Build Plate breaking

[DLS3141]

I'm finally ready to print something (after who knows how long of putting this project on hold and other delays). Then since I have a Rostock Max V1, I have these two bumps of solder where the power wires connected to the heated bed and they're enough to lift the glass plate a few mm on that edge. I've seen others who cut the glass enough so it's not resting there but still covers the entire build area. OK, so I try that. Now I just have a broken build plate and a lot of bad words were said. Grrr!

Can I just use regular glass? Can I just put blue tape on the Onyx heated bed?

[bvandiepenbos]

You can use a piece of plain glass from the hardware store. Get the 1/4" thick stuff if you can, cut to a 10" x 10" square works fine, it does not have to be round.
I like the thicker 1/4" for flatness.
It won't last as long as boro glass... but is so cheap just get 3-4 pieces. I have had plain glass pull up chunks of glass if I use to much hairspray and stick the ABS to good.

Putting blue tape on the Onyx sounds like a bad idea, if you have to scrape of adhesive residue you risk damaging the traces of pcb.
I don't no for sure, I have always printed on glass.
Maybe somebody else has input?

[BenTheRighteous]

You've got my sympathy for sure. I dropped a screwdriver on my glass plate once while adjusting the end stop screws - that warranted a big F-bomb on the spot, and another once I saw how much it cost to order a replacement.

I don't know what your solder traces look like, but can you sand them down rather than cut the glass?

[Captain Starfish]

I used mirror glass - which is plain old float glass with a backing sheet on it.

No. It's crap. Cracked the 2nd time I heated the bed up. I would not waste my time with 'normal' glass again.

Borosilicate (aka pyrex) all the way. Or take this opportunity to investigate the PEI, Garolite, BuildTak, and other printing surfaces available to you now.