Max v2 assembly - Getting the 22ga & 26ga wires in the tower

[vaderj]

So I have spent over three hours trying to get these 8 little wires threaded through the extruded aluminum tower - I am starting to think that my towers were not drilled to spec! With just the four 22ga wires, there is very little room left.
I have tried, as stated in the manual, rotating the tube, and the wires just bind up midway through.
I have tried starting with just the four 22ga and then a pair of the 26ga, but before I can start on the second pair of 26ga, the wires bind up in the middle of the hole.
I have, from recommendations from reddit, also tried using fishing line to assist, but 12lbs line is all I have and after four attempts, it has broken every time.

SeeMeCNC has still not answered my question about the diameter of the hole in the tower - can anyone with a V2 and a micrometer measure the diameter of the middle hole on their aluminum tower?
Does anyone have any other ideas? I fear I am going to have to replace my wires anyway - they have been bound up so many times from all these attempts, and if they have the durability of USB or CAT-6 conductors, they are likely toast.

Also - Does anyone know how to get ahold of SeeMeCNC support? Email apparently is not the way!

Thanks!

[Russ]

This was the trickiest part of the build for me. After many attempts with coat hangers, sticks etc, my solution was to solder the smaller wires to a larger guide wire. Once the wire was threaded through the tower, I just clipped off the soldered end a bit and all was good. Definitely a tight fit.

As for support, I have had success via phone and the chat applet that pops up on the SeeMeCNC website. Haven't tried email.

Cheers,

[Aurora900]

So the wires are something I covered in detail in my build thread. The 18 was easy, the 22 was more difficult and I too had the same issue you did. They like to bunch up about a third of the way though. I ended up trying to snake it through too but failed. I even tried twisting all of the wires together which was a failure as well... but then I realized why it failed: because twisting the wires made the bundle thicker. I decided to untwist the 26ga wire and straighten everything out and then I got it to go though. The manual had suggested twisted those 26ga wires to make it easier/keep track of the pairs but all it did was make it worse it seems.

If you want to see that post about the wires in my build thread its here http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... =10#p50172

[nitewatchman]

I used the cleaning rod I use with my .204Ruger rifle. The .20 caliber rod is just the right size!

nitewatchman

[Earthbound]

There's a simple way to do this, and I hope Gene puts it in the manual.

The #18 bundle is stiff enough that it is easy to push it through. If you are having trouble with it bunching up, stop and smooth it out. If the wires aren't all tangled, it will slide in will little hassle. Got it in?

Now take the #22/#26 bundle and tape it end to end with the #18 bundle. Use a smooth wrap of kapton tape to keep things skinny. Now pull out the #18 bundle thereby pulling the #22/#26 bundle in.

Remove the tape. Grab another rail. Repeat process to get end stop wires into this rail.

Put #18 bundle in last rail.

[Aurora900]

There's a simple way to do this, and I hope Gene puts it in the manual.

The #18 bundle is stiff enough that it is easy to push it through. If you are having trouble with it bunching up, stop and smooth it out.

Now take the #22/#26 bundle and tape it end to end with the #18 bundle. Use a smooth wrap of kapton tape to keep things skinny. Now use the #18 bundle to pull the #22/#26 bundle in.

Remove the tape. Grab another rail. Repeat process to get end stop wires into this rail.

Put #18 bundle in last rail.

You might just be a genius... that's better than what I came up with lol

[crocky]

I just used a length of spare wire as a guide wire and tied them all together and it all went nicely into place.

[geneb]

This was the trickiest part of the build for me. After many attempts with coat hangers, sticks etc, my solution was to solder the smaller wires to a larger guide wire. Once the wire was threaded through the tower, I just clipped off the soldered end a bit and all was good. Definitely a tight fit.

I'm stealing this.


Also, there's no issue with the hole size. Those extrusions are...extruded. Basically aluminum stock is pulled through a die that gives it that shape. No holes are drilled.

g.

[vaderj]

Finally got those wires pulled through last night! I think that the comment about coiling those wires should be removed - to get the wires through the aluminum, I had to uncoil all of them and remove all the little bends. Also had to solder the 22ga wires to a steel guide wire and then stagger and tape the 26ga, along with wrap the entire bunch of wires a few times with the tape, every few inches.

On a side note I may be blind - all the little 4 conductor electrical connectors are all the same ; for instance, on P266, Figure A-2 of http://download.seemecnc.com/rostockmax ... -Guide.pdf
It shows a "Male LP Connector" being added to the "EZStruder Extension Cable". This is the EXACT same connector that is on the EZStruder NEMA motor - Am I completely missing something? None of the included LP connectors appear to connect to anything other than the RAMBo.
Another example of the same problem - P268, figure A-6 shows another couple connectors that were not in any of my parts bags - are these more parts that need to be purchased separately?

[Aurora900]

Finally got those wires pulled through last night! I think that the comment about coiling those wires should be removed - to get the wires through the aluminum, I had to uncoil all of them and remove all the little bends. Also had to solder the 22ga wires to a steel guide wire and then stagger and tape the 26ga, along with wrap the entire bunch of wires a few times with the tape, every few inches.

On a side note I may be blind - all the little 4 conductor electrical connectors are all the same ; for instance, on P266, Figure A-2 of http://download.seemecnc.com/rostockmax ... -Guide.pdf
It shows a "Male LP Connector" being added to the "EZStruder Extension Cable". This is the EXACT same connector that is on the EZStruder NEMA motor - Am I completely missing something? None of the included LP connectors appear to connect to anything other than the RAMBo.
Another example of the same problem - P268, figure A-6 shows another couple connectors that were not in any of my parts bags - are these more parts that need to be purchased separately?

That's the appendix you're looking at. It's an optional step. If you're not using quick disconnects with JST connectors just ignore that section (though quick disconnects are very useful if you plan on swapping out the hot end)

[vaderj]

But what if I am planning on swapping out the hot end in the future? The e3d seems to be the most popular hot end to go to after everything is assembled. Are the connectors "LP" connectors that were provided used for anything, because the ones which I received are not appropriate for a quick disconnect as they are the exact same connector. attached is a picture of what i am talking about.
One the left is the NEMA motor connector, on the right is the connector that is supposed to mate with it?

[Earthbound]

One the left is the NEMA motor connector, on the right is the connector that is supposed to mate with it?

No. The connector on the left (attached to motor lead) gets plugged directly into the RAMBo, except for the motor on the EZstruder. For the EZstruder, the plug gets cut off and the wires are spliced to the #22 wires in a standard build. This is shown on pages 146 + 147 of the manual. Eventually, you'll take one of those connectors (like the one on the right) and attach it to the other end of the #22 wires (covered on pages 190 + 191).

The extra "LP" connectors can be put to use IF you choose to install quick disconnects. The mating connector is available from the source listed on page 9. Instructions for the QD options are in Appendix A, which begins at page 266.

[printednest]

I had used silon wire, went trought tower. Attached wires taped on the end with silon, and then just went back up to tower binded on this silon leading wire... All 3 towers at 1st try.

[bot]

I had used silon wire, went trought tower. Attached wires taped on the end with silon, and then just went back up to tower binded on this silon leading wire... All 3 towers at 1st try.

Agreed. I used household string. I didn't even have to cut any off the roll, so technically I didn't even "use" it. First try, easy as pie.

[PrintableStudios]

I had used silon wire, went trought tower. Attached wires taped on the end with silon, and then just went back up to tower binded on this silon leading wire... All 3 towers at 1st try.

Agreed. I used household string. I didn't even have to cut any off the roll, so technically I didn't even "use" it. First try, easy as pie.

Agreed. I wrapped some nylon string around the wires about 4-6" down in a loose spiral and taped the string. All of the wires pulled through with a nice tug. The only catch is to make sure to offset the endstop pins to make the diameter small engough to fit through the extrusion.

[bot]

Yuuuuuuup. Exactly. Gene!! Put this in the manual!

[JFettig]

Bumping an old thread, I sent my wires up the extrusion before they were attached, I left the outer insulation on and they pushed right up!

[Eaglezsoar]

Bumping an old thread, I sent my wires up the extrusion before they were attached, I left the outer insulation on and they pushed right up!

I agree that it is easier to run the wires before the extrusions are mounted. Good tip.

[add1ct3dd]

I did what gene said in the updated manual - when you strip the sleeving, foil and spare wire from the whole wire - use the thin metal wire it comes with - works perfect. Thread that through on its own, wrap it around the bundle of wires, and gently pull it through, worked for both 22awg and 18awg for me.