getting rostock max v2 what should I know

[burro breath]

So I will be purchasing a rostock max v2 sometime next month. I have started doing some reading. What are the common problems people have run into with either assembly or operation of the printer. I will be upgrading from the H1 so I am not a total novice. I have already read about the motor dampeners and was wondering if there are any performance benefits other then noise reduction as I have no problem with the noise. Finally what if any upgrades should I get right out of the gate so to speak.

[hubrigant]

I'm still in the build phase of my RMv2, and since it's my first build, I'm nowhere near an expert. Still, I can tell you that you need to pay CAREFUL attention to the orientation of the melamine parts, particularly the bottom plate of the top section. I managed to put it on rotated, which took about a half hour to redo once I realized what I'd done. I then proceeded to install it upside down and didn't notice until I'd finished the mechanical build. Recovery from that mistake took another hour or so.

I'm hoping to get to the electrical build today or tomorrow, so I'll update as I screw more things up

[add1ct3dd]

As above, play careful attention to parts when assembling.

Key areas for me:

* Top and bottom plates
* Arm pieces (there's 2 for each arm) - the 2 holes on either side have different distances, ensure they go the right way .

[burro breath]

Thanks for the fast reply to everyone. Im thinking about buying a better power supply since ive read of issues with voltage drops.

[hubrigant]

Well, I've got a new gotcha to look out for: when cutting the hot end wires to length, make sure to measure 8" from the FRONT of the printer, and not from the side closest to the tower they come down.

On a related note, is the recovery from cutting the power lines (black/red) too short to run a new feed, or can I solder pig tails on them to get enough length?

[Eaglezsoar]

Well, I've got a new gotcha to look out for: when cutting the hot end wires to length, make sure to measure 8" from the FRONT of the printer, and not from the side closest to the tower they come down.

On a related note, is the recovery from cutting the power lines (black/red) too short to run a new feed, or can I solder pig tails on them to get enough length?

You can solder on the pigtails but ensure to cover the connection with heat-shrink so that there is no possibility of a short.

[jram]

+1 on making sure that you measure 8" from the front of the machine. Also be sure that the top panel goes on in the correct orientation. Mine did not but I was still able to mount my ezstruder and route my filament through a hole I drilled. And yes, I would look into a new PSU before you start the build.My diablotek failed during calibration... They sent a new one within two hours of calling so I'm happy with that. They sent a Viotek but I didn't want to risk failure again so I bought a new one.
If you do decide to upgrade later, be aware that some PSUs are larger than the supplied PSU. My new PSU will not fit in the case without disassembling the bottom area. It's still hanging out the side because I haven't gotten around to doing this.

[teoman]

If I were rebuilding mine. I would change the heated bed wires to 8 Awg. The hobby shops have some multi strand silicone wire.

Might aswell get a 24 psu and an ssr while you are at it.

[geneb]

Wire that large won't even fit into the terminal block on the RAMBo.

g.

[Mac The Knife]

I had to trim a few strands off of the 12 gauge wire I used to get it to fit into the connecter. 8 gauge?