Desert Extrusions Nylon

[MrPTrog]

Uncleaned part still on th plate

So I read the entire "weed trimmer" line thread several times and gleaned a lot of useful info. I am making beautiful blue prints with it. I love the stuff. Cost per pound is very reasonable. Yes you have to dry it and keep it dry, but these forums gave me all the knowledge I needed for that.
Only problem is, did I mention it is blue. Unlike Cope413, I don't see me cncing out 30 pounds of the stuff all in blue.
For those unfamiliar with the topic, blue is the color code for .065 inch trimmer line.
My whole reason for this post is to get enough people exited about nylon that we can create enough of a market to make it viable for Desert Extrusion to extrude some more colors including natural.

[DavidF]

Damn those are some good looking prints, would you mind divulging your settings and nozzle and such?

[Captain Starfish]

i'm using some purple crappy stuff off fleaBay for the moment whilst I await my first Amazon filament delivery. When I get that I will start trying to dial it in properly. This stuff I'm using at the moment is glass filled which makes an interesting finish but jeez I like it.

Sticks to the bed a million times better than ABS, even on big prints.

Strong, flexible prints.

Doesn't smell like ABS.

Doesn't snap like PLA.

Loving it. Would be interested in laying hands on a proper white (I'm a little over the natural) and a black if they ever came up at an "ABS or cheaper" price, being sensitive of shipping costs to Western Australia.

[MrPTrog]

Dear Captain Starfish, I laugh every time I see your avatar. Somebody must love you a lot to bake you that cake.

[MrPTrog]

Damn those are some good looking prints, would you mind divulging your settings and nozzle and such?

I'm at work today but I promise settings and pictures of my dry box setup tomorrow.

[Captain Starfish]

I'll be honest, I ripped a photo of someone's cake off the interwebz and photoshopped the mankini onto it years ago.

My dear lady would probably bake me such a cake if I asked for it though... hmmm, birthday in a couple weeks

Back on topic. Still waiting for my amazon bloo.

[bdjohns1]

Damn those are some good looking prints, would you mind divulging your settings and nozzle and such?

I'm at work today but I promise settings and pictures of my dry box setup tomorrow.

Also, what are you printing on? Looks like a sheet of PEI based on the yellowish tinge, but wasn't sure.

[Nylocke]

Probably a sheet of Garolite. Nylon sticks nicely to it.

[Mac The Knife]

Looks like Kapton to me.

[MrPTrog]

Damn those are some good looking prints, would you mind divulging your settings and nozzle and such?

TRIMMER NYLON

260C Extruder
80C Bed (I am currently using 75C for the bed per Cope413 settings.)
gluestick (UHU because I had some.)
E3D Hot end
.4 mm nozzle
.2 - .4 mm layers (rook was .2 wheels were done at .2 .3 and .4)
6mm retract eliminates just about all of the spiderwebbing. COPE413 uses 12mm if I remember right. He uses a larger nozzle so that makes sense.)

If you need anything out of my slic3r settings, let me know.


Let them hydrate. Nylon gets tougher after it absorbs water. One of our injection molding techs told me several stories about his experiences. At one of his former jobs they would "simmer" parts at 90C for an hour. Living in Florida I just leave them on the back porch if strength is a concern.

[MrPTrog]

Looks like Kapton to me.

Kapton tape is on the flip side of the glass. I have UHU gluestick on the top.

[MrPTrog]

So we bought these really nice reusable bottles made by Aladdin. They unscrew at the bottom of the top bell for cleaning/putting ice in. The problem was the center posts of the caps crack and get pulled down the neck of the bottle. I.E. The silver cap. Teal colored cap is cracked also.
Hmmm.... Print Challenge!
Drafted in Autodesk Inventor.
White Cap is Taulman 618. I figure if it is safe for human implantation it is probably safe for a bottle cap.
Blue cap is Desert Extrusion blue. No claims of human safety here but dang it prints nice.

[geneb]

Keep in mind that FDM printed things are food safe, ONCE. Bacteria can lurk in the spaces between the layers and once exposed to food/water/etc. it's no longer considered "food safe".

g.

[bdjohns1]

Keep in mind that FDM printed things are food safe, ONCE. Bacteria can lurk in the spaces between the layers and once exposed to food/water/etc. it's no longer considered "food safe".

If you print with enough perimeters to ensure a good wall, then finish with your method of choice (chemical or abrasive) to an acceptably smooth surface finish, it should be reasonably safe for personal use. If I finished a part through 400/600-grit abrasive and I was confident it was truly watertight (so nothing got into the infilled regions), I'd be OK putting a cap on my kids' water bottles.

(wearing my day job hat (technically, hairnet then hardhat) - manufacturing engineer at a big food company, so I'm familiar with principles of sanitary design)

[MrPTrog]

Keep in mind that FDM printed things are food safe, ONCE. Bacteria can lurk in the spaces between the layers and once exposed to food/water/etc. it's no longer considered "food safe".

g.

I'm not going to argue with you about that. I was making really nice 5 micron filter caps with slic3r. Switched to cura and the parts are as solid as FDM can make them. Still I'm sure there will still be voids.

[Eric]

Keep in mind that FDM printed things are food safe, ONCE. Bacteria can lurk in the spaces between the layers and once exposed to food/water/etc. it's no longer considered "food safe".

g.

Not even once, unless you're printing with material that was certified food-safe by the manufacturer. Who knows what contaminants are lurking in that plastic that are irrelevant when the plastic is used for it's intended purpose.

Here's a link I have bookmarked about food safety: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,164077,168351

Of course it's still up to you about personal use. You only have to worry about legal consequences if someone else gets sick.

[BenTheRighteous]

My whole reason for this post is to get enough people exited about nylon that we can create enough of a market to make it viable for Desert Extrusion to extrude some more colors including natural.

Sign me up! I am about to make my foray into printing with trimmer line. Is this stuff the desert extrusion nylon you're all talking about?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003VPAEL ... PDKIKX0DER

[jckrieger]

My whole reason for this post is to get enough people exited about nylon that we can create enough of a market to make it viable for Desert Extrusion to extrude some more colors including natural.

Sign me up! I am about to make my foray into printing with trimmer line. Is this stuff the desert extrusion nylon you're all talking about?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003VPAEL ... PDKIKX0DER

That's the stuff I picked up. I hope to print my first part with it tomorrow. Since I have the stock hot end, I'll be trying to print very slowly at 240-245C.

[Toysrme]

I also use this printer line. Get it off Amazon from Maxpower.

Works amazing, but is very wet. Standard procedure for drying hydroscopic items should be used.
(Bake in an oven for a very long time) It comes on a nice big spool and is not tangled. Be careful about unwinding, the sides of the spool are not large flanges like 3D printer spools.
I use a 3/8" dowel to hold it up (Offset holes drilled high into the stock mount. The angle keeps spools from sliding off & the dowel is less friction than the stock square edged parts. No idea why they dont use this method stock?)

It's practically the cheapest thing you can regularly print with. 3lbs of nylon for $22usd and free shipping if you order at least two of them.



i get it to stick on my v2 with purple glue stick at 60-70c just fine. dangerously so at times, so what i do now is treat it like ABS. i have kapton tape across my glass with gluestick on that. ABS & PVA have tenacious grip. if i feel like its strong enough to crack the glass i simply remove the kapton tape from the glass