Glass Adhesion FIXED

[gajtguy]

Hi Guys/Gals,

I printed a test "number 2" last night and it held on to the bed so tight I gave up and went to bed to allow the machine to cool down. Well this morning the print was ready to come off, but it took some glass with it! LOL I've never had this happen before. Kind of funny, but now the print has dangerous glass attached to the back side.

This has to do with the ABS slurry I had on the glass. That stuff works well! Plus I just readjusted the print head above the glass. Maybe I made it too close or something.

Oh well. Always learning....

Enjoy

[Captain Starfish]

Hah no lifting corners there!

Been there, done that, just not on quite such an epic scale.

Flip the glass to keep you going, dilute your slurry a little and order another plate

A little frustrating, isn't it?

[BenTheRighteous]

Yep, happened to me as well. I recommend finding mhackney's PEI thread and doing that mod. I get perfect adhesion practically every time without fussing with glue or such (and no chance of glass breakage either). Definitely worth it!

[KAS]

It's amazing the glass doesn't shatter when that happens.

[gajtguy]

haha, I didn't even think of flipping it over. Good tip.. I might as well buy a couple and have them "in stock".

I guess this is what you call 'dialing it in'.. lol Before it didn't stick, and now it's too much. oh well..

[Captain Starfish]

I bought four new ones thinking I'd eventually go through them but since got things a little better lined up in terms of materials and going strong on the second one.

DON'T be tempted to cheap out on float glass or mirrors. Pay the bucks, get the borosilicate aka pyrex glass or you will find them shattering and not liking thermal spikes at all. My cheap mirror glass substitute self destructed with nothing on it the first time I heated it up.

Now I'm playing with garolite, aka a large single sided copper clad sheet of PCB from an electronics shop cut to circle and with a bunch of holes in it. Mixed results, yet to try it with nylon.

[Gr8Scott]

Will Pyroglass do the same thing? That is what I use.

[Captain Starfish]

Pyroglass is a brand name, sounds like a ripoff of Pyrex and it's all borosilicate. Useful because the thermal expansion coefficient is so small, means hot spots don't expand (relative to the rest of the piece) so much that they fail mechanically.

[bot]

I use a 12" octagonal mirror I picked up at michael's for $10. It's been working at 100 degrees for ABS all week long. At 60 too, for PLA. Flat as the boro ever was.

[Durandal]

I use Uhu glue stick on my glass, I had a large surface area Nylon print stick so well to it that it pulled out a large chip, but other than that it's been going strong the last 480 hours like that. Works great for ABS too.

[jlmccuan]

Hairspray works great for our 2 MAX's using PLA, ABS, Taulman T-Glase and 910.

[K.E.N.]

Howdy, I have been using Suave max hold hair spray for abs and pla projects, used to bottle it for 15 years, if you want to know, the propellant is unscented propane and alcohol is the thinner that keeps the resins soft until applied, it is water soluble, so just take the glass off and run under water for about a minute, dry and recoat for the next project, takes about 3 minutes to dry if you do not make it runny. If you get a pla print that does not want to come off, just take the glass off the printer and set in water for about 5 minutes, it should slide off then. Have fun.

[gchristopher]

...I recommend finding mhackney's PEI thread and doing that mod. ...

Seconded. I'm glad I went through six months of coating my surface with various adhesion-helping goop, so I can appreciate just how much work I'm not doing now that the print surface is PEI. (for ABS)

[briankb]

a couple of links to the referred article http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=7452