Rostock Max Hollow Calibration Pyramid Challenge!

[dunginhawk]

so this is using craftware... wonder what would help with the pitting...
the previous print was matter control with standard settings, 190 degrees PLA.

this time i tries 195 but standard settings in craftware more or less

any thoughts on improving?
both were at 20mm/s

[img]http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/m562/dunginhawk/9B8CC0C4-7A11-4EE4-8101-2208E18BAC76_zpsmqoxnaxj.jpg[/img]

[dunginhawk]

ok... so here is something interesting...
look at this picture I took of craftware after it sliced my project.
the layer start/end coincide really well with the print in the above post...
pretty interesting why they would do that...

[img]http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/m562/dunginhawk/Capture_zps2cab8fc8.jpg[/img]

[lightninjay]

Part of that could be due to whether or not you imported my settings.

If you did, I have my layer start and ends with a full extrusion width, so that could be the reason you see those wide gaps in the G-code. If you take a look at the setting in the screenshot below, this will affect the overlap of your extrusion and help to eliminate some surface blobbing if any should occur at layer start and finishes.

If you lower this number, those gaps should close up.

[dunginhawk]

so yes, i am using your import.
so your using 1.0 for your Perimeter gap setting why? just curious, did you have bubbles or bulging when using .5?
what setting would you suggest I use for day to day printing? its interesting you have that set the way you do, are you having any such issues?

[lightninjay]

I get so many different kinds of PLA, that I'm a bad boy and don't usually bother to measure my filament width consistency, choosing just to set my filament width to 1.75mm...

Some filament was giving me small little tick marks at the perimeter gap, so I had widened the gap, never readjusting the setting after that particular print, because I've been printing cello parts lately and don't mind minor surface issues.

As far as day to day printing goes, it's definitely going to be filament based. You will need to check through all the settings for each filament roll you use.

Member MHackney actually does a VERY good job of this in his KISSlicer configs, if you've come across his color settings for different kinds of filament in your traversing these forums.

Just a small example of the way he organizes his settings:

He does it by Color and Type of plastic, which I find as a useful practice across all slicers.

MHackneyKISS.jpg (34.57 KiB) Viewed 16104 times

Basically, treat each color and type of filament as if it is a completely different beast than any you've ever printed with before, while still maintaining that you think it will melt somewhere around 200*C if it's "PLA" and 235*C if it's "ABS"

[dunginhawk]

gotcha... i never measure my filament either... strangely enough, i use Hatchbox for PLA and ABS exclusively (so far) and its fantastic filament by all accounts... Its very cheap though. IM happy with it..
ill see how this one looks when its done

EDIT.... So the latest print was ok on the outside, fixing that EW setting worked... still having a bit of roughness on the inside of the pyramid but the outside looks great... ill keep working at it

[lightninjay]

Lol, sorry, I'm big on editing posts in order to help tidy up forums and make later re-reading of posts more informational, just in case you missed my earlier fixes.

[thenewguy]

Round 2 over a year later

Green ABS!
Hot end 230c
Bed 98c

Speed
Loops 10mm/s
Solid 14mm/s
Sparse 30mm/s

Infill 33.3%
Extrusion width .44
Infill extrusion width .44
Seam hiding 1.0
Jitter 175
Wipe/destring on
Loops 3
Stacked sparse 1

4 prime/4 suck/5 wipe
Speed 55
Min jump 1.5
Trigger 5
Min layers 25
Zlift 1

Best ABS pyramid???

[Khalid Khattak]

Hmmm... here is mine 205C Nozzle 60C heated bed, white glue stick ... the machine is not calibrated for dimensions yet... light green PLA....i think it took 45minutes to complete... seeing others i think mine is not that good...

[techstorage]

I downloaded the .stl and will try this out in-between my current pint jobs. 13 hours to go for an opening. I had a lot of stringing on my last print from yesterday, so I look forward to learning some setting tricks from this thread.

[teri1337]

Here's my first attempt. Using translucent blue PLA filament at 202C and sliced with MatterSlice default settings printing at full speed. Result is some very thin stringing between some of the poles and a sharp point at the top, but otherwise it looks pretty good. I may try another with the heat turned down a hair and again using Cura. I'll post results if I see anything better.

[Khalid Khattak]

teri very good results... i will check the same pyramid after leveling and calibration of my bed plate after modification.

[hax0red]

Hmmm... here is mine 205C Nozzle 60C heated bed, white glue stick ... the machine is not calibrated for dimensions yet... light green PLA....i think it took 45minutes to complete... seeing others i think mine is not that good...

Not a bad start but there is still room for improvement. Good news is your machine is capable it's just about learning your slicing software and ensuring your printer is fully calibrated. I make improvements everyday and honestly it's the part that I enjoy the most. Today I started using Kapton tape with my heated bed and found my ABS prints have drastically improved due to better adhesion:


[img]http://i62.tinypic.com/i4omqg.jpg[/img]

Sorry for the picture quality it's tough to take pictures with my phone while part is still on the print bed. This is really my first decent pyramid using ABS but still needs tuning IMO. Setup: 3D Solutech ABS "Metal Silver" Filament sliced with Simplify3D, 0.2 layers, 0 Infill, 225C hot end temp, 4.9 retract(little too much), 20mm/second print speed, 4 shells and fan set to 75% after first 5 layers but I plan to use 100% fan next time.

[dadams]

Hey All,
New member here.
I've been printing for about a month with decent results (i think) and decided to give a go at the pyramid.
This is my second try at the pyramid (first one was pretty bad)
I was wondering if i could get some suggestions and tips to get it better.
I'm getting some pretty bad "Z Scars" from where the extruder changes layers
Also some blobs on the outside and very bad blobs on the inside of the columns.
Here are the settings i used (on stock Rostock Max V2)


1.75mm SeeMeeCNC ABS
Sliced in Slic3r

Temps:
Extruder 225
Bead 85

0.2 layer height
0 infill
4 Perimeters
2 bottom layers
0 top layers
3 mm retraction at 100 mm/s
0.25 Z lift
Retract on layer change: TRUE
Layer fan at 100% after 5 layers
Print speed: 30 mm/s
1st layer speed: 15 mm/s
Travel speed: 250 mm/s
1st layer width: 0.6
Extrusion width: 0.5 (stock nozzle)

Appreciate any help,
Thanks!

[miglo]

Brand new "Giant" Rostock Max V2 (modded for a bigger z build area). These images don't do the shape justice! I love this thing!

I came from using a 2yr+ mendelmax 2 beta.

Slicer is Simplify3D
pla extruder @ 210, bed @ 60
layer height 0.15mm
top solid layers 4
bottom solid layers 4
outline/perim shells 3
30% infill
default print speed 70 mm/sec
outline underspeed 50%
solid infill underspeed 80%
xy movement 150 mm/sec
z movement 100 mm/sec
first layer speed 25%

retraction 2.00 mm
ret speed 33.33 mm/sec

total print time 57 mins
[img]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-kggp ... C_0213.JPG[/img]
[img]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-2vY5 ... C_0215.JPG[/img]

Increased retraction to 2.5mm to help with the stringy bridging.
Decreased top, bottom and perimeter layers to 2
15% infill
Increased default speed to 150 mm/s
xy and z movements are set to same as default speed @ 150mm/s
total print time 27 mins
[img]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ZDyt ... C_0217.JPG[/img]
[img]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-bQov ... C_0225.JPG[/img]

Increased default speed to 200 mm/sec
You can see the extruder struggling to melt the plastic fast enough for the top layer
Total print time 22 mins
[img]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-atSp ... C_0226.JPG[/img]
[img]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-88nI ... C_0231.JPG[/img]

Increased default speed to 250 mm/sec
compensated with increased temp to 220c
this helped with the layers
total print time 18mins
[img]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-yEZ_ ... C_0235.JPG[/img]
[img]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-wtUj ... C_0236.JPG[/img]

[markwhelan]

Hmmm... here is mine 205C Nozzle 60C heated bed, white glue stick ... the machine is not calibrated for dimensions yet... light green PLA....i think it took 45minutes to complete... seeing others i think mine is not that good...

Not a bad start but there is still room for improvement. Good news is your machine is capable it's just about learning your slicing software and ensuring your printer is fully calibrated. I make improvements everyday and honestly it's the part that I enjoy the most. Today I started using Kapton tape with my heated bed and found my ABS prints have drastically improved due to better adhesion:


[img]http://i62.tinypic.com/i4omqg.jpg[/img]

Sorry for the picture quality it's tough to take pictures with my phone while part is still on the print bed. This is really my first decent pyramid using ABS but still needs tuning IMO. Setup: 3D Solutech ABS "Metal Silver" Filament sliced with Simplify3D, 0.2 layers, 0 Infill, 225C hot end temp, 4.9 retract(little too much), 20mm/second print speed, 4 shells and fan set to 75% after first 5 layers but I plan to use 100% fan next time.

I never though about using a fan for ABS!

[dajay23D]

Here's mine using MatterControl with Slic3r.

I feel like it actually looks better in pictures. The underside needs improvement, not sure how I can do that, yet. Still playing w/ the settings.

MatterHackers ABS
0 Z-lift
150 mm/s travel speed
2 perimeters
225C nozzle temp
90C bed temp
.2mm layer height

[img]https://farm1.staticflickr.com/411/1950 ... 96cb_z.jpg[/img]

[img]https://farm1.staticflickr.com/341/1907 ... d4cc_z.jpg[/img]

[img]https://farm1.staticflickr.com/440/1950 ... ecbc_z.jpg[/img]

[clytle374]

After fighting with matter control for over a month I switched to slic3r. 3 days in here are my results. Left matter slice, right stand alone slic3r. I switched because MS would only retract randomly, and was always dragging the nozzle across parts.