Alternative Heated Enclosure for Rostock MAX

[RegB]

Those are the trick trucks from trick laser (Brian V).
Looks like ~$90 to $100 by the time you get all the new bearings, spacers, nuts and bolts, plus shipping.
It is a "definite maybe" for me right now, not that I don't have the money, but it is a 10% (of the WHOLE printer kit) upgrade.

[0110-m-p]

I saw some replacement aluminum carriages on here recently, gonna look into those b'coz I'm too lazy to design & build something myself (-:

Probably doesn't overcome the acetal covers & high temps issue though... oh well, I certainly don't want to hear metal rollers on metal towers.

Those are the trick trucks from trick laser (Brian V).
Looks like ~$90 to $100 by the time you get all the new bearings, spacers, nuts and bolts, plus shipping.
It is a "definite maybe" for me right now, not that I don't have the money, but it is a 10% (of the WHOLE printer kit) upgrade.

Did you just respond to your own post?...Anyway, the trick trucks use wheels made of Delrin, which is just a trade name for acetal. The one plus is that they are thicker and probably won't deform quite as easily as the stock bearing covers.

Another option is the polycarbonate "extreme" wheels that OpenBuilds sells. They probably won't run nearly as smooth as the Delrin, but will handle significantly higher temperatures.

[JFettig]

How much heat is required to bring the temp to at least 40C? I was thinking about grabbing a couple 100W ceramic reptile heaters and build an enclosure if that is the only way I can get my tall ABS prints to work.

I found these low profile heaters on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRW2NYO/ref ... IAGM&psc=1
Temperature controllers are available for pretty cheap. I'd probably add a blower fan and duct to recirculate the heat from the top to the bottom.

[Eaglezsoar]

Note that the bulbs you linked are 220V and are not normally useful in the USA.

[JFettig]

Good catch! There are quite a few of that variety but they're all physically larger than those.

[bot]

I've heard that by simply enclosing the entire build area, the heated bed can heat the ambient temperature to close to 50*C

That's only what I remember hearing... so take that for what it's worth.

[JFettig]

The OP mentioned only 40C with the addition of his IR heater and space heater, I imagine the heat bed can do a decent job of bringing it up a little bit but not sure how much to expect out of it.

As best I can see, those ceramic bulbs aren't sold in the USA at 120v, glad Eaglezsoar pointed that out. I might try a small space heater with a temperature controller.

[bot]

True, I see that now. I believe I had heard this from people who built fully sealed enclosures around their cartesian printers. The OP's enclosure is not sealed at all, and the top is where all the heat would escape.

[JFettig]

I'm thinking about ordering some of this and some acrylic or polycarb sheets: http://www.popsuperstore.com/ProductDet ... 1&CartID=1

That is the best price I could find for such a thing. I will design the brackets differently than in this thread and have the polycarb sit into slots in the bottom and top, and fill all the holes in the top of the enclosure. I'll get it all designed up and post it up.

[bot]

Neat. Those should insulate quite well, I'd imagine.

[Mac The Knife]

Velcro.

[teoman]

What I would/ will do once parts arrive is put a peltier device and heatsink + fan on to the ezstruder motor. So at least i am doing something useful with the power.

[Eaglezsoar]

What I would/ will do once parts arrive is put a peltier device and heatsink + fan on to the ezstruder motor. So at least i am doing something useful with the power.

Perhaps you could send us some pictures and maybe a quick how-to on what you accomplished. This sounds like something that could benefit a large number of our members.

[JFettig]

How hot does the heat sink of a hot end really get(IE E3D)? A peltier could chill it to the point where its condensing moisture, then how would you control the temperature of the inside of the chamber using the peltier while keeping it cool? The new Cyclops has a flat back where someone could slap a peltier and heatsink on but I am not convinced its a good idea.

One thing to note - shower curtain plus heatsinks on 85C build plate are giving me a 32C temp inside the build chamber.

[Tincho85]

I love the idea of the heated chamber + IR lamp!
Definitely a mod I'm going to do.

Thanks for sharing Raymond.
Martin

[tvandijck]

I've been trying to get this enclosure on my Max V2, but even the modified version posted earlier wasn't a good fit in my case (maybe a slightly modified revision, or whatnot).
So I contacted OP and got the original design files, and modified the top mount plate to fit.

I'm not really finished yet, but in the picture you can see how I mounted things, and instead of plexiglass, I'm using MDF particle board for now.

I'd like to have it all laser cut with a somewhat stronger material eventually, and simply have a glass door on the front side. The enclosure parts were my first prints on this machine, so it's been a great learning experience designing the modified parts, and working with the heat inserts etc..

FWIW, it's a really tight fit around the top tower mount, so if you do print these it'll need a little bit of 'willpower'

[JohnnyDude]

I've been trying to get this enclosure on my Max V2, but even the modified version posted earlier wasn't a good fit in my case (maybe a slightly modified revision, or whatnot).
So I contacted OP and got the original design files, and modified the top mount plate to fit.

I'm not really finished yet, but in the picture you can see how I mounted things, and instead of plexiglass, I'm using MDF particle board for now.

top view.jpg

I'd like to have it all laser cut with a somewhat stronger material eventually, and simply have a glass door on the front side. The enclosure parts were my first prints on this machine, so it's been a great learning experience designing the modified parts, and working with the heat inserts etc..

FWIW, it's a really tight fit around the top tower mount, so if you do print these it'll need a little bit of 'willpower'

It sounds like I'm likely going to run into whatever you have. I've got a v2 as well. I've already printed the "v2 variant" top brackets by mlapaglia, but I haven't bought the panels yet. Do you mind elaborating on what didn't fit properly? It sounds like I'll want to know before I about cutting the panels.

[JohnnyDude]

Sorry if I've missed it, but what are the dimensions for the panels in this design?

[rymnd]

Hey! Haven't checked this thread in the longest time. Thought I'd update on the final iteration of the enclosure I ended up sticking with, especially since now I'm thinking of taking down a big part of it for another mod.

The small and big panels are 4" and 14.5" wide, respectively. Height is determined by the height of your Rostock.

Some photos here: http://imgur.com/a/dTvC7

I can also provide more pictures/details if requested.

I'm now running both the IR lamp and the small space heater. Mostly because, why not? Also, (I'm not very knowledgeable about types of heating) I was a bit worried that the IR lamp was making surfaces heat up but not actually affecting the ambient as much as the thermocouple was reporting. I added an enclosure with air vents for the space heater so that I'm not losing as much heat as before, and I have an additional set of vents on the inside to help spread the heat around, instead of just blowing straight ahead. I have no clue if it's better, but it made sense at the time. The interior vents need to be printed at 100% to prevent warping from the heater's airflow.

I'm still using the acrylic panes with minimal to no sealing at the cracks. This is purely for vanity reasons, so if you're serious about a heated enclosure, use material that's actually insulating. I think plenty of people in this thread have pointed that out. I'm holding the front door closed with a magnet. An actual latch would be better. During homing, the bowden tube can sometimes pop the door open, which is a bit annoying.

My printer runs in a room with ambient temperature 21C (70F). My heated bed struggles to get above 92-95C, so I usually run it at around 87C. With just the heated bed running and the door closed, the interior enclosure gets up to about 30-32C. With the heater on, I can get up to 39-40C with the door closed. It drops pretty quickly down to 30-32C with the door open. With both the IR lamp and the heater running, I get up to 47-50C usually within 10min. Granted, according to my thermocouple, I could get up to 47C before with just the IR lamp, just not as fast. The temperature will hold steady at around 39C even with the door open.

As stated before, I have both the IR lamp and the heater connected to an STC-1000 temperature controller, which is a pretty standard and cheap temperature controller, mostly used for home brewing. I don't let it go higher than 47C because I've had issues with my e3d v6 hotend in the past. I absolutely need their stock 40mmx40mm fan running at full speed to prevent clogging. A smaller 25mmx25mm fan wasn't cutting it at all. However, I should also point out that my fan for the hotend isn't placed optimally. It's a bit higher than it's supposed to be due to my hotend setup. I really like how my printer's behaving right now, so I haven't played around with pushing the enclosure temperature higher. Also, I'm thinking of going back to the Jhead, since I'm not doing much printing with nylon or other higher temperature thermoplastics.

[BONE]

I'm thinking about ordering some of this and some acrylic or polycarb sheets: http://www.popsuperstore.com/ProductDet ... 1&CartID=1

That is the best price I could find for such a thing. I will design the brackets differently than in this thread and have the polycarb sit into slots in the bottom and top, and fill all the holes in the top of the enclosure. I'll get it all designed up and post it up.

Good find. I think I'm going to order some for the TAZ4 enclosure I'm working on. I should have some left over for the MAX.

[JFettig]

Here is another source: http://www.ffr.com/sg-supergrip-hinged-panel-former

My enclosure here: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=7149

[cyber.shifter]

Sorry if I missed the answer to this question, but are those brass threadserts set into the bracket for the screws? I kinda skipped over the posts talking about the arm/hotend mount upgrades.

[stonewater]

I am wondering if you have the .STL for those tensioners.

Tom X

[rymnd]

Sorry if I missed the answer to this question, but are those brass threadserts set into the bracket for the screws? I kinda skipped over the posts talking about the arm/hotend mount upgrades.

Yes, 1/4-20 heat-set inserts from McMaster (http://www.mcmaster.com/#93365a160/=x78n32). Since they're so big, I found it easier to heat them up with a heat gun and then pressing them into the ABS instead of using a soldering iron directly.

I am wondering if you have the .STL for those tensioners.

Tom X

I laser cut the panels for the tensioners. Files attached. You'll also need a standoff and/or the appropriate sized bolts to make it work like I have it. I think it only works with the V1, since the V2 has a different top.

[Aflac]

Has anyone tried rymnd's brackets on a trick laser max metal frame?