print bot Vs rockstock Max

[Vallick]

I wanna get the Rostock max but i dont wanna spend 1000 on a machine that takes months to calibrate and still doesn't work properly witch seems to be the case in these forums

So am i better off getting a printer bot lc or plus instead of the rockstock Max anyone own Both . How hard is it to calibrate the plus compared to the Max and and does it produce high end prints

can i see a print using full scale from the MAX it looks and sounds great but does it work properly. Looking at these forums everyone seems to be a Noob PLA needs a .4mm nozel. The Max comes with .5mm this is why PLA Jams .How come seemecnc hasnt properly adressed this issue and alot of people are at a road block collecting dust on there machine. I was gonna buy the max but after reading the forums simple question aren't being answered properly

Its just seems like all confusion, i bought a machine that doesn't print properly. oh thats ok you need to calibrate for the next ten years WTF??? ya its a great 3d printer im still calibrating same story over and over again i spent 1000 it doesn't work but its great. Has anyone gotten the Max to print high end quality full scale prints and how long did it take you and how come i cant just download your settings for calibration. I dont understand the big deal with the calibration and why you cant just download calibration setting from seemecnc. calibration takes years and the company that provides the product should be given us proper settings for download or something whats the deal with all this confusion. The confusion on the PLA Nozel is pathetic making me not want to get a MAX. everyone that bought this must be producing inconstant prints

so what printer is going to give me high end quality prints that i can leave the room without worrying??? i just dont wanna waste 1000 for the coolest looking 3d printer with upgradalbe dual hotends and extruders and the prints come out like crap

[cambo3d]

looks like you already made up your mind vallick. what more do you want someone to tell you? If that's what you already think of the machine.

edit: there are other alternatives. http://www.tricklaser.com/

[Vallick]

looks like you already made up your mind vallick. what more do you want someone to tell you? If that's what you already think of the machine.

Please prove me wrong any one have pics of your prints that come close to full scale 1300 in² of build volume.

i can only find this close to full scale

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TPWbcnS6nY0

Has a regular nobody noob gotten the max to produce prints like this and how come there is only one video. Yoda full scale hello

i wanna make action figures every time i get up in the morning can the max do this or is it a shame show because it takes different calibration for different objects and takes a year to get the print to come out properly

HELP! my problem is i really want to buy the Max but clearly its a pile of shit unless i see visual evidence that its not a pile of shit prints that come close to full scale 1300 in² of build volume

[mhackney]

Folks, please do not further engage with this individual unless he has something positive to share or say. I have issued him/her an administrator warning.
Regards,
Michael

[MorbidSlowBurn]

Vallick,

The Rostock Max along with many other 3D printers, I still consider development projects. Very few options out there are turn key with large volume unless you are willing to spend $100k for an industrial version.

When it comes to calibrating the prints there are a lot of factors to consider that I am still learning myself and there is no one source guide. Setting up the mechanical portion of the Rostock has been pretty straight forward for me but that could be my engineering background.

When it comes to getting a high end quality prints there are a bunch of factors that play into the print quality and most printers will have the same challenges. Not all filaments will print under the same settings. Even different colors of the same material from the same manufacture may require different settings. Also the environment may play into the print. Some materials are hygro-scopic and will absorb moisture from the air which will impact printing.

Another factor is the speed and size of the object you intend to print. Larger objects have time for the previous layer to cool but can suffer from lifting from the build plate due to material shrinking as it cools. There are methods to combat this and it is dependant on the geometry of the object. Smaller object can suffer from heat build up where the previous layer hasn't had time to solidify prior to the next layer being printed. This can cause blobbing and actual collapse of thin walls.

All of these factors you can learn from and save different "styles" in your slicer software.

I am only about 3 weeks into printing so I don't have the experitise that others on the forums have but I do see significant improvement in each of my prints as I use a methodical approach to determining print settings.

[geneb]

If you want a turnkey printer that only requires you have a heartbeat to operate, go see 3D Systems or Stratasys(sp).

The following is a 1:1 scale replica of the flight grip found in the Supermarine Spitfire Mk V fighter. It took 11 hours to print. .2 print layer, sliced with KisSlicer.

[img]http://www.simpits.org/geneb/wp-content ... grip-1.jpg[/img]

That model is about 19cm tall.

Also, it would help you IMMENSELY if you were to acquire knowledge of this thing called "grammar".

g.

[aehM_Key]

(@geneb: You're printing directly on aluminium. With hairspray? Btw: is the filament rubbing on the extruder support spacer? Mine is running through one of the holes.)

[mhackney]

@geneb - that is really cool! Quite the print.

@gentlemen - I think it is obvious that this poster is a troll. I sent him a PM with no response, he came, posted a few worthless posts in a few forums, it is obvious he has done little or no research. I suggest we just abandon this thread and post cool photos like the flight grip in another thread!

cheers,
Michael

[geneb]

@aehM_Key: Yeah, it rubs on the cross piece, but there's not enough drag to cause any issues. I did print directly to the aluminum, but I'm thinking of putting the glass on top. Printing with rafts cured an adhesion problem I had, but now I have to use a razor scraper to get the prints off the bed, and if you're not perfectly parallel with the bed, you'll gouge the metal.

g.

[rs50pilot]

Geneb
What is that circle off to thr right? Is that a wipe area or a skirt?

[geneb]

It was a raft section that KisSlicer decided to put there. No clue why.

g.

[kirbymills]

movements not flat, hotend oozes & jams with pla, I have .012 raise of hot end out on the edges, so unless you lay down a shit load of plastic for your first layer - it won't print large diameters. It makes that first layer a bitch. Heat bed is hot in the middle and is 20 deg c cooler on out parts, I use glass on bed. It seems to come out of calibration easily ( Im guessing vibration ). The Rambo board is good. The power supply will shut down if you turn hotend & bed to 100% . During program the bed backs down to about 30%, so it's not that big of a issue. I use a dial indicator, so maybe I'm too picky. John won't refund my money so, thats that. Mine does print now, I just had to modify alot of things. You can buy mine if you want. [email protected]

[geneb]

You could always try properly calibrating it ("movements not flat" is a huge indication that you've not done this) and then see how well it works. With Orange Menace (stock hot end) I haven't had a jam in over 190 hours of printing with PLA. Are you running a fan on the PEEK section?

g.

[kbob]

Vallick, yours is a valid question. Please keep in mind that the people who post in this forum greatly overrepresent two groups. Those who can't get their printers to work come here to get help. Those who can't stop tinkering with their printers come here to discuss their tinkering.

I started getting reasonable prints out of my printer within a couple of days of finishing assembly. I couldn't use the whole bed area, and since I'm one of the tinkerers (see my build log if you don't believe me (-: ), I nearly rebuilt the whole printer to learn what i could do to optimize it.

Right now I have a 99.3% stock printer. My mods are limited to: better power switch, better power supply, some silicone tape around the hot end, and a fan shroud around the cold end. I can use the whole bed. I can use the whole volume. Here is a PrettyTron 7000 scaled by 280% that I printed a couple of days ago. It took a little over seven hours. It's 332 mm tall, 264 mm wide. (13.07 by 10.38 inches)

I sure don't want to see the UglyTron!

You are correct that buying a Rostock MAX is risky. It might not work. It might work but not meet your expectations. It might sidetrack you from printing useful widgets into a new hobby of playing with your printer. (That last bit happened to me.) If you're looking to get some widgets printed and completely uninterested in learning about printers, this is not your printer.

Somebody suggested a Stratasys. I'll also throw out the M*kerBot Replicators as turnkey, well supported printers.

[geneb]

I wouldn't wish a makerbot on that guy from NZ.

If you want a good, well supported cartesian printer, go get a LulzBot TAZ. I have one and it's a very good printer - 100% open source too. (It also uses the RAMBo controller)

g.