Best Practices questions

[tbone_atl]

Hi,

Just got my printer running and have some quick/stupid questions, especially for those that have their machines really dialed in:


1) Wondering how often you change speeds in your settings? In other words, do you just have one set of speeds and generally leave it for all prints or are you changing them based on the type of print?

2) What's a reasonably high/max speed that you can print with? I remember when people first started building delta repraps and people were bragging at 200+mm/min. If you're really in a hurry on a print, what speed to you use?

3) If you're trying for a top-quality vase - what are some tips on speed/fans/etc settings? I've been to a few makerfaires and seen some amazing prints and I want to get there. If you're trying to make a nice "show piece" what are some things to keep in mind?

4) Changing filament - I've only used direct drive/non-bowden setups before. to change the filament, I would typically just cut it close to the extruder bracket and then feed in the new filament, pushing out the old. I saw a video here that shows how to back out the filament. i always heard it was a bad idea to back out filament because it can swell and jam as it gets out of the hot zone. So, what is the *best* way to change filament on these machines please?

[Batteau62]

First, Welcome tbone atl! Congrats on purchasing the RMax.

Just got my printer running and have some quick/stupid questions, especially for those that have their machines really dialed in:

No such thing as a stupid question...only stupid answers...I'll try not to give you those
You'll eventually get your machine "dialed in" and then you'll have to deal with all the variables that pop up anyway. I try to stay on top of what I can control, i.e.-mechanical maintenance, temps(extruded and ambient), speed, filament quality(I extrude my own), etc.

1) Wondering how often you change speeds in your settings? In other words, do you just have one set of speeds and generally leave it for all prints or are you changing them based on the type of print?

I don't change often, but I do slow down for smallish detail and complex direction changes. It's a variable you'll have to play with as your delta experience grows.

2) What's a reasonably high/max speed that you can print with? I remember when people first started building delta repraps and people were bragging at 200+mm/min. If you're really in a hurry on a print, what speed to you use?

Lot's of choices here. What is the nozzle diameter? What's the filament? What's the part geometry? etc...some guys have really cranked it up on here. If you search it you'll find topics. I usually stay in the 50-80mm/ range.

3) If you're trying for a top-quality vase - what are some tips on speed/fans/etc settings? I've been to a few makerfaires and seen some amazing prints and I want to get there. If you're trying to make a nice "show piece" what are some things to keep in mind?

Quality in=quality out. Don't use junk filament, don't cut corners on much of anything. IMO the slicer is the key. If you have crap g-code, you're gonna get a crap print! I use KISSlicer Pro. Development is very slow but I think it generates the most "logical" moves of the slicers I use. I have used Cura too, and gotten good results.

4) Changing filament - I've only used direct drive/non-bowden setups before. to change the filament, I would typically just cut it close to the extruder bracket and then feed in the new filament, pushing out the old. I saw a video here that shows how to back out the filament. i always heard it was a bad idea to back out filament because it can swell and jam as it gets out of the hot zone. So, what is the *best* way to change filament on these machines please?

I use Repetier host, and when I hit -100mm retract a couple times the filament backs down the bowden tube with no problem. Knock on wood this has never been an issue for me. Just be sure your hotend is up to temp.

Hope there are no "stupid" answers here Good luck with the dial in. Happy printing!

[tbone_atl]

Is there a way to "soft power" off your machine after a print?

[teoman]

Unfortunately no. But once it finishes, it swithces off the motors and the heaters. So only the LCD is running. Personally i do not see a problem with those being active after my print finishes. Ofcourse if your printer is new, you should obverve it for a couple of months before you trust it.


Look at the octopi project, it is a remote monitoring system for 3d printers. You could configure it to cut off the power for your printer. IF it is very very very important for you. I can guide you to install a relay in to the machine so that you can modify the Gcode of your prints to ad an auto switch off.

[teoman]

You should also benefit from this:
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... ide#p51525

[tbone_atl]

Thanks - very helpful.

[Nylocke]

If you have a good hotend design (with a small melt zone like the E3d, Hexagon, etc, or with a liner like the SeeMe or J-head) you *should* be able to back the filament out of the nozzle while its cold. I do that all the time with my Kraken after its cooled. It puts up a bit of resistance but after a little pop with ABS or PLA it comes right out. Also has worked with T-glase and Bridge. There is a bit of a swell at the end but I cut that off after I pull it out so it doesn't cause any problems the next time.