Rostock MAX v2 Done!

[JohnnyDude]

I've finished my Rostock MAX v2 and in the calibration stages. I'm nearly able to sever my love-hate relationship with my Prusa v2 printer!

My build went fine. Good instructions for sure. However, the PSU with the printer tripped me up the last couple of days. As others on the forum seemingly discovered, the Diablotek 600W power supply I recieved was not up to the task. I replaced it with a Corsair CX750M (750W), which someone else had suggested. I've just finished installing that, and I've started PID autotune...

A quick question on autotune and MatterControl's terminal window:
When I attempt to do autotune, I continuously get temperature readouts in the terminal, which are noise and make it difficult to get the data I need. The screenshots from the Rostock v2 build manual don't seem to have this output, so I'm guessing there's some way to disable it? To clarify, I see output like this in the terminal:

Code: Select all

<-T:106.32 B:36.07 B@:0 @:255
<-
<-T:106.19 B:36.07 B@:0 @:255
<-
<-T:106.13 B:36.07 B@:0 @:255
<-
<-T:106.23 B:36.07 B@:0 @:255
<-
<-T:106.54 B:36.07 B@:0 @:255
<-

Is there some way to squelch this output? The "Filter Output" checkbox in that window is not enough, some reason.

[BenTheRighteous]

I also haven't figured that out yet, so if someone else has an answer, I'm also interested.

[jdurand]

I believe there was a very recent firmware update to fix the missing "FILTER" button in the display screen.

[JohnnyDude]

I believe there was a very recent firmware update to fix the missing "FILTER" button in the display screen.

I might not understand what you mean by firmware update. Is that the software loaded through the Arduino IDE?

[jdurand]

Sorry, wrong word. PC software update.

[JohnnyDude]

Sorry, wrong word. PC software update.

Oh okay. Gotcha. In case it's relevant, I have MatterControl 1.2

[teri1337]

I replaced it with a Corsair CX750M (750W), which someone else had suggested. I've just finished installing that, and I've started PID autotune...

Hi johnnyDude! I've been looking into larger power supplies myself. I noted the Corsair CX750M has slightly larger dimensions over the stock DiabloTek 600. Were you able to install in through the bottom opening without difficulty, or did you install it some other way?

-teri1337

[lightninjay]

I personally own the CX750M and it installed just fine through the bottom of the Rostock Max V2. I also modified an old ATX adapter from an old motherboard I had, so I didn't have to chop up the supply cable and void the warranty. Bit more details here. I unearthed the LIE of a single rail on the Diablotek PSU and promptly replaced my power supply to have great success with my printer ever since!

[techstorage]

I have updated my hot end to an E3Dv6 and just added a metal defuser plater to even out the hot bed temp for larger prints. Tonight I had my rostock max v2 shut off twice while trying to do ABS prints. I suspect the stock Viotek 550w power supply isn't handling the load.

After reading this post and seeing that supply was really a two rail, I will have to check out my load balancing. The 750w sounds like a good replacement.

Thanks for posting your findings and solution.

[teri1337]

I had similar issues with the Diablotek600 that came with my Rostock Max v2. I replaced it with an Antec HCG-620M and all of the issues vanished. It works great now. I opted for the 620M mainly because it's relatively small (it easily fit through the access hole at the bottom of the Rostock), it's partially modular, and it has a single "high current" 12V rail that can supply 12V 48A (93% of the 620 watt total), which was more than the printer needs. I found I was able to get all of the power requirements from the single attached motherboard connector, leaving all of the modular connectors unattached in the shipping box, which reduced the cable clutter considerably.