Getting quite frustrated with my hollow calibration cube .
The stl is 20x20x10 .8 perimeter .2 layer height .6 bottom shell thickness. It prints like butter all layers stick just flares a bit at the bottom. So after going through some of the posts i have found and playing with my extrusion multiplier (set at 93.02%) i got my perimeter to exactly .8. But my outside dimentions are 19.25x 19.25 with z almost perfect 9.98. What gives? Where am i losing .75 of a mm? I know abs will shrink as it cools but the fact that z is dead on and x/y are off the same amount leads me to think that i have a setting issue somewhere. What is the tolerance you guys are holding? .75 works out to almost a 1/32 at .029. Is holding +/- .005in or even .010 reasonable? I would rather not monkey with my models to make them fit when i print them.
Rostock Max V2- E3d V6 Hot-end, Shower Curtain Enclosure.
When I tell people what I do all day at work, they seem amazed that someone is willing to PAY me. Now that i think about it...... So am I.
geneb wrote:You might want to recalibrate the extruder. Triffid Hunter's guide (linked in the manual) is the go-to guide for dialing in an extruder.
g.
I've done the length test. His fine tuning method on the other hand is a bit tougher. I am using the monolithic e3d platform, which severely hampers my ability to see the layers as they are printing with an object so small. I guess i could just pause it every once in a while? Don't really understand how e-steps would fix the x/y dimensions because my quality is spot on and perimeter thickness and object height are correct? Wouldn't any adjustment at this point throw the other dimensions out of whack? I'm sure I'm missing something simple in the concept of how this all ties together.... but it no longer makes sense....... It's time to go home and drink a beer.
Maybe with a "clear' head this will all make sense.
Rostock Max V2- E3d V6 Hot-end, Shower Curtain Enclosure.
When I tell people what I do all day at work, they seem amazed that someone is willing to PAY me. Now that i think about it...... So am I.
Do you have the default arms? Try printing out 626pilot's 250mm calibration pillar and see if your effector does anything weird, like knock the print over or get too high off the object. If it does your arm length could be off a bit, resulting in shrunken parts. This shouldn't be the case if you have the stock arms though.
Nylocke wrote:Do you have the default arms? Try printing out 626pilot's 250mm calibration pillar and see if your effector does anything weird, like knock the print over or get too high off the object. If it does your arm length could be off a bit, resulting in shrunken parts. This shouldn't be the case if you have the stock arms though.
Will try this first thing tomorrow. Probably help if i take a couple of pics too......
After going through e3d's instructions one more time, I noticed that everyone is setting their max temp at 300 while the instructions clearly say not to exceed 295 for fear of damaging the thermistor. Should I just play it safe and bump everything down to say maybe 290? For those of you printing nylon- is that hot enough? Should I look into upgrading the thermistor?
Rostock Max V2- E3d V6 Hot-end, Shower Curtain Enclosure.
When I tell people what I do all day at work, they seem amazed that someone is willing to PAY me. Now that i think about it...... So am I.
I print Bridge around 255-260 with my Kraken and 645 around 265-270. Shouldn't have to get up near 300 unless you're doing Polycarb or that new Triton filament.
eatoutmikey wrote:I've done the length test. His fine tuning method on the other hand is a bit tougher. I am using the monolithic e3d platform, which severely hampers my ability to see the layers as they are printing with an object so small.
What if you programmed things so that after every layer the head would move off to the side and pause for a couple of seconds? You can do this with (at least) Slic3r, by setting up custom layer change G-code. Have the code move to an extreme X and Y position (away from the object) and pause for three seconds. You might also be able to use Repetier-Host's "Run on Pause" script along with the Pause button (which I can't seem to find right now, but assume that it's there somewhere...)
dtgriscom wrote:
What if you programmed things so that after every layer the head would move off to the side and pause for a couple of seconds? You can do this with (at least) Slic3r, by setting up custom layer change G-code. Have the code move to an extreme X and Y position (away from the object) and pause for three seconds. You might also be able to use Repetier-Host's "Run on Pause" script along with the Pause button (which I can't seem to find right now, but assume that it's there somewhere...)
My $0.02,
Dan
Yea, Cura has a pause at Z plugin that I can use to inject custom code at specified Z or layer. Haven't played around with it yet, but I guess now is my chance. Will let you guys know how it works out, and post the code I come up with for future reference.
Rostock Max V2- E3d V6 Hot-end, Shower Curtain Enclosure.
When I tell people what I do all day at work, they seem amazed that someone is willing to PAY me. Now that i think about it...... So am I.
Ok, Im doing something wrong..... have my e steps down to 80.... still no gap in 95% infill.... abs .2 layer 40mm/s infill speed temp at 235....... i can tell where the nozzle moved but still no visible voids..... i do hear the extruder change speeds when I give an M92 E(whatever) command through Repetier(haven't played with MatterControl enough to figure out how to send gcode during print.. any help?), but alas no visible difference. Mind you I started out with 93.33 e step value. Am I just being stupid this week?
Rostock Max V2- E3d V6 Hot-end, Shower Curtain Enclosure.
When I tell people what I do all day at work, they seem amazed that someone is willing to PAY me. Now that i think about it...... So am I.
So 80 seems like my number completely solid top.... TINY voids at 95% infill...... Perimeter thickness is perfect at .8 but outside dimensions stayed the same at 19.25...... Will print height test tomorrow see if that gives me any results. What else can I do to change my outside dimension? It seems no matter what i do it stays .75mm small at 19.25
Rostock Max V2- E3d V6 Hot-end, Shower Curtain Enclosure.
When I tell people what I do all day at work, they seem amazed that someone is willing to PAY me. Now that i think about it...... So am I.
