I'm still debating about how to do mine, thinking about some tiny wood screws to hold the faceplate in place. Bigger fish to fry first.
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8247/8586 ... dc5d70.jpg[/img]
Assembly completed last night. Wiring completed, and first successful g28 (first try!)
Few notes
* Had to mount RAMBo to the inside of the LCD compartment for the cables to reach (see end of post for picture)
* Almost didn't wire the endstops, per geneb's manual, I didn't wire at the time of installing per the manual's suggestion. But it never mentions installing the wires (or proper order) to wire the endstops - Almost forgot before powering up for the first time!
* LCD screen unresponsive, even after installing polygonhell's firmware, the screen doesn't respond. Started new thread in Rostock Max forum for this topic. I suspect a bad solder joint on the smart adapter.
* G1 Z10 F1200 does NOT put the hotend anywhere CLOSE to the print surface. I did change the Microsteps to 16 per Mhackney's post here - http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... fine#p5116 - but when I changed this setting in the configuration.h file and uploaded firmware, The printer appears to be moving at 8 microsteps (i assume). Is there another place in the firmware to change the microsteps?
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8380/8585 ... ec78_z.jpg[/img]
Cassetti's black Rostock MAX build
Re: Cassetti's black Rostock MAX build
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Re: Cassetti's black Rostock MAX build
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8249/8587 ... 1404_z.jpg[/img]
It Prints!
Had a busy weekend with the printer - finished assembly, started calibrating (the dang EEPROM stuff confused the heck out of me - wish there was some content about the changes required for RAMBo 1.1 to work properly.
Few notes
* Still don't have LCD screen working - sending my poorly soldered adapter to a friend to see if he can help, if not I'll need to contact SeeMeCNC and see if i can get a pre-soldered smart adapter.....
* Couldn't for the LIFE of me figure out why setting the microsteps in the configuration.h file weren't taking effect. Wasn't until I learned that I had to disable eeprom (but later discovered I needed to enable eeprom and adjust the steps per mm - boy was that confusing).
* Ended up being 15mm away from the build surface - figured this was because I was using 1.75" adjustment screws for the endstops instead of 2" (used the wrong size screws for the idler pulleys) - ran to TrueValue near my house and picked up some 2" and 2.5" adjustment screws - this fixed my issue
* Added some multi-color LED lights to my top panel
* Loaded filament into printer and started printing, had to restart print 3 times since the filament wasn't sticking to the blue tape - kept adjusting the adjustment screws until I felt comfortable. Finished printing the calibration cube, but have serious concerns.
Seems like my extruder isn't laying down enough plastic - for the infill and the shells. I'm half amazed the thing even printed halfway decent (compared to other prints I've seen on here)
Can anyone offer some advice? I've heard it could be a 'sticking' joint that requires more sanding, but is there any way to identify where the problem could be?
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8248/8587 ... 5cb1_c.jpg[/img]
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8532/8587 ... 2f65_c.jpg[/img]
It Prints!
Had a busy weekend with the printer - finished assembly, started calibrating (the dang EEPROM stuff confused the heck out of me - wish there was some content about the changes required for RAMBo 1.1 to work properly.
Few notes
* Still don't have LCD screen working - sending my poorly soldered adapter to a friend to see if he can help, if not I'll need to contact SeeMeCNC and see if i can get a pre-soldered smart adapter.....
* Couldn't for the LIFE of me figure out why setting the microsteps in the configuration.h file weren't taking effect. Wasn't until I learned that I had to disable eeprom (but later discovered I needed to enable eeprom and adjust the steps per mm - boy was that confusing).
* Ended up being 15mm away from the build surface - figured this was because I was using 1.75" adjustment screws for the endstops instead of 2" (used the wrong size screws for the idler pulleys) - ran to TrueValue near my house and picked up some 2" and 2.5" adjustment screws - this fixed my issue
* Added some multi-color LED lights to my top panel
* Loaded filament into printer and started printing, had to restart print 3 times since the filament wasn't sticking to the blue tape - kept adjusting the adjustment screws until I felt comfortable. Finished printing the calibration cube, but have serious concerns.
Seems like my extruder isn't laying down enough plastic - for the infill and the shells. I'm half amazed the thing even printed halfway decent (compared to other prints I've seen on here)
Can anyone offer some advice? I've heard it could be a 'sticking' joint that requires more sanding, but is there any way to identify where the problem could be?
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8248/8587 ... 5cb1_c.jpg[/img]
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8532/8587 ... 2f65_c.jpg[/img]
(No trees were killed to post this message, but a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.)
Re: Cassetti's black Rostock MAX build
dont forget to change your steps per min for the extruder also.!
My rostock build log http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1228
Re: Cassetti's black Rostock MAX build
Thanks! My friend also reminded me of that this morning. I don't recall if this was printed before or after disabling eeprom. I'm going to check that after work and try another test-print to see how things go.cambo3d wrote:dont forget to change your steps per min for the extruder also.!
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-
MorbidSlowBurn
- Printmaster!
- Posts: 169
- Joined: Sun Mar 03, 2013 5:33 pm
Re: Cassetti's black Rostock MAX build
Looks like primary issue is filament starving. Could be a couple of issues.
First is make sure your filament style in your slicer is set to the average diameter of your filament e.g. 1.74.
Second is make sure when the filament advances the rollers are not slipping. Put a little tension on the filament before the extruder and send an advance command to the extruder. Adjust tension on the rollers such that it doesn't slip but not so much as you crush the filament.
Lastly, check your filament advance. Make sure when you send a 50mm extrude it takes 50mm. Measure this prior to the extruder not after as the rollers may stretch/distort the filament. Adjust EEPROM/config file as necessary to get an accurate feed.
The friction in the joints causes small gaps for the fill, not the extent you have.
First is make sure your filament style in your slicer is set to the average diameter of your filament e.g. 1.74.
Second is make sure when the filament advances the rollers are not slipping. Put a little tension on the filament before the extruder and send an advance command to the extruder. Adjust tension on the rollers such that it doesn't slip but not so much as you crush the filament.
Lastly, check your filament advance. Make sure when you send a 50mm extrude it takes 50mm. Measure this prior to the extruder not after as the rollers may stretch/distort the filament. Adjust EEPROM/config file as necessary to get an accurate feed.
The friction in the joints causes small gaps for the fill, not the extent you have.
Re: Cassetti's black Rostock MAX build
Thanks MorbidSlowBurn,
I suspected a filament feed issue as well. I'll see how it goes tonight
I suspected a filament feed issue as well. I'll see how it goes tonight
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Re: Cassetti's black Rostock MAX build
Phew! I'm amazed. Simply Amazed by this printer! Everything from this awesome community of support, to the engineering that went into the printer's design.
I found a sweet 4cm adapter on thingiverse (thing:40845), printed it in black on my work's Makerbot Replicator and installed that last night
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8378/8590 ... f52c_z.jpg[/img]
Turns out it was the steps per MM on the extruder causing the issue. First thing yesterday after work, I fixed the Steps per mm in the EEPROM and started printing. Aside from warping, it came out pretty dang perfect for the second print ever on this printer!
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8098/8590 ... 87e7_c.jpg[/img]
Only real concern I have at this point is the infill pattern on this left side - looks like it isn't quite reaching the center:
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8505/8590 ... d2ca_b.jpg[/img]
I really suspect this was because one of my cheapskates was slightly loose (I'd see during printing it wobble ever so slightly). I did tighten down the eccentric cams on that skate to remove wobble (about a 1/6th of a turn on the top cam, 1/8th a turn on the bottom cam), but if you have any other ideas, I'm open to suggestions. Also I think I should start trying some other basic calibration models. Anyone have some suggestions?
I found a sweet 4cm adapter on thingiverse (thing:40845), printed it in black on my work's Makerbot Replicator and installed that last night
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8378/8590 ... f52c_z.jpg[/img]
Turns out it was the steps per MM on the extruder causing the issue. First thing yesterday after work, I fixed the Steps per mm in the EEPROM and started printing. Aside from warping, it came out pretty dang perfect for the second print ever on this printer!
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8098/8590 ... 87e7_c.jpg[/img]
Only real concern I have at this point is the infill pattern on this left side - looks like it isn't quite reaching the center:
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8505/8590 ... d2ca_b.jpg[/img]
I really suspect this was because one of my cheapskates was slightly loose (I'd see during printing it wobble ever so slightly). I did tighten down the eccentric cams on that skate to remove wobble (about a 1/6th of a turn on the top cam, 1/8th a turn on the bottom cam), but if you have any other ideas, I'm open to suggestions. Also I think I should start trying some other basic calibration models. Anyone have some suggestions?
(No trees were killed to post this message, but a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.)
Re: Cassetti's black Rostock MAX build
Your prints are looking good! My is "out for delivery". Can't wait. Are there any tips you can give in regards working with EEPROM?
Re: Cassetti's black Rostock MAX build
Thanks! Little worried about printing larger stuff - with all the talk about a warping print surface, and insufficient power for the Onyx to heat it up, I'm thinking I'll stick to small items for now...aerouta wrote:Your prints are looking good! My is "out for delivery". Can't wait. Are there any tips you can give in regards working with EEPROM?
EEPROM from what I understand resets itself when uploading new firmware. There is a setting in the configuration.h to turn it on or off. I turned it off when trying to sort out the Microsteps issue for RAMBO 1.1 however it's probably best to leave it on. After uploading polygonhell's firmware, go into the repetier-host software and access the eeprom. The first thing you'll need to do is change the steps per MM for X,Y,Z and extruder (just double the numbers, not at my printer or I'd give you the values).
Aside from that, the only other thing in the eeprom I changed so far is the PID autotune stuff
(No trees were killed to post this message, but a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.)
Re: Cassetti's black Rostock MAX build
Haven't gotten much accomplished.
I discovered I had incorrectly wired the power supply for my hotbed - I was only using 1 yellow and 1 black wire for the hotbed power source. When I added 2 more pairs of wires to the hotbed power input, my time to reach 60c jumped from 15 minutes down to 10 minutes! Haven't gotten time to do more testing to check how fast it can heat up to 85 (I have a few ideas how to tweak this)
Also tested my aluminum print surface at 60c to see how bad the warping is. Happy to report there is less than a 0.5mm bump in the center of my plate! I was able to 'level' my bed using the paper trick - except I tried it slightly different: I tested the height at each rail (G1 Z0 Y-110 for the Z rail, G1 Z0 Y-60 X-50 for the X axis I think?, forget the Y coordinates) and adjusted the alignment screws until it just barely grabbed my heavy card stock paper. After calibrating all 3 rails for this height, I then tested the middle (G1 z0 x0 y0) of the bed using a thin piece of standard printer paper, it was a bit tight, but plastic seems to flow pretty fair. This helped account for the slight warping in the center of my build surface. I might consider a piece of glass on top of the aluminum plate to further eliminate warping, but for now, I feel much better than yesterday when I was reading all the reports of horribly warped beds!
I tried printing a thin-walled object with good success but 45 minutes into the 4 hour print, I accidentally froze up the printer (used the scroll wheel and set feed rate multiplier accidentally down to 5 - somehow that froze up the printer and failed the print! Shame too - it was looking so nice, would have been real proud to pull a huge vase off the printer as my 4th item ever pulled off the printer.
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8374/8590 ... 61a6_z.jpg[/img]
Since that specific model is pretty much cursed (I have attempted to print that same model on 2 printers, 7+ times, each time the print would fail for any number of reasons including warping, power outage, rebooting computer, human error, etc). So I moved on to a single walled knurled stretch bracelets, Unfortunately the model I chose and the material I used (clear blue PLA) wasn't cooperating. Unfortunately I didn't take any shots of that, but man it was ugly - maybe I'll add a picture when I get a chance.
So before I called it a night last night, I printed a piece in clear PLA that I've been working on at work. It's a piece I'm making for our trade show booth. Note how the infill seems sufficient on about half of the model, but there are spots where it just doesn't reach the shell..... I suspect this is because I need to do some more sanding, but could really use suggestions on how to hunt down the sticky arm (or rail)
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8366/8594 ... c9a3_c.jpg[/img]
(Bad shot - I might try re-printing with ABS tonight in white for a better picture of the problem....)
I'm starting to suspect I should keep playing with ABS until I hone my skills on this printer, and fix some calibration issues. Gotta love Amazon Prime, I'll have a new spool of black ABS filament tomorrow
I discovered I had incorrectly wired the power supply for my hotbed - I was only using 1 yellow and 1 black wire for the hotbed power source. When I added 2 more pairs of wires to the hotbed power input, my time to reach 60c jumped from 15 minutes down to 10 minutes! Haven't gotten time to do more testing to check how fast it can heat up to 85 (I have a few ideas how to tweak this)
Also tested my aluminum print surface at 60c to see how bad the warping is. Happy to report there is less than a 0.5mm bump in the center of my plate! I was able to 'level' my bed using the paper trick - except I tried it slightly different: I tested the height at each rail (G1 Z0 Y-110 for the Z rail, G1 Z0 Y-60 X-50 for the X axis I think?, forget the Y coordinates) and adjusted the alignment screws until it just barely grabbed my heavy card stock paper. After calibrating all 3 rails for this height, I then tested the middle (G1 z0 x0 y0) of the bed using a thin piece of standard printer paper, it was a bit tight, but plastic seems to flow pretty fair. This helped account for the slight warping in the center of my build surface. I might consider a piece of glass on top of the aluminum plate to further eliminate warping, but for now, I feel much better than yesterday when I was reading all the reports of horribly warped beds!
I tried printing a thin-walled object with good success but 45 minutes into the 4 hour print, I accidentally froze up the printer (used the scroll wheel and set feed rate multiplier accidentally down to 5 - somehow that froze up the printer and failed the print! Shame too - it was looking so nice, would have been real proud to pull a huge vase off the printer as my 4th item ever pulled off the printer.
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8374/8590 ... 61a6_z.jpg[/img]
Since that specific model is pretty much cursed (I have attempted to print that same model on 2 printers, 7+ times, each time the print would fail for any number of reasons including warping, power outage, rebooting computer, human error, etc). So I moved on to a single walled knurled stretch bracelets, Unfortunately the model I chose and the material I used (clear blue PLA) wasn't cooperating. Unfortunately I didn't take any shots of that, but man it was ugly - maybe I'll add a picture when I get a chance.
So before I called it a night last night, I printed a piece in clear PLA that I've been working on at work. It's a piece I'm making for our trade show booth. Note how the infill seems sufficient on about half of the model, but there are spots where it just doesn't reach the shell..... I suspect this is because I need to do some more sanding, but could really use suggestions on how to hunt down the sticky arm (or rail)
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8366/8594 ... c9a3_c.jpg[/img]
(Bad shot - I might try re-printing with ABS tonight in white for a better picture of the problem....)
I'm starting to suspect I should keep playing with ABS until I hone my skills on this printer, and fix some calibration issues. Gotta love Amazon Prime, I'll have a new spool of black ABS filament tomorrow
(No trees were killed to post this message, but a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.)
Re: Cassetti's black Rostock MAX build
instead of looking at lines of code in firmware. You can change most settings you'll need in eeprom menu in repetier host. Provided you are using repetier firmware (open menu, change desired setting, save, your done)aerouta wrote:Your prints are looking good! My is "out for delivery". Can't wait. Are there any tips you can give in regards working with EEPROM?
My rostock build log http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1228
Re: Cassetti's black Rostock MAX build
Oh, also aside from my print quality issue, I've noticed 2 issues with my extruder
1) The extruder is making a very familiar grinding/squeeking noise - My Ecksbot extruder made a similar sound. Doesn't appear to affect extrusion. (Note I am using the Mhackney extruder spacer upgrade).
2) My extruder motor pulley seems to be slipping sometimes. A few times the filament will stop extracting and the extruder will keep clicking away until I help give the extruder gears a nudge, then everything evens out for a while.....
The noisy extruder I can deal with - the slipping pulley on the motor shaft is another concern...... If I walked away from the printer for 3 hours, I would have come back to a burned up hotend and a failed print!
1) The extruder is making a very familiar grinding/squeeking noise - My Ecksbot extruder made a similar sound. Doesn't appear to affect extrusion. (Note I am using the Mhackney extruder spacer upgrade).
2) My extruder motor pulley seems to be slipping sometimes. A few times the filament will stop extracting and the extruder will keep clicking away until I help give the extruder gears a nudge, then everything evens out for a while.....
The noisy extruder I can deal with - the slipping pulley on the motor shaft is another concern...... If I walked away from the printer for 3 hours, I would have come back to a burned up hotend and a failed print!
(No trees were killed to post this message, but a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.)
-
MorbidSlowBurn
- Printmaster!
- Posts: 169
- Joined: Sun Mar 03, 2013 5:33 pm
Re: Cassetti's black Rostock MAX build
1) some post have mentioned this and it seems the recommendation is to check the gears on the feed rollers for impact to the bottom of the knurled fitting in the extruder housing. Two fixes have been used. One is to bevel the gears so there is clearance. The second is to take material off the housing so the fitting sits closer to the housing (some people have had problems with filament kinking in this area so making the gap larger is not necessarily a good thing).
2) what is slipping? Are your stepper and gears turning and the feed rollers are not? See answer for 1 above. If feed rollers are turning and filament not advancing, check the pressure of the rollers on the filament. If that is good then you may have a temperature/feed issue.
2) what is slipping? Are your stepper and gears turning and the feed rollers are not? See answer for 1 above. If feed rollers are turning and filament not advancing, check the pressure of the rollers on the filament. If that is good then you may have a temperature/feed issue.
Re: Cassetti's black Rostock MAX build
MorbidSlowBurn wrote:1) some post have mentioned this and it seems the recommendation is to check the gears on the feed rollers for impact to the bottom of the knurled fitting in the extruder housing. Two fixes have been used. One is to bevel the gears so there is clearance. The second is to take material off the housing so the fitting sits closer to the housing (some people have had problems with filament kinking in this area so making the gap larger is not necessarily a good thing).
2) what is slipping? Are your stepper and gears turning and the feed rollers are not? See answer for 1 above. If feed rollers are turning and filament not advancing, check the pressure of the rollers on the filament. If that is good then you may have a temperature/feed issue.
Thanks I'll check that. The gear attached to the stepper motor on the extruder is slipping occasionally. I did loosen up the screws holding the rollers last night, we'll see if the issue continues. might be simply a variance in the thickness of the filament, not sure
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Re: Cassetti's black Rostock MAX build
cassetti wrote:Oh, also aside from my print quality issue, I've noticed 2 issues with my extruder
1) The extruder is making a very familiar grinding/squeeking noise - My Ecksbot extruder made a similar sound. Doesn't appear to affect extrusion. (Note I am using the Mhackney extruder spacer upgrade).
2) My extruder motor pulley seems to be slipping sometimes. A few times the filament will stop extracting and the extruder will keep clicking away until I help give the extruder gears a nudge, then everything evens out for a while.....
The noisy extruder I can deal with - the slipping pulley on the motor shaft is another concern...... If I walked away from the printer for 3 hours, I would have come back to a burned up hotend and a failed print!
i doubt that your pully is slipping unless you just have a bad tolerance pulley. its more likely your stepper is stalling because you have some binding somewhere.
My rostock build log http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1228
-
MorbidSlowBurn
- Printmaster!
- Posts: 169
- Joined: Sun Mar 03, 2013 5:33 pm
Re: Cassetti's black Rostock MAX build
Slipping gear on stepper is very unlikely. Take a marker and draw a line across the gear and stepper shaft to make sure they move together. If they don't mod together something will have to be done to fit that. Not sure what.cassetti wrote: Thanks I'll check that. The gear attached to the stepper motor on the extruder is slipping occasionally. I did loosen up the screws holding the rollers last night, we'll see if the issue continues. might be simply a variance in the thickness of the filament, not sure
Cambo3d is right if the gears at the stepper are not moving when expected. Check for interferences as I posted. After that it is beyond what I know but I have seen mention of adjusting settings in the firmware for steppers to eliminate missed steps.
Re: Cassetti's black Rostock MAX build
Just a few updates
* Haven't really examined the extruder much, but I loosened the screws holding the filament tight between the idler rollers, and I pushed my motor pulley down further since it wasn't completely inserted onto the shaft (pushed pulley about 1.5mm deeper onto the motor shaft). The grinding noise has pretty much disappeared - still there, but not as annoying.
* Had some delta-arm blues with infill issues. Took off 5 arms before I found a sticky joint where the arm connects to the cheapskate on the Z-rail. It was VERY stiff. I sanded quite a bit (maybe too much) and re-assembled. Infill issues have pretty much disappeared, I think need some more sanding on an arm or two, but for the most part, infill is way better than it was!
* Added 2 more pairs of wires (for a total of 3) going from the computer PSU to the RAMBo hotbed power input to increase heatup times. This cut about 25% off my heatup time.
* added a second pair of 18awg speaker wire (for a total of 3 pairs) from the Onyx to the RAMBo, I think heatup times are about as good as I can get with this computer power supply. Will be recording and posting heatup times with the various improvements I've made at some point, still need to gather a bit more data.
* Aluminum heat dissapator by Mhackney is warped (manufacturing defect) in the center. Having trouble with warping, probably going to add a borosilicite glass top to ensure I have a flat surface. Slic3r's new raft feature should help eliminate warping issues, but we'll see about that.
* Started playing with the new Slic3r 0.9.9 - the new features for bowden extruders are nice, I really like the print quality from my first two prints since moving to Slic3r 0.9.9
Here's some sample prints (In order of date printed - oldest to newest):
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8521/8596 ... f80db4.jpg[/img]
Calibration cube I tried printing before fixing my infill issues. Has some extrusion issues, I suspect a lot was Slic3r's fault. Might try again with the new slic3r 0.9.9
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8510/8595 ... 3e3312.jpg[/img]
Failed attempt at making a single walled stretchlet. I suspect my sticky Z delta arm is part of the culprit. Need to tweak my slic3r settings
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8245/8601 ... 89f63f.jpg[/img]
Original Size spool holder by Av8rc - turned out pretty good, despite a sticky Z delta arm. Works though, so I'm happy
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8225/8600 ... 456f25.jpg[/img]
Ugly Spool clips! I partially blame the sticky Z-delta arm, but I also blame Slic3r - omf. Lots of settings to tweak in slic3r for these smaller objects
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8100/8601 ... 07f7_b.jpg[/img]
Last item I printed (spool holder spacer by AV8RC) before I admitted I had the delta-arm blues and started hunting down the sticky arm. Unfortunately I don't have a picture of my matching arm that I printed immediately after fixing the issue.
Last night I printed a long spool holder by AV8RC - turned out great - no warping at all (Thanks to a 4mm brim and 3 layers of rafts!). Overall very pleased with this printer and my purchase. Still needs a lot of work before I'm comfortable letting it do a 10+ hour print and leave it alone. Which reminds me, I need to setup my IP camera so I can watch the printer from my phone.....
* Haven't really examined the extruder much, but I loosened the screws holding the filament tight between the idler rollers, and I pushed my motor pulley down further since it wasn't completely inserted onto the shaft (pushed pulley about 1.5mm deeper onto the motor shaft). The grinding noise has pretty much disappeared - still there, but not as annoying.
* Had some delta-arm blues with infill issues. Took off 5 arms before I found a sticky joint where the arm connects to the cheapskate on the Z-rail. It was VERY stiff. I sanded quite a bit (maybe too much) and re-assembled. Infill issues have pretty much disappeared, I think need some more sanding on an arm or two, but for the most part, infill is way better than it was!
* Added 2 more pairs of wires (for a total of 3) going from the computer PSU to the RAMBo hotbed power input to increase heatup times. This cut about 25% off my heatup time.
* added a second pair of 18awg speaker wire (for a total of 3 pairs) from the Onyx to the RAMBo, I think heatup times are about as good as I can get with this computer power supply. Will be recording and posting heatup times with the various improvements I've made at some point, still need to gather a bit more data.
* Aluminum heat dissapator by Mhackney is warped (manufacturing defect) in the center. Having trouble with warping, probably going to add a borosilicite glass top to ensure I have a flat surface. Slic3r's new raft feature should help eliminate warping issues, but we'll see about that.
* Started playing with the new Slic3r 0.9.9 - the new features for bowden extruders are nice, I really like the print quality from my first two prints since moving to Slic3r 0.9.9
Here's some sample prints (In order of date printed - oldest to newest):
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8521/8596 ... f80db4.jpg[/img]
Calibration cube I tried printing before fixing my infill issues. Has some extrusion issues, I suspect a lot was Slic3r's fault. Might try again with the new slic3r 0.9.9
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8510/8595 ... 3e3312.jpg[/img]
Failed attempt at making a single walled stretchlet. I suspect my sticky Z delta arm is part of the culprit. Need to tweak my slic3r settings
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8245/8601 ... 89f63f.jpg[/img]
Original Size spool holder by Av8rc - turned out pretty good, despite a sticky Z delta arm. Works though, so I'm happy
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8225/8600 ... 456f25.jpg[/img]
Ugly Spool clips! I partially blame the sticky Z-delta arm, but I also blame Slic3r - omf. Lots of settings to tweak in slic3r for these smaller objects
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8100/8601 ... 07f7_b.jpg[/img]
Last item I printed (spool holder spacer by AV8RC) before I admitted I had the delta-arm blues and started hunting down the sticky arm. Unfortunately I don't have a picture of my matching arm that I printed immediately after fixing the issue.
Last night I printed a long spool holder by AV8RC - turned out great - no warping at all (Thanks to a 4mm brim and 3 layers of rafts!). Overall very pleased with this printer and my purchase. Still needs a lot of work before I'm comfortable letting it do a 10+ hour print and leave it alone. Which reminds me, I need to setup my IP camera so I can watch the printer from my phone.....
(No trees were killed to post this message, but a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.)
Re: Cassetti's black Rostock MAX build
Just a short update:
* Purchased two 12" diameter pane glass from a local glass shop - seemed to work pretty good, I can print larger objects with no warping issues.
* Hotend temps seem a bit off - cracking issues on single wall objects, cracking issues resolved when printing 5 or 10C hotter than normal, need to buy a K-thermistor after payday to see how far off my temps are.
* Friend had some Delrin plastic panels (3/8th") - cut up a few of these into 12" circles. Not sure how I feel about them, might go back to printing on glass with blue tape.
* Heatup times still slow, but I can manage that by pre-heating when I know I'll be printing, and using a towel to keep things toasty. I think it's a wiring issue, need to go back and re-check all my connections.
* I guess in fixing my delta arm blues, I sanded a bit too much on a few spots. It seems at least 2 (maybe 3) arms have too much side to side play where the arm meets the cheap-skates. I'm currently looking for the thinnest Acetyl washers I can find to eliminate the slack. I suspect this is why I'm having some issues on complex models.
* Printed 2 single-wall vases (used 2 perimeters and increased hotend temp to prevent cracking and produce a more solid shape). The second one is a huge koch snowflake vase I scaled up. It was my first "long" print - 13 hours! Not bad for the 20th item I pulled off the printer. Hard to see in the picture, but halfway up, the entire print shifts 0.5mm then after several layers shifts back to where it was before. I suspect this was the "sweet spot" for my loose arms. Didn't impact print quality much, it still came out pretty damn awesome (and water tight!).
This was my first 2-wall vase, printed at 230C - I noticed some minor 'cracking'. Decided to increase the temperature for the koch snowflake vase
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8260/8628 ... 5048_c.jpg[/img]
13 hour print. Practically no warping of the first layer (some of the brim lifted, but that's it). This thing is massive
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8259/8630 ... a51b_c.jpg[/img]
You can see in this picture how the entire model seems to bump out a mm or so, and then after a few layers shift back to where it was printing. I suspect this is caused by the excess play in several delta arms.
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8255/8629 ... 99d6_b.jpg[/img]
* Purchased two 12" diameter pane glass from a local glass shop - seemed to work pretty good, I can print larger objects with no warping issues.
* Hotend temps seem a bit off - cracking issues on single wall objects, cracking issues resolved when printing 5 or 10C hotter than normal, need to buy a K-thermistor after payday to see how far off my temps are.
* Friend had some Delrin plastic panels (3/8th") - cut up a few of these into 12" circles. Not sure how I feel about them, might go back to printing on glass with blue tape.
* Heatup times still slow, but I can manage that by pre-heating when I know I'll be printing, and using a towel to keep things toasty. I think it's a wiring issue, need to go back and re-check all my connections.
* I guess in fixing my delta arm blues, I sanded a bit too much on a few spots. It seems at least 2 (maybe 3) arms have too much side to side play where the arm meets the cheap-skates. I'm currently looking for the thinnest Acetyl washers I can find to eliminate the slack. I suspect this is why I'm having some issues on complex models.
* Printed 2 single-wall vases (used 2 perimeters and increased hotend temp to prevent cracking and produce a more solid shape). The second one is a huge koch snowflake vase I scaled up. It was my first "long" print - 13 hours! Not bad for the 20th item I pulled off the printer. Hard to see in the picture, but halfway up, the entire print shifts 0.5mm then after several layers shifts back to where it was before. I suspect this was the "sweet spot" for my loose arms. Didn't impact print quality much, it still came out pretty damn awesome (and water tight!).
This was my first 2-wall vase, printed at 230C - I noticed some minor 'cracking'. Decided to increase the temperature for the koch snowflake vase
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8260/8628 ... 5048_c.jpg[/img]
13 hour print. Practically no warping of the first layer (some of the brim lifted, but that's it). This thing is massive
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8259/8630 ... a51b_c.jpg[/img]
You can see in this picture how the entire model seems to bump out a mm or so, and then after a few layers shift back to where it was printing. I suspect this is caused by the excess play in several delta arms.
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8255/8629 ... 99d6_b.jpg[/img]
(No trees were killed to post this message, but a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.)
Re: Cassetti's black Rostock MAX build
Nice work! I want to do some of those.
Concerning the shift in your print. You may want to inspect your belts too. Could be a missing tooth or two. Looks like what happened to me, pics in my post here http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1537.
Concerning the shift in your print. You may want to inspect your belts too. Could be a missing tooth or two. Looks like what happened to me, pics in my post here http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1537.
Re: Cassetti's black Rostock MAX build
Thanks! Yeah, I think they are actually very useful torture tests for the machine - repetitive motion, awesome for testing higher speeds of the machine.Av8r RC wrote:Nice work! I want to do some of those.
Concerning the shift in your print. You may want to inspect your belts too. Could be a missing tooth or two. Looks like what happened to me, pics in my post here http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1537.
My shims were delivered this morning, doing another long print right now. The major shift didn't occur until 125mm up the print! Otherwise there were only a few spots I could tell were obviously caused by the play in different arms (happened all within one 'area' across multiple rows, just a little ripple in the print). I'll shim it tonight to remove the play in the arms and will be printing some other large solid walled objects.
I did notice a bit of wear on the belts in about a 50mm stretch on all 3 belts, but I'm not noticing any major damage as shown in your pictures (yet). I'll keep an eye on mine though, I'm sure they aren't properly tensioned. But so far, I am pretty pleased with the results. Much better than my previous attempt at a prusa mendel i2!
...... and I just heard a crunch/thud, looked over and my hotend was jammed into the print (still trying to print, of course)! Somehow it must have lost a step on a belt and lost it's spot..... crap, there goes that 12 hour print. Gotta figure out what happened, but leaving for an 8 hour trade show in 20....(No trees were killed to post this message, but a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.)
Re: Cassetti's black Rostock MAX build
Hmm, what's new:
* Printing currently with Mhackney's aluminum plate and a round piece of pane glass on top (edges ground down for safe removal). Results are pretty good
* Suspect I may have to re-test my z0 calibration when switching between ABS and PLA due to minor warping of build surface when temps are above 70C - confirming this weekend, but it's a low priority issue
* Experimenting with shimming washers on the cheapskate side of the delta arms to remove excess 'play' in the arms. Results are extremely noticeable when testing with larger prints (Single wall vases). Unfortunately the ID is too large for the 1/8" axle so I'm waiting on my Amazon prime order to arrive with 0.002" stainless 18-8 shimming washers which should do the trick.
* Calibration seems pretty good. Printed a 20mm cube single wall test in PLA and calculated almost the same extrusion multiplier (0.86) as I measured for my ABS calibration cubes. Also, measuring dimensions of my 20mm cube appear to be more accurate since shimming my arms. I am now within 3/1000" in any direction. That's acceptable enough to me to start playing with some real models!
Printed this 16 hour print last night. First long print in PLA (Clear Blue PLA), did pretty dang swell. I had 3 shells, 0 infill, and 4 base layers. 8" tall final height. 3 hours into the print I changed the flowrate multiplier to 130 because I noticed all 3 shells weren't always connected as the head zigzagged around the print (some areas like corners were great).
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8126/8645 ... 14a0_b.jpg[/img]
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8389/8645 ... ae7c_b.jpg[/img]
* Printing currently with Mhackney's aluminum plate and a round piece of pane glass on top (edges ground down for safe removal). Results are pretty good
* Suspect I may have to re-test my z0 calibration when switching between ABS and PLA due to minor warping of build surface when temps are above 70C - confirming this weekend, but it's a low priority issue
* Experimenting with shimming washers on the cheapskate side of the delta arms to remove excess 'play' in the arms. Results are extremely noticeable when testing with larger prints (Single wall vases). Unfortunately the ID is too large for the 1/8" axle so I'm waiting on my Amazon prime order to arrive with 0.002" stainless 18-8 shimming washers which should do the trick.
* Calibration seems pretty good. Printed a 20mm cube single wall test in PLA and calculated almost the same extrusion multiplier (0.86) as I measured for my ABS calibration cubes. Also, measuring dimensions of my 20mm cube appear to be more accurate since shimming my arms. I am now within 3/1000" in any direction. That's acceptable enough to me to start playing with some real models!
Printed this 16 hour print last night. First long print in PLA (Clear Blue PLA), did pretty dang swell. I had 3 shells, 0 infill, and 4 base layers. 8" tall final height. 3 hours into the print I changed the flowrate multiplier to 130 because I noticed all 3 shells weren't always connected as the head zigzagged around the print (some areas like corners were great).
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8126/8645 ... 14a0_b.jpg[/img]
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8389/8645 ... ae7c_b.jpg[/img]
(No trees were killed to post this message, but a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.)
Re: Cassetti's black Rostock MAX build
cassetti wrote:
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8245/8601 ... 89f63f.jpg[/img]
Original Size spool holder by Av8rc - turned out pretty good, despite a sticky Z delta arm. Works though, so I'm happy
Do you have a link for the STL file for this?
