Simplify3D ver 2.0.0

[mhackney]

Not really round-about. What it does is allow you to modify STL files that someone else created and posted without having the original CAD source file. If you have the CAD source file, then by all means make your tweaks there! That's what I do, I design in RhinoCAD and if I need to add support structure I do it right in the file. I can make my supports exactly the way I want them to optimize print speed, support characteristics, ease of removal, location, etc. If you don't have the CAD, then you need a tool like MM to let you do this.

[joecnc2006]

Still wondering if Simplify3D is worth purchasing. I started using CURA for g-Code generation never fails to generate like Repetier-Host does. I just use Repetier to print as I like the interface.

[Eaglezsoar]

If you want S3D for it's custom supports you should check out the interactive supports in Meshmixer, very slick and impressive! that is what I do when part needs support.
It is a extra step and MM orients the part wrong so you have to fiddle with rotation, but well worth it !!
MM makes these cool tree like structures with small tips that touch part... they easily beak off after print will barely a trace.
Meshmixer is FREE
http://www.meshmixer.com/

I did the Sea Serpent print with MM support.

Sea Serpent 3D print by Trick Laser -200mm tall black PLA(small).jpg

Is the sea serpent a Thingiverse item, I could not find it by searching for it.

[geneb]

Still wondering if Simplify3D is worth purchasing. I started using CURA for g-Code generation never fails to generate like Repetier-Host does. I just use Repetier to print as I like the interface.

Repetier-Host *NEVER* fails to "generate". What you've got is a problem with Slic3r. Repetier-Host doesn't slice anything.

g.

[joecnc2006]

Still wondering if Simplify3D is worth purchasing. I started using CURA for g-Code generation never fails to generate like Repetier-Host does. I just use Repetier to print as I like the interface.

Repetier-Host *NEVER* fails to "generate". What you've got is a problem with Slic3r. Repetier-Host doesn't slice anything.

g.

Yes should have said Slic3R

[bvandiepenbos]

yes Eagle it is on thingiverse
original,
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16860
version somebody cleaned up,
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16881

That was a 17 hour print at about 200mm tall.

I think it was scanned with a Artec scanner.
Artec has other cool 3d scans for free download...
http://www.artec3d.com/gallery/3d-models/

[Eaglezsoar]

yes Eagle it is on thingiverse
original,
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16860
version somebody cleaned up,
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16881

That was a 17 hour print at about 200mm tall.

I think it was scanned with a Artec scanner.
Artec has other cool 3d scans for free download...
http://www.artec3d.com/gallery/3d-models/

Thank you Brian! My wife loves the dragon.
As long as I have been doing this stuff you would think I should know the answer to this next question
but what do you use to convert an object file to an STL or GCode?
Brian please read your private mail on the forum.

[bvandiepenbos]

yes Eagle it is on thingiverse
original,
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16860
version somebody cleaned up,
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16881

That was a 17 hour print at about 200mm tall.

I think it was scanned with a Artec scanner.
Artec has other cool 3d scans for free download...
http://www.artec3d.com/gallery/3d-models/

Thank you Brian! My wife loves the dragon.
As long as I have been doing this stuff you would think I should know the answer to this next question
but what do you use to convert an object file to an STL or GCode?
Brian please read your private mail on the forum.

open .obj in netfab, resize and run repair, then export .stl for slicing.

[Eaglezsoar]

Thanks again, Brian. Never to old to learn something new.

[Pdegior]

I've had my Rostock Max for a couple of months. It's the first printer I've owned and am quite pleased with it. I purchased Simplify3D a few days ago and at first I was very impressed. It is by far the fastest slicer I've tried. Overall I love all of the features it offers. However, like quite a few others I've been having trouble with gaps between my perimeters and infill. I've played with all sorts of settings and haven't been able to figure it out. I thought I had calibration issues and spent many hours printing and measuring etc. I went back and printed a small object with Simplify3d and then Slic3r. Slic3r had no gaps ( well maybe one small one that was barely visible). Simplify3D leaves gaps all over the place. I tried to match the settings from Slic3r as close as I can to no avail. So, my conclusion is that it must be in the G-code (which I have not taken the time to study) .Maybe someone smarter than me can figure it out, because I seem to be failing. I truly want it to get it figured out because I really like so much about it. But, if I cant produce quality prints, then I will have to use Slic3r and patiently wait for it to slice.

[bubbasnow]

I've had my Rostock Max for a couple of months. It's the first printer I've owned and am quite pleased with it. I purchased Simplify3D a few days ago and at first I was very impressed. It is by far the fastest slicer I've tried. Overall I love all of the features it offers. However, like quite a few others I've been having trouble with gaps between my perimeters and infill. I've played with all sorts of settings and haven't been able to figure it out. I thought I had calibration issues and spent many hours printing and measuring etc. I went back and printed a small object with Simplify3d and then Slic3r. Slic3r had no gaps ( well maybe one small one that was barely visible). Simplify3D leaves gaps all over the place. I tried to match the settings from Slic3r as close as I can to no avail. So, my conclusion is that it must be in the G-code (which I have not taken the time to study) .Maybe someone smarter than me can figure it out, because I seem to be failing. I truly want it to get it figured out because I really like so much about it. But, if I cant produce quality prints, then I will have to use Slic3r and patiently wait for it to slice.

did you try the latest version? 2.1.1 i think came out a few days ago.

I have s3d working on my v1 and i do not have the issues you mentioned. you should throw up a screen capture of your settings.

[Pdegior]

I've attached my factory file and a photo. I appreciate any help.

You can see that it looks like I'm under extruding but I can't figure out what to change. My settings match what is in Slic3r. I've been cautioned though that they slice very differently and settings are not necessarily interchangeable.

It tried to upload the factory file but it won't allow it. Here are some screen shots instead.

Extruder tab

Infill tab

Layer tab

Other tab

Thanks for the input.

[bubbasnow]

2 places where we can change values to help fill those spots are extrusion multiplier and filament diameter, have you actually measured your filament to ensure it is exactly 1.75?

[Pdegior]

2 places where we can change values to help fill those spots are extrusion multiplier and filament diameter, have you actually measured your filament to ensure it is exactly 1.75?

I did measure and it is right on the money at 1.75. I left the extrusion multiplier since that is what it was set to in Slic3r and produced a good print. The extrusion steps are set in the firmware right? Unless there is some additional math going on in Simplify that might effect the extrusion?

[bubbasnow]

I dont know how each software developer did the calculations for extrusions or for diameter for the output of physical media through the nozzle... obliviously you put the same values in and you are not getting the same results so something must be different. Start with a small calibration cube in s3d and start tweaking. bump up the extrusion multiplier or lower the diameter of the filament to increase the amount that is being extruded.

[artexmg]

I've attached my factory file and a photo. I appreciate any help.

photo.JPG

You can see that it looks like I'm under extruding but I can't figure out what to change. My settings match what is in Slic3r. I've been cautioned though that they slice very differently and settings are not necessarily interchangeable.

It tried to upload the factory file but it won't allow it. Here are some screen shots instead.

Thanks for the input.

Well, it looks to me that this is the Extrusion Width.

I would start by changing the Extrusion Width to Manual, and set 0.55 (10% than the nozzle), just to establish a baseline.

Then, in the infill menu, I would change Outline Overlap up to 35%, to make the infill touch the outlines perimeters.

Try to print with this settings. Most probably, your print is going to be a little better as the infill will touch the hole in the piece; however, the rest would be similar at your previous print.

Now, start playing with Extrusion % (the dial you see in the printing menu, besides to Speed %). I do this while printing, so I can see the changes inmediatly. You could start with Extrusion at 100% for half of the print, then change to 110% other half, 120% and 130%. You will see the difference in each part with different extrusion %. Of course, you could test with lower % (I mean, 90%, 80%, 70%,etc). Once you got it right, you can set it fixed in Extrusion Multiplier and get back the dial Extrusion to 100%

My bet is that this will fix your problem with the infill being "thin"

The other problem, the infill not touching the outline perimeter, should be fixed with the parameter I mentioned before (Outline Overlap).

And yes, same parameters in Slic3r and S3D would not produce the same results

[artexmg]

Thanks for the input.

Just to be safe, this is the dial for Extrusion I am talking about.

[artexmg]

I did the Sea Serpent print with MM support.

Nice, very nice !

I just went through all the tutorial videos, and I believe MM is worth learning, as it brings in a set of new tools. I am more of an engineer than of an artist, and as I see the videos, using MM is quite empirical. So I don't think I would use it a lot... but some times these tools can come in being handy.

Anyway, I was very interrested in what you said about supports, and was a bit disappointed when I did not see anything about that in the tutorials.
I will now try to install the software and search a bit more about these supports in MM, but if you could tell me more, that would be much appreciated !

Here is a video on how to generate the supports using MeshMixer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aFTyTV3wwsE

Very Impressive !!!

[artexmg]

I've attached my factory file and a photo. I appreciate any help.

photo.JPG

You can see that it looks like I'm under extruding but I can't figure out what to change. My settings match what is in Slic3r. I've been cautioned though that they slice very differently and settings are not necessarily interchangeable.

It tried to upload the factory file but it won't allow it. Here are some screen shots instead.

Extruder.JPG

Infill.JPG

Layer.JPG

Other.JPG

Thanks for the input.

Did you manage to fix this?

Thanks

[Pdegior]

I did for the most part. I increased my extrusion speed and also increased the overlap setting to try to make sure it covered any gaps when changing direction.

[artexmg]

I did for the most part. I increased my extrusion speed and also increased the overlap setting to try to make sure it covered any gaps when changing direction.

Great!

I am not sure if it is related or not, but I had been experiencing perimeters with not infill (even though infill was 30%) for small walls AND gaps.

I just discovered that, lowering the value of the "Extrusion Width" to the same value of the nozzle (in my case, 0.4 mm), I got the walls to be infilled and, also, it closed the gaps.

Yes, I have, as well, a high value (40%) of overlap infill as well.

[Pdegior]

I'll try and play with my nozzle setting too. I would have thought that the software would account for this but that might not be the case.