Making T-Glaze crystal clear!

[geneb]

Found on Hackaday:
http://hackaday.com/2014/12/08/making-t ... tal-clear/

g.

[BenTheRighteous]

Good to keep in mind, thanks for sharing!

[jeffhuber]

I was wondering how this would work - XTC on PET and now I have my answer

[Eaglezsoar]

Thanks for the tip! It could be great to have an inexpensive way to coat our prints.

[bot]

That is amazing. I suddenly love t glase even though I hate it. (Any tips on using it?! I suck at it.)

[precisionpete]

Tips on using T-Glase. No particular order and YMMV since I am no expert just playing still.

Using an orion delta with E3D V6 hot end.

Bottom up.
Painters tape bed temp 60C Sticks well
First layer extruder size mine is .4mm so that is first layer.
Slow, I found that 5mm works. Keep it below 20 or your not going to get good results.
Extruder temp 220C (play with this and print speed combo to find what works for you. I still get "stringing" also move out quite a bit from your print with a couple layer skirt to make sure your extruding material because it seems the first few layers have flow problems until it gets going.
I use zero retraction.
Measure the filament real good and use this number when you set up. I solved my problems just by doing this instead of plugging in 1.75mm. Amazing how much of a difference something so small can make in results.
Push print button and sit back and watch the blinking lights

[626Pilot]

For T-glase, I have seen good results printing at 20mm/sec, but it's highly dependent on the model. It CAN'T have any serious overhangs. I would avoid anything over 15 or perhaps 20 degrees at most. You have to print single-walled with no infill. I use Slic3r's "spiral vase" mode and it works pretty well, although it takes years to generate the G-code for some reason.

With an E3D v6 hot end, I usually use a temp around 250 and the bed at 60 with some Elmer's gluestick to hold it down. The ideal layer height is 0.4mm at a minimum, with taller layer heights producing a more translucent surface. Use the biggest nozzle you have.

I have heard that you can help avoid gaps by bumping up the filament flow by 30 percent. T-glase likes to leave gaps even with a mild overhang, especially on those gear vases where it has to change direction suddenly. It just isn't well-suited to that and requires lots of babysitting and tinkering.

I ordered some of the coating stuff from Amazon. I hope it works as well as it looks!