as shown here:

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v77 ... 4574-3.jpg[/img]

Before assembling the other side, you need to locate the Extruder Clamp as shown here. It simply floats between the tewo Extruder Brackets. It's the part with the two little holes:

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v77 ... 2466-3.jpg[/img]

The Filament Bracket assembly is positioned on the base between the X and Z axes. The tabs on the bracket slide into mating holes on the Table:

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v71 ... 4844-3.jpg[/img]

Install the Extruder Mounting Plate #71534 onto the filament bracket using four nylon lock nuts and screws. This is one place where having the right tool makes the job easier! A very short screwdriver or a ratcheting screwdriver like the one in the photo make this task easier. Note: the unit is flipped upside down in the photo - it's easier to assemble this way.

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v83 ... 4960-3.jpg[/img]

Assemble the Bowden Fitting to the Bowden Drive Push-To-Connect (PTC) adapter and then mount the assembly in the Extruder Mounting Plate. Do not over tighten the PTC fitting or you may strip the threads in the soft aluminum fitting.

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v74 ... 0038-3.jpg[/img]

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v72 ... 0242-3.jpg[/img]

One last photo - it turns out that the serving tray fits perfectly on the Rostock Max's table! This makes it very convenient to keep the hardware organized.

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v70 ... 0122-3.jpg[/img]

[mhackney]

This was my 3rd Steve's Extruder Assembly it was easy to assemble! The best way to get this together is to watch Steve's video: Extruder Drive Assembly. Gene has a nice little supplement to the assembly too.

The only point to note if you've assembled one of these for an H-1 is that the wires should come out the top - which will be the bottom when the extruder is mounted. One other tip: I use a C clamp or a wood hand screw to install the bearings. You can also use a small arbor press if you have one.

Before:
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v83 ... 0292-3.jpg[/img]

After:
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v61 ... 0376-3.jpg[/img]

[mhackney]

The carriage on these printers is the most interesting part! Two Platform Halves #68304 snap together and the U-joints swivel on steel axels. I used a 6" smooth file to gently clean up the sides of the U where the joint is located. The idea is to allow these to rotate freely but not move side to side. I am thinking a little lithium grease will also help here.

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v85 ... 8598-3.jpg[/img]

The entire assembly is held together with twelve sheet metal screws - six on top and six on the bottom. I love designs like this - the two halves are exactly the same but snap together.

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v85 ... 3268-3.jpg[/img]

... to be continued, I need a break!

[howsTricks]

It's been great reading through this thread so far, thanks for doing it!

[mhackney]

Sure thing. I learned a while ago that documenting these builds is just as helpful to me as it is to others! I have built a CNC router years ago and recently 2 CNC milling machines: Grizzly G0704 and MicroMark MiniMill (X2). And my H-1 here and a short one for my son's H-1.1. Lots of builds!

cheers,
Michael

[mhackney]

I next assembled the three Carriage U-Joint Mounts #68332 to the three Arm Plates #68344 using 4-40 Socket Head Screws.

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v75 ... 4932-3.jpg[/img]

Then install the Universal Joints and axles. These are held in place with Sheet Metal Screws.

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v80 ... 2594-3.jpg[/img]

A little white lithium grease was applied.

[mhackney]

Next up is assembling the three carriage assemblies.

As per the manual, I assembled the 15 bearing units.

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v57 ... 2878-3.jpg[/img]

Each of the three Arm Plate assemblies #68344 prepared earlier are mated with a Carriage Plate #68343 with two bearing units sandwiched between:

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v1 ... 5350-3.jpg[/img]

A Belt Clamp is screwed to each as shown in this photo:

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v81 ... 4686-3.jpg[/img]

Here are the three completed assemblies:

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v74 ... 8366-3.jpg[/img]

Six Axle Supports #68381 assemble into three units with a bearing in between:

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v74 ... 5022-3.jpg[/img]

[mhackney]

I had a few PMs about the Lithium Grease. Basically, it is safe to use on plastics and works well. I got mine at an auto parts store:

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v7/ ... 5700-3.jpg[/img]

I use this on universals and bearings but I wouldn't use it on the extrusion. that could get messy! Not sure that any lube is needed there since the Delrin sleeves on aluminum should be fine.

[mhackney]

Now we're starting to look like a delta robot printer! Gene's instructions on assembling, installing and adjusting the bearing assemblies is spot on.

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v69 ... 5814-3.jpg[/img]

I put a spot of lithium grease on the universals with a toothpick as I assembled the delta arms. It made them slide on easily too.

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v69 ... 5896-3.jpg[/img]

Everything moves nice and smooth with no slop. Looks great a this point.

Note: I forgot to mention that I shaped the ends of the delta arms on my 1" desktop belt sander with a 220 grit belt. Made short work of it!

[jimrk]

just a note, (I missed this) when installing the Carriage U-Joint Mounts there is an top and bottom if you plan to use the existing hole to mount the bolt for the end stops. If not all the same, all the switches will not be mounted on the same side of the mounts. (not a big deal but cleaner if they all match)

[mhackney]

I drew up a design for a glass top for my Onyx table:

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v63 ... 9174-3.jpg[/img]

I took it to a glass shop and got one 3/16" thick. Cost just less than $15 and took 1 day. The edges were nicely flame polished to dull them.

[mhackney]

Thanks jimirk. I haven't got the yet so I'm not sure what I'm looking for but I'll take a closer look tonight.

Cheers,
Michael

[mhackney]

Short post, been busy this week. But the Rostock is coming along nicely, I should be able to print by the weekend.

Upper Idler's installed loosely in their slots:

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v74 ... 5526-3.jpg[/img]

[mhackney]

Well, "necessity is the mother of invention" held true yet again!

As I was installing the belts, the T-Nuts that hold the adjuster popped out. These are impossible to get to without taking the carriage off. So, that's what I did. While I was "there" I thought, hmm, what if I go ahead and route the belt and feed it through those pesky slots and fasten it in the clamps BEFORE installing the carriage assembly on the extrusions? So that's what I did and I can report, it was MUCH easier!

You could actually do this when you install the carriage originally. You would just need to install the idlers at the top (as per my last post) first and then follow these instructions to install the carriage and belt at once.

First route the belt through the slot in the bottom of the carriage with the teeth oriented as shown:

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v71 ... 5072-3.jpg[/img]

Then install the clamp. Here's a TIP - secure the T-Nuts with a little dab of supper glue to keep them in place! It works.

Now you can route the belt through the lower base. It passes through the opening near the extrusion and then passes BETWEEN the lower idler assemblies. Do not go around the gear yet - this leaves enough slack to install the belt at the other end.

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v79 ... 5174-3.jpg[/img]

Pass the belt up the slot of the extrusion making sure the teeth face "in" and the belt is not twisted. Wrap it over the top idler (make sure to push the idler all the way down in its slots - I had not done that yet in the photo):

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v74 ... 5266-3.jpg[/img]

Pass the belt down through the opening and to the carriage assembly:

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v84 ... 4934-3.jpg[/img]

The carriage should be resting on the table in the proper orientation as shown above. Make sure that the belt is routed properly and not twisted. Then, push the belt through the upper slot in the carriage. Slide the carriage into position on the extrusion and fasten the belt with the clamp making sure to remove slack:

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v71 ... 4840-3.jpg[/img]

At this point, you install the eccentric Cheapskate bearings and adjust them to remove slop. Then install and adjust the Axel Supports - exactly as the manual describes except now you have the belt installed! Make sure the belt is in the slot in the extrusion. I went ahead and tensioned the belt at this point and then reattached the delta arms/axel assembly. This was a snap.

Even having to disassemble the carriage units to install the belt like this was easier than the first attempt I made to route the belt through those little slots! If you do the initial install like this, it would be MUCH easier.

Regards,
Michael

[mhackney]

jimirk,
I now understand your post!

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v11 ... 9210-3.jpg[/img]

There is only one hole in the Carriage Universal Joint Mounts that the End Stop Screw goes into. If you orient all of these holes the same (say to the left side as you face it) it will make for a "neater" install of the End Stop Switches.

[dbarrans]

Michael, it looks like your belt is twisted somewhere in your last picture. The teeth on the belt should be facing towards the aluminum post.

- dan

[mhackney]

That's the tag end extending past the clamp! The belt is installed correctly.

thanks!

[dbarrans]

Uh, nevermind. I guess that's the loose tail of the belt, and the other part is behind it in the shadow where it should be. I don't recall my belts being long enough to have that much of a tail. It's been a couple weeks.

- dan

[mhackney]

The Limit Switches installed easily following Gene's instructions:

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v63 ... 9144-3.jpg[/img]

So now it is mostly electronics and wiring and I'll be ready to Rostock and Roll!

[JakeCShake]

That is an awful lot of extra belt...ours never had that. FYI...probably should cut and eliminate the excess in case it interferes with with your endstops....

[mhackney]

Thanks Jake, I do plan to cut these but will wait until I have everything sorted out. I have about 1/4" protruding from the lower clamp.

My end stop wiring was also all the same length and quite long. So I am sure there are tweaks here and there to the BOM for this printer.

cheers,
Michael