Building Rostock Max V2

[Hdale85]

So building this machine and ran into a problem when it was time to mount the heated bed. I installed all the t-nuts into the back of the top plate, but now that I've lined up the spacers and everything the screws don't go far enough in to make contact with the threads of the t-nuts. It's like the spacers are maybe 1-2mm to tall. This happens in every hole, which I checked thinking maybe I just didn't seat the t-nut down far enough. That doesn't seem to be the case though. Not sure what I should do here?

[DGBK]

Are you sure you are using the correct screws? I seem to recall that the screws that hold the heated bed down look very similar to some other screws. Check your kit to make sure you are using the correct hardware.

[Hdale85]

Yes pretty certain, I've packed it in for the night but I'll double check tomorrow. The screws and spacers and what not were all in a bag together though. Also that bag was in the big bag that had the Onyx and spacer board in it.

[geneb]

I bet those t-nuts aren't inserted fully. You can "pull" them deeper by using the mounting screws - put a washer on the screw, run it through the snowflake support, through a plastic washer and into the t-nut. As you tighten it, it'll pull the t-nut deeper into the melamine. Do that for all six and you're set.

g.

[Hdale85]

They were in there as far as I could get them with a hammer, and as I said maybe a couple but all of them? Seems unlikely I didn't get any of them seated all the way it's not the first time I've used T-Nuts.

[mhackney]

Post a photo of the setup and maybe one of the screws and a spacer laying side by side in the foreground.

[Hdale85]

I got it, had to torque them down lot with the screw and a second t but upside down.

[Hdale85]

Ok so, machine is done. I got the first fan shroud printed and it went already. There was a bit of over extrusion so I went in and did an extrusion calibration.

The second print went even better than the first one. Much cleaner.

Now I'm trying to print a keychain and I can't get the ABS to stick to the bed. Not sure what I'm doing wrong. I applied glue and everything. Also the first area around the item that it prints that's not actually connected never seems to get laid down properly. And there is a string of plastic that oozes out as the printer sits and I'm guessing that enough drops out that there is a small void and it takes a minute before the extrusion starts due to it?

I'm running at the default ABS settings from the presets off the SeeMeCNC website. It runs the extruder at 228c and the bed at 80c.


Also a few questions. The bed takes FOREVER to heat up. I saw that some people have added a second PSU to run the bed at 24v, would this make it heat up faster?

[Hdale85]

Well I think I figured out the ABS problem. Somehow my calibration got off by a good bit. Only thing I can think of is when installing the PEEK fan shroud? Either way I think I may have it works out now. We'll see how this print goes.

[Eaglezsoar]

Well I think I figured out the ABS problem. Somehow my calibration got off by a good bit. Only thing I can think of is when installing the PEEK fan shroud? Either way I think I may have it works out now. We'll see how this print goes.

We wish you the very best in your printing but please ask us if a problem occurs.
Good job in troubleshooting the problems you have had in the past.

[Hdale85]

Well, I swapped the ABS out that I was using and put in the Hatchbox Red ABS that I purchased. Tuning for this has been a bit of a pain honestly but I'm starting to get it dialed in for this filament. The problem I'm having at this point is an infill problem. It works pretty good on most of the test cube but in like one corner the infill bubbles up and clumps together. My delta movements seem to be adjusted just right (all at the same height on each arm) so at this point I'm not entirely sure whats' going on.

Here's an example of what I'm talking about, it's not quite this bad anymore but it's still doing it some.

[img]http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c30/Dougie085/CNC/IMG_20150818_161819_zpsh4keig03.jpg[/img]

[Eaglezsoar]

Have you tried a different slicer to determine if it makes a difference?
Also you asked if running the bed from 24VDC would make a difference in heat up times and the answer is that indeed it does make a large difference. My preference is to use
a DC Solid State Relay to supply the current through the bed rather than connecting the 24VDC to the Rambo board. You can find many examples if you use the search function
to find the appropriate threads.

[Hdale85]

Well I went to a higher infill and what not and printed a part last night and it didn't have that issue. So maybe it was the infill I was using? Although it did start doing that a bit on the first layer of a top layer but it was smoothed out by other layers after that.

[Hdale85]

Man I'm having a hell of a time with these colored ABS filaments. For some reason the little cog that strudes the filament through the extruder is eating away at the filament.