Meant to include, I have an E3D v5, not a v6, but a v6 should actually be even less sensitive to ambient temperature since it has a longer PTFE liner. As long as you ambient temperature stays below 90C I think you should be fine, since ABS glass transition temp is around 105C and even at that point it would likely still be solid enough to extrude, especially considering we're only talking about a few millimeters of filament in the hotend. ABS simply does not have the tendency to form a plug like PLA in our application.
My initial though on heating the chamber was power resistors on heatsinks with fans and active control with a microcontroller. I picked up what should've been 4 2Ohm 100Watt resistors, but they shipped 0.1 Ohm. I later ordered a couple 2.2 Ohm 50 Watt resistors but never used them either. Once I added the foam insulation I found that I really didn't need any more heat. Nylon may prove me wrong on this but I'm not even sure if heat helps it or not, I just know that I really like trimmer line lately but warping is an issue. It seems that once I get one thing working right (ABS in this case) I just can't be happy and have to move on to the next challenge.
As for using a goldenrod to heat it, that's not really ideal. $$$ per watt is very low. Keep in mind a certain huge commercial printing company uses 400 watt heaters in their printers. They also duct the hot air directly onto the printing layer to get it to the chamber temp as quickly as possible. I noticed that overhangs that worked fine at ambient temps required either support or a little airflow from a blower fan mounted on the effector (like the one now shipping on Orion and maybe RMax v2). I've been printing with support on all the time lately, it's worth it to me in materials cost and the tiny amount of time it takes to remove it to be guaranteed good overhangs and bridges. The cost of reprinting a failed part due to a single bad overhang far exceeds the time and materials cost of support material for me.
As for a picture of my enclosure, I don't think I have a picture of the outside of the new enclosure. I started with a simple wrap of radiant barrier insulation that looked even worse than it does now and I do have pictures of that. I also have some pictures of the inside of the new enclosure which looks very professional and nice on the inside. Not so much on the outside. I eventually want to use some brackets, probably derived from these brackets, to attach the foam more securely, fashion a proper door out of a rigid material including a window, although not a full window which would allow too much heat loss, and paint the entire exterior a nice gloss black to match the melamine rather than the current hideous green color of the foam.
As requested, the only pics I have. One is from before I finished the chamber by closing the front (I was still planning on a proper hinged door at this point) and the other is a recent (few days ago) picture of a print taken through the acrylic window, you can see a small reflection in the picture caused by the window. It's also worth noting that I used extremely thin acrylic for the window. I think it's something like 0.080 inches thick. 0.250 would likely insulate much better and should be fine for a heated chamber, albeit much more expensive than a sheet of insulation.
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