Modded Rostock MAX v2 "Orangesicle"

[Aureus]

Ok

[DGBK]

If you plan on doing much in the way of ABS, or large parts, or exotic higher temperature filaments, I suggest a chamber as well. Heated by preference. I find the Raymond style enclosure will accomodate tools in the top brackets (It was intended for the V1, and so needed cable routing paths, which when I modified it for the V2, became tool holders) So, two birds, one stone. I would also like to suggest 713 maker's (AKA travelphotog AKA Matthew) excellent hotend mount, which comes in E3D V6, SeemeCNC, and Prometheus flavors, in your choice of colors (I bet I know which one you'll go for), and which can accommodate several other hotends with custom length spacers, as it uses the groove mount (AKA J-head) standard. It's also faster to change them if you ever get to having more than one hotend. No nuts, no spacers to fiddle with (assuming you're using the same length for both), only three screws (either the top 3, for swapping in without changing spacer length, or the bottom 3, for changing out the spacers and mount)

I also suggest a heat spreader, either copper or aluminum. Either would work. Try for a flat one. If you can't manage that, I've been informed that 2+ layers of heavy duty aluminum foil, properly masked against shorts, work very well and add minimal cost and thermal mass.

If you are replacing the acyrlic though, I would suggest replacing the lower sections with a vented, printed design, with some fans to help cool the lower compartment, and a USB Keystone jack in one, so you won't have to worry as much about accidentally ripping the port off the rambo, or putting strain on it.

I've read of people warning about shorts with a heat spreader before, but I'm not sure I understand why there would be a potential hazard. All of the electronics connect to the bottom of the heated bed on my Rev 7. Is this a vestigial thing from earlier designs, or am I missing something?

[ccavanaugh]

If you plan on doing much in the way of ABS, or large parts, or exotic higher temperature filaments, I suggest a chamber as well. Heated by preference. I find the Raymond style enclosure will accomodate tools in the top brackets (It was intended for the V1, and so needed cable routing paths, which when I modified it for the V2, became tool holders) So, two birds, one stone. I would also like to suggest 713 maker's (AKA travelphotog AKA Matthew) excellent hotend mount, which comes in E3D V6, SeemeCNC, and Prometheus flavors, in your choice of colors (I bet I know which one you'll go for), and which can accommodate several other hotends with custom length spacers, as it uses the groove mount (AKA J-head) standard. It's also faster to change them if you ever get to having more than one hotend. No nuts, no spacers to fiddle with (assuming you're using the same length for both), only three screws (either the top 3, for swapping in without changing spacer length, or the bottom 3, for changing out the spacers and mount)

I also suggest a heat spreader, either copper or aluminum. Either would work. Try for a flat one. If you can't manage that, I've been informed that 2+ layers of heavy duty aluminum foil, properly masked against shorts, work very well and add minimal cost and thermal mass.

If you are replacing the acyrlic though, I would suggest replacing the lower sections with a vented, printed design, with some fans to help cool the lower compartment, and a USB Keystone jack in one, so you won't have to worry as much about accidentally ripping the port off the rambo, or putting strain on it.

I've read of people warning about shorts with a heat spreader before, but I'm not sure I understand why there would be a potential hazard. All of the electronics connect to the bottom of the heated bed on my Rev 7. Is this a vestigial thing from earlier designs, or am I missing something?

The heated beds contain vias that are sometimes difficult to see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Via_(electronics). If you short across these, you risk letting out the magic smoke. That is where the kapton tape or window tint come in handy to insulate against the shorts.

[Xenocrates]

Honestly I haven't taped or masked mine, but considering what some people have asked for help with, I try to cover my bases. There was an earlier version that had the majority of it's connections on top. I am tempted to give both the underside of my bed and the top of the Onyx a conformal coat though since we have some cans (dunno why, never used it before, and well, not a huge electronics person) I think that would be the best of both worlds, although it would be nice if the Onyx shipped with a conformal coat on top (it might, but it's hard to be sure. the traces not being visible makes me think that there is some form of coating over all the conductors. Would appreciate it if JJ or partdaddy ( or some other staffer) could clarify that)

[DGBK]

Ok. It looks like you mean the 7 holes near the Z axis and the 7 holes near the center. I suppose I'd need to cover the entire bed in Kapton to make it level?

[Aureus]

Sorry for not posting at all, been busy, and I come back to my printer and everytime I try to print the hotend platform keeps hitting the Y axis tower. So I redid the whole calibration process and that fixed it. Going to try to print the tool caddies again..

[Aureus]

Got the PEI plate on, now for the enclosure! I will post pics of the plate soon, along with the whole machine!

[Aureus]

Got my first successful print of the printer yesterday... At least I have learned what to do and what not to do!

[Windshadow]

I am at the point of sourcing the material for an enclosure and
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.a ... &catid=704
is rather expensive at about $41 a sheer so $123 for 3 sheets then another $38 for shipping and handling.
and of course I found this pre packaged filtering system
http://3dprintclean.com/scrubber-filtration.htm for another $200

needs a bit more research on my end or waiting for my tax refund before I pull the trigger.

Xeno using your modified mounts what are the dimensions of the 3 panels?

the local big box stores carry .093" lexan and I might be abel to source what need without being hammered by the shipping and handling.

[Xenocrates]

I'll see if I can't get back to you with better measurements tonight wind. I do wish that it was possible to get a shipping quote on the 4 foot square. It may be morning before I get a chance to work on the printer though. Would be interesting if that 200$ enclosure was large enough to fully enclose the printer, and didn't have a bad shipping charge.

[Windshadow]

Well the $200 is just for the scrubber to attach to your own enclosure
its $1200 for their largest enclosure and note the 5 or 6 accessories not included in that price so another $455 or so for those and say a 10 pack of filters for $260,
and the max hight for a printer in it 800mm and the RmaxV2 is 944mm or so not including the printer reel on top which would be moved outside the filter area anyway. but of course they do custom for those that win the lottery

Ability
​Our team can design, build, prototype, and manufacture, custom, small, and large scale filtration systems, enclosures, Inert environments, FDM, SLS and SLA 3D printers, CNC machines, and laser and plasma cutters, for the consumer or professional market.

which is way out of my price range even if they did one that fit
[img]https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0880/ ... 1444098186[/img]

https://3dprintclean.myshopify.com/coll ... -enclosure
Scrubber + Desktop800

This package includes the Scrubber and the Desktop800 enclosure.

Desktop800

The Desktop800 is an enclosure designed for the desktop.

​Features

User selectable, printer thermal protection, with automatic power disruption
40mm Black Anodized Aluminum Frame
Five Black Anodized Aluminum Door Frames with 3mm Acrylic Window
Locking Door Handles with Master Key
Positioning Torque Hinges
Heat Dissipating Frame
Stackable
Reduces 3D Printer noise
Brush cable seal for 3D Printer power, USB, and other cables
110-220AC, 50/60Hz​
12V10A, 120W​​
Height 960mm, Width 880mm, Depth: 880mm
Maximum printer size: Height 800mm, Width 800mm, Depth: 800mm​​
Accessories

LED Kit
Rapid Heat Kit
Stackable Kit
Casters
Spool Holder
Assembly

Assembly required
Packing

Delivered in 3 boxes
Weight: 53kg

[AlanZ]

Does anyone have a link to the brass inserts that are usable in the Raymond bracket design? I think they are 1/4-20 press fit, but it would be nice to not have to guess at the source.

[Xenocrates]

Unfortunately, I don't have a link, as mine have been sitting in a drawer for x>5 years, but the oneshttp://www.jhpfasteners.com/blind-self- ... =&filter9= here should work. I personally used aluminum ones, cause it's what I had. Those sets are steel.

And sorry for not getting back to you with those measurements yet wind, it's been a bit of a crazy weekend, as we're currently finishing a production sprint on some laser cut stuff for wargaming. When I go out to grab the part off the printer in the morning I'll see if I can't remember to measure them.

[Windshadow]

No big Rush Xeno, I am doing this for fun and not to a deadline....

I like to keep learning complex new skills and keeping old ones in working condition as a way of staving off the effects of age as long as I can. build ing this printer has let me revive a lot of them that I have not used in decades such as electronics skills like soldering to a modern circuit board.

[Xenocrates]

Ok. Panels are about 28 and 5/8 inches tall, with the narrow ones being ~3.75 inches, and the wide ones being ~14.75 inches

[Windshadow]

Thanks, thats just what i need
I found this at Lowes
LEXAN 0.093-in x 28-in x 30-in Clear for $33.48 each with no shipping charges, so $105 inc sales tax... its a bit short and a bit thin but I can adjust for that and it seems to be the most economical source I can find locally AS I can get all the parts out of three sheets of it.
If I go online i found this guy at eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/lexan-polycarbo ... XQTZhR0Xq1 for $28.50 each and free cutting to size I guess that would be the best choice... but $22.68 for the shipping so $108 there.. and I end up with a few off cuts for future use....I want to check the local lumberyards as well as they sell lean for glazing uses.

[Windshadow]

i have some of the 1/4 20threaded inserts that say they are for molded in use but i thought i could set them in the abs with a soldering iron
[img]http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51%2BzWRb1pdL.jpg[/img]
http://www.amazon.com/Pem-Molded--Threa ... +blind+nut
Glad I have a dozen of them and I don't have to buy them at this $30 a dozen price.
to help others I did a search and found these for $3.25 for 25 [img]http://i21.geccdn.net/site/images/n-pic ... 0-4-BR.jpg[/img]
at http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/faste ... s-260-4-br
or the same item from New Egg for $7.25 for the 25 count If I did not have some in the shop I would go for the Global ones but they may have a minimum order size in which case new egg would be your best bet

[AlanZ]

I drilled most of the holes through and create threads by using 1/4-20 T-nuts that I modified to fit,and glued in with duco cement. Some of the holes in the top brackets required a different technique, that involved a little machining of the t-nuts on my metal lathe. An interesting project... The thermo plastic brass inserts would have been easier, but the parts I used were available locally.

[geneb]

Head over to McMaster-Carr's website and look up "heat set inserts". They're not that expensive and you can insert them using a soldering iron instead of their insanely over-priced tools.

I use them frequently in my projects. If the hole is properly sized (the page has hole sizes for each type), the part will break before the insert comes out.

g.

[screener]

Does anyone have a link to the plastic corner strips that people have been using to seal the corners of the poly panels?
TIA

[AlanZ]

Screener,

Slip-On Plastic Piano Hinge from McMaster-Carr, part number 1793A61.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/122/2956/=115u92m