Mhackney's Rostock Max

[ramai]

You should let people "fish" these out of a bucket with one of your reels.

[noishi]

Mhackney,

Let me just say.... YOU ARE THE MAN!

I have spent the last 2 months fighting with my e3d nozzle to print PLA. After replacing the nozzle twice, new heat break, and many hours of tinkering and canola oil and so much more, I was about to order a Jhead and give up. When reading through various forums I came across your discover on the nozzle bore, and gave it a shot. I wish I had come across it sooner, but I finally found your post on the issue. I threw away my 2nd nozzle, it was worn from being unclogged from the butane torch so many times, and I bored a new one to your recommended length. INSTANTLY my prints worked better, every aspect of my print has improved, and I am able to enjoy printing again. I have been printing my PLA all day today, I have 2 brand new rolls I bought with my E3D I have been unable to print with until now, and am just thrilled to see the results.

I can't thank you enough for your contribution to the community and diligent effort to improve the technology, I salute you sir and express sincere gratitude!

-noishi

[mhackney]

Wow noishi, thank you for the kind words! I'm glad that I was able to help. Some day all of this will seem simple, just like the early days of PCs were painful and now they are less painful (MS Windows 8 being a notable exception, it is more painful).

[mhackney]

I love the E3D Systems PTC fittings as they allow the teflon Bowden tube to pass completely through them so there is no edge for the filament to hang up on. After over a year of disconnecting and connecting, the coupler on my extruder is starting to move in and out by about a mm. You can see it here:

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s7/v15 ... 6889-3.jpg[/img]

Normally you can push the tube in and pull the plastic ring out to lock out that movement. But this one gave up the ghost so I came up with an easy fix. I started with a small binder clip. And cut the L bends off one side:

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v23 ... 8172-3.jpg[/img]

This slides into the coupler and locks in place:

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v9 ... 8173-3.jpg[/img]

Now there is no movement and it can be easily removed to remove the tube.

[crocky]

Here is the mount with the tail on it (underneath) that goes into the hole where the leaf used to be bolted to.

fsrmount.stl

(96.98 KiB) Downloaded 350 times

Not finished yet so don't pick a fight

[mkx]

I forgot about this and thought a post might help others who want to use water cooled hot ends like the Kraken. Basically, I use a small plastic container mounted on the side of the Rostock for the water reservoir. An aluminum rod 10" high is mounted next to it for the water line support. This makes for a nice, clean arc of the lines to the Kraken and minimal mass that is moved around. I print at very high speed with this setup with no issues.

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s6/v13 ... 5095-3.jpg[/img][img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s3/v43 ... 5160-3.jpg[/img]

Interesting setup!, you don't have an issues with growth overtime? Or do you have silvercoil in there?

[mhackney]

I have a little strip of silver in there. For those not in the know, silver prevents yucky things from growing in the water!

[mhackney]

Safety first! This is how I transported my Rostock 125 miles each way to the Fly Fishing Museum in Manchester, VT today. safely buckled in.

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v82 ... 7121-4.jpg[/img]

It was interesting giving printing demos on a table outside in the wind and sun! But, everything stayed nicely calibrated even though I had to leave the printer in my car overnight in the driveway with a tarp over it since it wouldn't fit in my garage with the printer in the seat (I have a 2 car lift so I don't have a lot of extra headroom, maybe 2" above the windshield).

[wfcook]

Wow noishi, thank you for the kind words! I'm glad that I was able to help. Some day all of this will seem simple, just like the early days of PCs were painful and now they are less painful (MS Windows 8 being a notable exception, it is more painful).

I can't wait to get home and try this.

[derzaubererer]

Hello Mhackney
I just read through the whole article and purchased the FSR Kit now ive printed the Mounts and they do fit way too tight
would you mind sharing your Slicer settings(nr of shells etc?) also i just have metric screws do you think mounting them with some m2,5 screws instead of the 2,7676767(donno what inch this is xactly) will work?
also how sensitive should the fsr's be? should they be activated by a slight tap with my hand?
can you share some additional tipps about mounting the fsr's and maybe walk me through installing them with me?
Ill be happy for every help i can get.

[derzaubererer]

okay i got the fsr mounts printed correctly and will buy some shorter screws tomorrow did you change anything with their sensibility settings or did you just run them standard

[derzaubererer]

Nevermind i just did it was very easy

[mhackney]

Sorry I missed all this! Not sure how.

Since you figured it out I guess it's ok!

The most important thing on printing the FSR holders is to go slow. 25mm/s or less and print from inside out to get the best exterior finish. Other than that, 3 perimeters and shells and 50% fill of some sort is fine.

[derzaubererer]

Sorry I missed all this! Not sure how.

Since you figured it out I guess it's ok!

The most important thing on printing the FSR holders is to go slow. 25mm/s or less and print from inside out to get the best exterior finish. Other than that, 3 perimeters and shells and 50% fill of some sort is fine.

yes i printed them way too fast wich was why i had to scale the plugs to 96.5% to get them fit in ill probably use a bit of vaseline to give them a better gliding while i dont think its necessary thanks for your reply even when it was a lil bit too late i got it figured out using your build log

[lordgort]

Ok, wow there is so much information in your Posts... and it is very hard wich is the newest of them (different threads).

I want to do some massive Upgrades next Year, like FSR, smoothieboard and multiextrusion (if possible with watercooling).
I like the idea be able to print different materials in one print like flexible parts or with different nozzle sizes.

Now, in the end of 2015, could you sum up some of your best Upgrades you've done so far?

Would you still recommend the Kraken or Diamond?

My Rostock Max V2 is pretty stock right now.

[mhackney]

Thanks lordgort - this will make a great post on my new blog: http://sublimelayers.blogspot.com

I'll work on this over the next few days.

Cheers,
Michael

[lordgort]

thank you very much ^^

ill look there every day from now on XD

[lordgort]

oh btw you really should use another typo, that one is hard to read

[mhackney]

You can subscribe and get updates when I publish something new (like this morning). There is an email subscription link on the right sidebar and a feed subscription at the bottom of the page.

Thanks for the font feedback, I wondered about that. I am changing it now, let me know what you think.

[lordgort]

this is really better to read

im looking forward to your blog

i can recommend this articel when it goes to fonds
http://www.awaionline.com/2011/10/the-b ... and-email/

[mhackney]

Ok, here is my year-end My current Rostock Max "ultimate configuration" This is my current snapshot of my Rostock Max. I don't have any additional/expected upgrades planned for this machine for now. I may consider migrating to another Cyclops hot end. Meanwhile, I'm starting a build on a new Metal Max with linear rails.

[enggmaug]

Hapy New year ev1, I wish you all the best for 2016, and especially to you mchackney.
You bring so much to the community... I just wonder how do you get the time... Are you really only one person ? If not, well, then thank you all.
I followed many of your threads, and applied many of your advices with great success.


I now am implementing FSR on my printer. Would you recommend a specific material for the mounts ?
I thought PLA is stiffer than ABS, and that might be better, but with the proximity of the heating bed, ABS is probably the best candidate...

What do you reckon ?

[mhackney]

Thanks enggmaug! Yes, I am only 1 person and what you see here is only a part of everything I do! I also publish books on fly fishing (http://www.reellinespress.com) and manufacture fly fishing reels and several other products (http://www.eclecticangler.com) all with just me! And if that is not enough, I also contribute to several early Porsche 911 forums and do my own work and maintenance on my Porsche.

On the mounts - I print mine in PLA. On a Rostock, the snowflake insulates quite well so you won't have trouble with PLA even with a 110°C bed temperature. On my Kossels, I actually just had to replace the mounts this weekend because they warped when I heated he need to 90°C to print some ABS on this machine (which I rarely do). The Kossels do not have any insulation under the bed so the mounts were exposed to all the heat and they cantilever out from the frame so the weight of the bed is unsupported too. Print yours in PLA and you'll be fine.

[Windshadow]

Thanks enggmaug! Yes, I am only 1 person and what you see here is only a part of everything I do! I also publish books on fly fishing (http://www.reellinespress.com) and manufacture fly fishing reels and several other products (http://www.eclecticangler.com) all with just me! And if that is not enough, I also contribute to several early Porsche 911 forums and do my own work and maintenance on my Porsche.

[img]http://i0.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/ori ... 51/558.jpg[/img]

[mhackney]

Exactly!