Rostock Max V2 Shutting Down on Heatup UPDATE

[Nylocke]

That large hole in the bottom is for taking the PSU in and out of the machine after its built. May or may not screw up your calibration, but you won't have to disassemble it.

[jckrieger]

That large hole in the bottom is for taking the PSU in and out of the machine after its built. May or may not screw up your calibration, but you won't have to disassemble it.

Now that's what I like to hear! I have a Coolermaster 650 watt power supply that I might install in the unit. I have ABS being delivered tomorrow and I don't know if I can wait for a replacement.

This Diablo supply is outputting 11.7 volts with no load, 11.2 volts with the hot end heater on, and 10.7 volts with both the hot end heater and the heated bed turned on. This is measured at the power connector on the Rambo board. I'm pretty sure this output doesn't meet any ATX specification.

[bot]

The power supply situation is very unfortunate. It might end up being better for SeeMeCNC to lower the cost of the kit by about $20 and allowing users to purchase their own. Some people don't seem to be as lucky as others in the PSU lottery.

[Nylocke]

Well, a good question is are they aware of the problem, and are they capable of fixing it (as in getting even better PSUs, I know they upgraded them more recently from 450W to 600W?). Honestly with the price they might have to pay for good quality ATX PSUs they might just want to change to a real PSU, something more like this? http://www.dx.com/p/y-12-25-300w-12v-25 ... IUTxIeQV0g

Only $30, the main problem is it doesn't fit nicely where the existing one goes

[jckrieger]

Last night before I went to bed I lifted the top of the base, removed the 600W Diablo power supply, installed a dual 12V rail Cooler Master 650 watt power supply I had laying around and put it all back together. One 12V rail for the bed heater and the other for everything else.

11.7V at the Rambo board with everything loaded and no more screaming or shutting down. I think this power supply was $35 after mail in rebate.

[bot]

Coolermaster makes some decent stuff. I was skeptical of the stock PSU myself, as I typically stick to high end units in my PCs, but they're in the area of $100.

[jckrieger]

Coolermaster makes some decent stuff. I was skeptical of the stock PSU myself, as I typically stick to high end units in my PCs, but they're in the area of $100.

Yeah, it's really a crap-shoot with the low dollar power supplies. It'd be nice to know which brands have 100% end of line testing to help reduce the chance of a DOA or under-performing power supply.

+1 to offering the unit without a power supply for a slight discount. This would allow builders to select a power supply with PFC or other features such as variable fan speed control in a slightly more cost effective manor.

[beilmandesign]

My Rostock Max V2 new build is held up because the p/s shuts down when either the bed or hot end heats are turned on. I am stuck until SeeMeCNC responds to my support email sent Sunday night 12/7/14. I'll let you know what they have to say.

[Mac The Knife]

Go to their homepage and use their live chat,,,, No telling how bogged down their email may be.

[jckrieger]

Go to their homepage and use their live chat,,,, No telling how bogged down their email may be.

+1. I waited for their live chat to become available and they looked up my order and shipped a new PSU in just a few minutes. Their support is very good. Everyone here recommends either giving them a call during their business hours or the chat service.

[beilmandesign]

I just called and JJ said he just brought a new p/s to shipping to send my way. Can't beat that!

[cplbob]

Sorry, been away from the board for a bit. I bought a Corsair powersupply, but I haven't installed it because, honestly, my setup is working and I don't want to jinx it. I'm running two of the DiabloTek powersupplies from SeeMeCNC. One of them powers everything but the heated bed, and the other powers the heated bed with a little assist from PSU1. My printer looks pretty ugly with an extra PSU sticking out, and her lower panels off, but I haven't had a power issue since.

[jckrieger]

You should be able to utilize a single PSU. My 650 watt unit is only capable of 18A on each 12V rail and it has no problems running both the bed and the rest of the printer. I'm going to be load testing my new Diablotek unit with a subwoofer amplifier and a big capacitor to see if it's capable of the rated power.

[beilmandesign]

Received my replacement Diablotek 600W from SeeMeCnc. It had some internal short shorts in it that I could see and repair. But still will not allow the lcd to stay on for more than a second or two.

Have a look at the image I posted here:
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=7056

Update 12/11/2014:
If you cut your main atx connector off be sure that you connect the brown wire to any orange wire. It is needed to prevent the issue I noticed in the 1st line above. JJ at SeeMeCNC alerted me to this and now all is well.

[cplbob]

You should be able to utilize a single PSU. My 650 watt unit is only capable of 18A on each 12V rail and it has no problems running both the bed and the rest of the printer. I'm going to be load testing my new Diablotek unit with a subwoofer amplifier and a big capacitor to see if it's capable of the rated power.

I know that I CAN, and that most people probably do. However, I'm only about a month into 3D printing, and my Rostock was, far and away, the most complex thing I've ever assembled. Now that I have it operational, I'm really wanting to focus more on refining and calibrating. I will eventually clean up my install, but I'm nervous about fixing what technically isn't broken.

[staticbunny]

Im not sure if I'm having the same issue, but my machine died during testing the hot end. Now it wont turn back on. I checked the fuse and it's still fine and i hear a fan when i turn it on but no light on the board orLCD. It's weird that everything was working fine and i was able to test all the stepper motors and switches, but as soon as i went to turn the temp up the machine just went blank. Is this related to the power supply or did a mis-wire something?

[Earthbound]

Im not sure if I'm having the same issue, but my machine died during testing the hot end. Now it wont turn back on. I checked the fuse and it's still fine and i hear a fan when i turn it on but no light on the board orLCD. It's weird that everything was working fine and i was able to test all the stepper motors and switches, but as soon as i went to turn the temp up the machine just went blank. Is this related to the power supply or did a mis-wire something?

Probably a wiring issue to the hot end. There are three fuse on the RAMBo. F1 (the large one) protects the heated bed. F2 (one of the little ones) protects the hot end and this fuse will blow if the hot end heater or fans are shorted.

[staticbunny]

Thanks! I'll check that when i get back home today. Would that cause it not to boot at all or allow me to connect over USB? I notice that the fan is still running when on and when I attempt to connect to upload a sketch the RX light flashes but nothing else.

Im not sure if I'm having the same issue, but my machine died during testing the hot end. Now it wont turn back on. I checked the fuse and it's still fine and i hear a fan when i turn it on but no light on the board orLCD. It's weird that everything was working fine and i was able to test all the stepper motors and switches, but as soon as i went to turn the temp up the machine just went blank. Is this related to the power supply or did a mis-wire something?

Probably a wiring issue to the hot end. There are three fuse on the RAMBo. F1 (the large one) protects the heated bed. F2 (one of the little ones) protects the hot end and this fuse will blow if the hot end heater or fans are shorted.

[beilmandesign]

I had to finally purchase a more powerful power supply: http://www.corsair.com/en-gb/cx-series- ... odular-psu
It is able to supply 62amps to the +12V. Once installed (had to mount it externally) everything worked like a charm.

I have also since upgraded to an E3D V6 due to temperature instability with the stock hot end. Since then the machine is dependable and consistent - a joy to use.

[staticbunny]

Confirmed that one of the fuses died. Couldn't tell which one till i tested it with my multi-meter. Sucks now I have to wait till I can get some shipped or find some locally. Anyone know where to find them in the SF Bay area? Radio Shack is a no go, trying frys next.

Thanks! I'll check that when i get back home today. Would that cause it not to boot at all or allow me to connect over USB? I notice that the fan is still running when on and when I attempt to connect to upload a sketch the RX light flashes but nothing else.

Im not sure if I'm having the same issue, but my machine died during testing the hot end. Now it wont turn back on. I checked the fuse and it's still fine and i hear a fan when i turn it on but no light on the board orLCD. It's weird that everything was working fine and i was able to test all the stepper motors and switches, but as soon as i went to turn the temp up the machine just went blank. Is this related to the power supply or did a mis-wire something?

Probably a wiring issue to the hot end. There are three fuse on the RAMBo. F1 (the large one) protects the heated bed. F2 (one of the little ones) protects the hot end and this fuse will blow if the hot end heater or fans are shorted.

[nitewatchman]

Static,

Sucks not to have fuses, these are really difficult to find locally.

A practical work around, UNTIL YOU CAN GET THE CORRECT NANO FUSES, is to solder the blades of an automotive fuse (like the 15A that protects the Heated Bed) to the ends of the blown Nano fuse placing the automotive fuse in parallel to the blown fuse. Not pretty but it works and still protects the Rambo circuits.

At least that is what I would do. Worst case is that you would screw up the blown fuse.

[staticbunny]

you my friend are a redneck genius. Much respect for saving my weekend! I've got some nano2's on order so I'll make sure to swap them out ASAP.

Static,

Sucks not to have fuses, these are really difficult to find locally.

A practical work around, UNTIL YOU CAN GET THE CORRECT NANO FUSES, is to solder the blades of an automotive fuse (like the 15A that protects the Heated Bed) to the ends of the blown Nano fuse placing the automotive fuse in parallel to the blown fuse. Not pretty but it works and still protects the Rambo circuits.

At least that is what I would do. Worst case is that you would screw up the blown fuse.

[nitewatchman]

Glad it worked out.

[Eaglezsoar]

I like the term "redneck genius"

[nitewatchman]

It's what I do.