Redneck Engineering T Glase with Budaschnozzle

[TFMike]

The lulzbot taz 3 comes with a nifty little nozzle that actually allows one to make custom sizes for it using 80 cent 10mm cap nuts from the hardware store. I tried printing t glase using a .4, .5 and .8 mm nozzle but I couldn't get around the problems of the multiple walls causing cloudiness - so what did I do?

I had someone cut a 2 mm (5/64 to be honest) hole for one on a lathe using one of those cap nuts, here is my test print using PLA before I use the expensive stuff tomorrow:

According to Taulman's own numbers here: http://taulman3d.com/t-glase-features.html I estimated that my layer height should be a whopping 1.64 MM and that my speed should be around 10mm/sec, this actually proved to be too fast and I have since cut that number in half but I'll be damned if it isn't working-at least with this PLA I am printing without a layer fan.

Any advice from other T glase users out there?

[Glacian22]

Wow! That is one fat nozzle!

[JFettig]

Needs more heat, lots of it.

When I print clear PETG(haven't tried t-glase yet), I print at 265C if I print 40mm/s or faster, if I print at 255C at 40mm/s it gets cloudy.

With the fat nozzle you're pushing so much material through it that it can't transfer enough energy to it, the milky color is high stress material.

I'm surprised they recommend such a low temperature - but the low printing speed makes sense. They should make recommendations for higher speeds. I think they choose the low temps because of non all-metal hot ends.

[TFMike]

Jfettig, I wound up having to go 2.5 mm/sec at 225 nozzle temp to get the print you can see here: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 569#p68569

[JFettig]

How high can you get your nozzle before it melts down? Try 250-270c if its capable

[TFMike]

why so hot? Hottest I can go on that one is 240 though

[JFettig]

You're heating the material up, not just the nozzle, If the material is not heating up because of how fast you are printing, you either have to lower the speed, or increase the temperature. You're really aiming for a melt temperature of the material, not just nozzle temp. It takes a certain nozzle temp to get a melt temp at a specific flow rate.

Another thing that can be done is a longer melt zone - see the E3D Volcano nozzles.

[TFMike]

so 225 at 2.5 mm/sec didn't give a good enough result? Should I bump it up to 235 and go even more slowly?

[Nylocke]

Just go full temperature (240) at the same speed. The hotter/slower you print T-Glase the clearer it is (in general).

[TFMike]

I'll give it a shot, I was jumpin for joy yesterday that I even got it to work at all to be honest.