300 C+ HOTEND

[Gr8Scott]

Heh. Keokolo, I will point out that E3D and matterhackers both provide PEEK filament, that E3D rates it's hotends to 400C+, and similar. The Rostock Max is also an extremely capable and adaptable machine. I doubt that Airwolf's machines can beat a well-tuned, well modded Max like Mike's. For that matter, I have a printer that can match if not beat every spec on their AW3D printer, for half the cost. A kit machine, like a home-brewed computer, is a variable beast. The good ones are better than anything you can buy, and the bad ones just don't work.

However, I will admit that we cheat compared to the people designing machines for sale. Development is massively parallel, and time isn't charged for. We can also roll-out changes and updates very rapidly. Operators are also expected to know what they are doing, and how the machine works. That sort of luxury is rare with industrial systems.

Don't dis kit machines, and especially open source kit machines. The bazaar method of development works, and does so extremely efficiently. There's a reason Linux has taken over such a huge percentage of supercomputers and servers. When you need the very best you can get, you go for what you can tweak and refine. Same thing with printers.

I have run my E3D V4 at 310C myself when printing Polycarbonate. It worked flawlessly and I could repeat that at any point in time once I get my printer running again (blew a channel out of the Rambo and I am now in the process of switching over to BBB and CRAMPS board).

[draw-tech]

Hi all
Finished major parts, now to make the rest of parts, and next the Test setup.

Jack

[Mac The Knife]

I've machined two parts for the SeeMeCNC Hotend, and still use the ptfe liner. two 40 watt heater cartridges. No problems. I replaced the PEEK with steel tubiing I slotted and threaded, and made an aluminum extension for the nozzle, to keep the ptfe tubing from ballooning. I'm sure I posted pictures on this forum somewhere.

[teoman]

I recommend a smoke detector on top of your printer. With 80w of power if something goes wrong there is a probability of catastrophic failiure.

[draw-tech]

Hi All

Finally finished the parts for the hotend, now I am setting up a Smoothieboard to test this piece.

Jack
draw-tech

[keokolo]

Your work shows years of machining and CAD experience, very awesome. I am starting to think about an external power supply brick with a regular power supply rather than a nerfed PC power supply (says ATX right on the box). One thing I am learning over a long time is that 3D printing is not for the office or bedroom environment, even the garage isn't that suitable. That was in the crazy days 3 years ago. A 3D printing station really needs a light industrial environment and when you get into these temperatures, there is some question about the nanoparticles that are being released. Several plastics are known carcinogens and they are the petroleum derived ones. PLA is made from corn starch and the composites are stronger than ABS with above ABS temperature. Good venting is needed and I now see I need an enclosure and venting. Watching the news and seeing more libraries starting to have 3D printers, with the crazy idea they are fine in a side office area. This is not going to end well.

[draw-tech]

Your work shows years of machining and CAD experience, very awesome. I am starting to think about an external power supply brick with a regular power supply rather than a nerfed PC power supply (says ATX right on the box). One thing I am learning over a long time is that 3D printing is not for the office or bedroom environment, even the garage isn't that suitable. That was in the crazy days 3 years ago. A 3D printing station really needs a light industrial environment and when you get into these temperatures, there is some question about the nanoparticles that are being released. Several plastics are known carcinogens and they are the petroleum derived ones. PLA is made from corn starch and the composites are stronger than ABS with above ABS temperature. Good venting is needed and I now see I need an enclosure and venting. Watching the news and seeing more libraries starting to have 3D printers, with the crazy idea they are fine in a side office area. This is not going to end well.

Thanks for the boost

I agree that no machine with a heating element, is nothing to be left alone. I have been working on an enclosure for the max, where smoke & heat detectors could be implemented. I have perfected the extruder to my liking, working on testing the hotend, and have a design for a (2) zone's, with (2) thermistors, an all Aluminum bed that can reach high temp fast, evenly across the bed. I have a 800w stand alone power supply for my testing with the Smoothieboard. Then comes the enclosure.
Jack
Draw-Tech

[keokolo]

It is becoming a problem with 20+ hour prints. No way I am going to stay awake watching it and also know anything can go kablooie at any time. I am going to look into a UPS that can be monitored by smartphone app, switched off remotely and have a cloud webcam. Plug the power brick into that For the time being, I don't need really high temps yet, the new PLA composites are very close to injection molded plastic. For venting, I will just use a cardboard box with 3 sides, a plastic curtain for the front, a used PC fan on the top with a dryer hose to that, out the window. Some guys are saying polycarbonate and nylon are clogging brass hot end nozzles. Eventually, glass like beads form on the inner wall and fuse. There are some people making their own stainless steel nozzle. The problem there is stainless steel will bond with the aluminum heat block. Suppose that could be remedied with a stainless steel heat block, maybe somebody is doing that?

[keokolo]

There is a new dual 1.75/3 mm 500C hotend coming out, going to kickstarter this month. I see there is also somebody that is coming out with some alloy hot end nozzle that they are claiming is better than stainless steel.
[img]http://3dprintingindustry.com/wp-conten ... inting.jpg[/img]

[drwho]

Great potential. I like the way this group thinks.

One thing to keep in mind most thermistors go up to 300°C. Beyond that you'll be switching to a thermocouple. I not sure what other changes that would entail but I'm sure someone on here is better versed in this area.

Hi dryho
Did some research on thermistors, you need to check out this place in Cal.
http://adsem.com/gpage1.html
Says will do 500 C+

AdsemSiHiTempThermistors.pdf

Jack
draw-tech

Wow, I didn't realize that thermistors are capable of >500C. Impressive. Now I all I need is a SS relay to by pass the rambo for the high current. Great find, thank you for sharing.