Mhackney's Rostock Max
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
Very, very nice Mhackney! You sir are a true craftsman.
Do you have a link to the site you sell reels on?
Do you have a link to the site you sell reels on?
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
I have been using Slic3r for over a year. My big issue with it is every new release breaks or changes stuff that worked before, making it unpredictable. But the real reason I looked at other slicers was to get a better solution for blob/ooze prevention. Slic3r has retract but it also makes an incredible number of moves that seem really silly. It used not to do this. Cura and KISSlicer actually try to keep moves inside the part so any threading, etc are hidden. KISS has the unique wipe feature that works and is pretty fast. It also has the option to print perimeters "outside in" something that Slic3r changed for some unknown reason. There are some objects that KISS, Slic3r and Curator can't slice whereas one of the others can.
Frankly, unless you need the ability to print multiple objects or need another advanced feature, the freel version if kISS is fine. I like supporting good softer that I find useful and I do sometimes use someof these features.
The one minor annoyance is that KISS is not integrated into Repetier but that's not really an issue. I'm still learning KISS and working through a strategy for managing my various configurations. But it has a nice simple UI. I am getting much better prints with it. And the paths just seem to make more sense.
Here's the gear bearing I just finished. This is the first time I've been able to print one that actually works (and well!). That's primarily thanks to KISS since it had a logical print path and I didn't need to use retract to minimize blobing. I have a little more work to do to reduce the little stringing this part has. But, it broke free and rotated right off the plate.
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v41 ... 9506-3.jpg[/img]
Frankly, unless you need the ability to print multiple objects or need another advanced feature, the freel version if kISS is fine. I like supporting good softer that I find useful and I do sometimes use someof these features.
The one minor annoyance is that KISS is not integrated into Repetier but that's not really an issue. I'm still learning KISS and working through a strategy for managing my various configurations. But it has a nice simple UI. I am getting much better prints with it. And the paths just seem to make more sense.
Here's the gear bearing I just finished. This is the first time I've been able to print one that actually works (and well!). That's primarily thanks to KISS since it had a logical print path and I didn't need to use retract to minimize blobing. I have a little more work to do to reduce the little stringing this part has. But, it broke free and rotated right off the plate.
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v41 ... 9506-3.jpg[/img]
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
Those reels are beautiful. Also, that gear you printed is exactly the kind of capability that got me excited about 3D printing in the first place. You should post a video of it in motion, 

Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
@Av8r RC - my site is www.eclecticangler.com
@Godspeed - I'll do a video, it is a really cool thing!
@Godspeed - I'll do a video, it is a really cool thing!
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
Very nice Mhackney. Might have to get my day a reel for his birthday. He likes to fish.
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
mhackney wrote:Here's the gear bearing I just finished. This is the first time I've been able to print one that actually works (and well!). That's primarily thanks to KISS since it had a logical print path and I didn't need to use retract to minimize blobing. I have a little more work to do to reduce the little stringing this part has. But, it broke free and rotated right off the plate.
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v41 ... 9506-3.jpg[/img]
Can you post your settings of KISS you used to print that part, I want make a comparison. Please.
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
Here you go. KISSlicer settings for the Gear Bearing.
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
thank you for files
hmmm, I think I'm missing something, I used your settings, But I changed my starting G-Code to
EDIT:
I think I find an answer since I'm printing first layer on 230C and other layers on 222, machine after 1st layer is trying to wait for nozzle cooldown. In KISS i should change temp g code from m109 ( Set Extruder Temperature and Wait) to m104 ( Set Extruder Temperature). Learning everyday.
hmmm, I think I'm missing something, I used your settings, But I changed my starting G-Code to
yours:g28;
M140 S<BEDTEMP>
M190 S<BEDTEMP>
I'm starting printing laying great 1st layer, and after that machine stops completly. On the LCD status is saying IDLE. Nothing in repetier host. Any clues? I'm using repetier firmwareT<EXT+0>
M104 S<TEMP>
M190 S<BEDTEMP>
M109 S<TEMP>
EDIT:
I think I find an answer since I'm printing first layer on 230C and other layers on 222, machine after 1st layer is trying to wait for nozzle cooldown. In KISS i should change temp g code from m109 ( Set Extruder Temperature and Wait) to m104 ( Set Extruder Temperature). Learning everyday.

Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
That's odd on the starting gcode. I had changed that according to Polygonhell's post. Seems not to have stuck.
I had
G28;
M190 S<BEDTEMP>
M140 S<TEMP>
M109 S<TEMP>
I believe. The M190
I had
G28;
M190 S<BEDTEMP>
M140 S<TEMP>
M109 S<TEMP>
I believe. The M190
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
I know. I corrected my GCode You give me great starting point for kisslicer, finally I was able of printing something more complex than calibration cube. I forget to change my ABS settings,so there is too much plastic. But when its finished I put it on hex wrench, and turn it and its WORKING, IN FIRST TRY.After that I want to print Yoda and after 3 hours of printing it STOPS on layer 241. No errors in host, neither in GCode.I stopped print in host,and try to home the machine, but no response.I have to reconnect the machine and then home it.now I have cool looking desk pen holder.mhackney wrote:That's odd on the starting gcode. I had changed that according to Polygonhell's post. Seems not to have stuck.
I had
G28;
M190 S<BEDTEMP>
M140 S<TEMP>
M109 S<TEMP>
I believe. The M190

Last edited by gabrielk on Mon Mar 04, 2013 2:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
Looking good! That problem you describe sounds suspiciously similar to the problem Highcooley discovered. A bug has been filed with Repetier. It seems that communication stops for some reason. Here is the bug report and discussion: https://github.com/repetier/Repetier-Firmware/issues/72
Looks like Yoda is having open brain surgery!
Looks like Yoda is having open brain surgery!
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
- Eaglezsoar
- ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
- Posts: 7159
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2012 5:26 pm
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
Now that's a darn nice pen holder!gabrielk wrote:I know. I corrected my GCode You give me great starting point for kisslicer, finally I was able of printing Spongebob more complex than calibration cube. Iforget to change my ABS settings,so there is too much plastic. But when its finished I put it on hex wrench, and turn it and its WORKING, IN FIRST TRY.After that I want to print Yoda and after 3 hours of printing it STOPS on layer 241. No errors in host, neither in GCode.I stopped print in host,and try to home the machine, but no response.I have to reconnect the machine and then home it.now I have cool looking desk pen holder.mhackney wrote:That's odd on the starting gcode. I had changed that according to Polygonhell's post. Seems not to have stuck.
I had
G28;
M190 S<BEDTEMP>
M140 S<TEMP>
M109 S<TEMP>
I believe. The M190Again thanks for great starting point in kisslicer.
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
Did you use newest Kisslicer Beta 1.1.0c? There is a lot of new features. I taken your config files to 1.0.9. Now geared bearing could be a lot better. Sorry if I spam your topic
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
gabrielk, yes I am using the 1.1.0 beta version.The about dialog just has 1.1.0 so I don't know if it is "c" but I did just download it last week.
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
KISSlicer Rostock Bed STL Model
For those of you using KISS, it has a feature to import the printer's bed as an STL. I've created one for our beloved Rostock. It is 280mm diameter and 2mm thick with its top surface at z=0 so items sit on it properly. Set your bed size to 280mm x 280mm and load this STL. It helps laying out multiple parts and sizing things.
\
cheers,
Michael
\
cheers,
Michael
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
- Eaglezsoar
- ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
- Posts: 7159
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2012 5:26 pm
Re: KISSlicer Rostock Bed STL Model
You're not talking about actually printing this out and using it on top of the bed are you? Or is this a "virtual bed". An actual printed bed would certainly play havoc with the nice temperatures of the bed.mhackney wrote:For those of you using KISS, it has a feature to import the printer's bed as an STL. I've created one for our beloved Rostock. It is 280mm diameter and 2mm thick with its top surface at z=0 so items sit on it properly. Set your bed size to 280mm x 280mm and load this STL. It helps laying out multiple parts and sizing things.
\
cheers,
Michael
I'm a little slow sometimes so I tend to question what I do not understand (which is a lot).
Carl
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max

Here's what it looks like and the Printer tab where you enter the file path.
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
- Eaglezsoar
- ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
- Posts: 7159
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2012 5:26 pm
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
That's cool. Will it allow you to place multiple stls on the bed and arrange them also?mhackney wrote:no! It is a virtual bed - KISSlicer has a feature on the printer tab to add your bed.
Here's what it looks like and the Printer tab where you enter the file path.
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
With the PRO version yes. That is one of the PRO features. You don't have any control over positioning but you can increase the count or add completely different things.
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
Aluminum Heat Dissipator drawings
As promised, here is the post with the drawings for the aluminum heat dissipator in case you want to make your own:
Aluminum Heat Dissipator
regards,
Michael
Aluminum Heat Dissipator
regards,
Michael
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
Off topic - my other CNC stuff
I've had a couple of inquiries about my shop and other tools so I'll stick this off topic post in my build thread in case anyone is interested. The backdrop is, I run a small home-based business manufacturing fly fishing reel kits and finished reels. I am the only source for fly reel kits in the world. I manufacture 100% of the parts myself in aluminum, brass, Delrin, nickel silver and exotics like mammoth ivory and stabilized wood burls. I CNC'd all of the machinery myself. My first CNC machine was a router that I built probably about 8 or 9 years ago. Today I have:
a MicroMark X2 minimill CNC'd (more photos and build process.)
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v24 ... 2734-3.jpg[/img]
a Grizzly G0704 CNC'd. This is my workhorse now. A great machine with a big work envelope. (more photos and build process)
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v20 ... 2186-3.jpg[/img]
Both of the mills are in enclosure for the flood coolant. I am just completing a power draw bar and auto tool changer for the Grizzly. That will greatly improve my throughput.
Behind it you can see a Grizzly G0602 10x22 lathe CNC'd and I have a MicroMark minilathe that I use manually. I also have a Jet 14" metal bandsaw, a drill press, a 45 ton Hydraulic press, an antique 10 ton fly press, a 12" cube tempering oven (for heat treating and casting) and quite a bit of other stuff! And of course the H-1, and H-1.1 and Rostock MAX!
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v45 ... 3152-3.jpg[/img]
I am an active contibutor at the CNCZone Benchtop Machine forum where I've learned an incredible amount from the resident guru (and bonafide genus) Hoss.
a MicroMark X2 minimill CNC'd (more photos and build process.)
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v24 ... 2734-3.jpg[/img]
a Grizzly G0704 CNC'd. This is my workhorse now. A great machine with a big work envelope. (more photos and build process)
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v20 ... 2186-3.jpg[/img]
Both of the mills are in enclosure for the flood coolant. I am just completing a power draw bar and auto tool changer for the Grizzly. That will greatly improve my throughput.
Behind it you can see a Grizzly G0602 10x22 lathe CNC'd and I have a MicroMark minilathe that I use manually. I also have a Jet 14" metal bandsaw, a drill press, a 45 ton Hydraulic press, an antique 10 ton fly press, a 12" cube tempering oven (for heat treating and casting) and quite a bit of other stuff! And of course the H-1, and H-1.1 and Rostock MAX!
[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v45 ... 3152-3.jpg[/img]
I am an active contibutor at the CNCZone Benchtop Machine forum where I've learned an incredible amount from the resident guru (and bonafide genus) Hoss.
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
- Eaglezsoar
- ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
- Posts: 7159
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2012 5:26 pm
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
Thank you for the pictures, quite impressive! A job well done and apparently never ending.
Carl
Carl
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
That's awesome, totally jealous of your shop!!
DIY instructions/videos/hardware links:
Carbon fiber rods w/ ball joints for Rostock MAX ~$40 http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=2165
Carbon fiber rods w/ ball joints for Rostock MAX ~$40 http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=2165
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
Thanks texsc98 - it was decades in the making! I started out as a woodworker back in the 80s. In fact, you can see my Delta Unisaw in one of the photos above. I've swapped out most of my woodworking tools for metal working or dual purpose like the bandsaw due to space constraints. I can't bring myself to let go of the Unisaw though, it is so darn useful!
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
Re: Mhackney's Rostock Max
You mentioned and auto tool changer!
This is something I am currently working on my self, with little success to be honest. Could you elaborate a bit more in this catagory.
I would absolutely LOVE to get to know more about this project and/or collaborate with you on it.
This is something I am currently working on my self, with little success to be honest. Could you elaborate a bit more in this catagory.
I would absolutely LOVE to get to know more about this project and/or collaborate with you on it.
"Now you see why evil will always triumph! Because good is dumb." - Spaceballs