Preparing to jump into a max v2. Newb questions

[Ail]

Hello all. I have been doing my homework and I am about ready to pull the trigger on the Rostock Max v2 for my first 3d printer but had a few questions before I throw down the cash.

After reading several forum posts from multiple sites it seems like deltas are not recommended to people as a first 3d printer. After checking some build threads I have found enough first timers building these without issue, so I am not really concerned about difficulty etc. (I am very familiar/comfortable with working on PCs and phones etc.) Having said that, as a first timer would it be best to just build the kit completely before moving on to modifications? I get the feeling I am going to want to start tinkering as soon as I get a few prints under my belt and would probably save some disassembly time by doing them before hand. (Upgraded power supply, heat spreader for bed, carbon arms, full metal hot end etc.)

Some things I would like to be able to create range from cookie cutters and funnels for the girlfriend to parts for my VW truck. (gauge pods and other interior pieces, maybe some brackets or small body trim pieces) Should I be focusing on ABS and an enclosure for this type of work, or am I a bit overzealous with expecting to make production/functional quality pieces with this type of printer? (it seems resin based would be more suited but $$$$$)
I'm fairly environmentally conscious as well so if there are options for recycling or using non toxic filament I would like to be able to use those materials where appropriate.

Also when thinking about build volume and my first printer, why should I go max v2 versus something like one of the cheaper prusa i3 solutions with 10 - 12" square build volumes?

I have more questions but will spare you for now any insight or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

[KAS]

The rostock v2 was my first printer. Having to build the kit fundamentally gives you an understanding of how to maintain and mod your printer. I would definitely start with the stock build, especially with the changes SeeMeCNC has made to the kits recently. I've yet to use a Cartesian printer, although I'm building my third Delta printer. I just prefer the look over the other.

[Xenocrates]

Some answers and opinions to address your questions.

A) Yes, delta's are somewhat challenging as a first printer. They require a style of calibration that few others do, but once it's done, they tend to hold it well (YMMV, but that's my experience, even with large temperature swings in a non-humidity controlled environment)

B) Build the kit stock first. Previously I would have suggested buying a better power supply before assembly. This is no longer a factor with the new PSU. Most mod instructions assume you have a working printer to start with, and it can be incredibly frustrating to change 12 things at once, and then have to step by step undo them until you get a working machine. Get it working and calibrated before you futz too much with mods (PEI and a foil heat spreader might be exceptions to that, as they don't touch the mechanical, electrical, or electronic portions of the build, just where the Z height is, and what the bed surface is)

C) For cookie cutters and other food contact stuff, you want Nylon. For parts and brackets, ABS and nylon are reasonable. You don't need an enclosure for nylon or ABS, but it helps with large parts and cosmetic finishes. For nylon you need either to buy Bridge filament (which can be expensive) or get an all metal hotend. Many people like PLA for other cosmetic parts.

D) There are recycled filaments, although I haven't used them. There are also shredders and extruders for making your own filament. PLA is also a non-toxic organically based plastic (I think you can make it from milk, actually)

E) I like the Max. It's build volume is second to none. It doesn't have the largest footprint, but I just printed a CD case sized part, and even with PEI on the bed, by the time it was finishing the second layer it was warping (the enclosure I have is not heated yet, and the ambient temp was ~8C) That vertical area helps a lot, as you can have a smaller footprint and give layers less time to cool and warp before you reheat them And delta's are about the easiest to expand the Z height on.

F) regarding cheaper kits, to a degree you get what you pay for. Make Magazine did a printer comparison and thought very highly of the Max's bang for buck. If you buy a printer that's cheap, you need to either replace the cheap/unsuitable parts, or live with the lower quality. If you buy them, you pay retail for those parts. A manufacturer can get bulk rates and give you a better deal when you account for things like shipping, invested time, and fiddling. Buy a printer that works and is good quality. SeeMeCNC makes good ones. So does other places. Do your research. I feel the Max is the best printer available in it's price range for a large variety of work loads. I hope you'll feel the same and buy one yourself. They really are very nice (and pretty) machines.

[Ail]

Thanks for taking the time to help me out! Gonna just bite the bullet and order this week. Thanks again!

[Tincho85]

Go ahead and buy it, it's an awesome printer! The Rostock Max was my first 3D printer too.
It's customizable, the community is very helpful and the user-guide manual is one the best I've ever seen.

Get 3 steel and rubber Vibration Dampers (astrosyn dampers) if you can. It's a huge change regarding noise.
I bought mine from this site: http://www.tridprinting.com/Electronics/

Oh and Deltas is a one way trip

[barry99705]

Go ahead and buy it, it's an awesome printer! The Rostock Max was my first 3D printer too.
It's customizable, the community is very helpful and the user-guide manual is one the best I've ever seen.

Get 3 steel and rubber Vibration Dampers (astrosyn dampers) if you can. It's a huge change regarding noise.
I bought mine from this site: http://www.tridprinting.com/Electronics/

Oh and Deltas is a one way trip

Hey, thanks for the link to the dampers!

@Ail,
Take your time on the wiring!! Figure out which wire version you have before you start, I didn't do this and ended up missing a step. Pulling an additional pair of wires once you have the printer almost finished is a bitch! Missed the hot end thermistor pair.

[Eaglezsoar]

Thanks for taking the time to help me out! Gonna just bite the bullet and order this week. Thanks again!

Congratulations and there are thousands of us who knows that you are not making a mistake.

[Ail]

Thanks for all the comments and the link to the dampers. If it's going to take a full day to print something less noise will be a big bonus.

Is there anything extra I should be adding to the cart from seemecnc along with the v2 kit? Got to pick my ABS color but other than that maybe some of the quick connects?

**Edit** never mind on the quick connects, I was thinking these were for wiring as I have seen a lot of discussion about using different connectors. I'm no master with a soldering iron so was thinking I might be better off with some different wiring options.

[Xenocrates]

I might pick up a set of nozzles (unless you plan to swap to a different hotend quickly), two more layer fans for symmetrical cooling, and a spare thermistor or two. Perhaps also a spare glass bed.

None of these are needed, but they help with the experience and hassle.

[Tincho85]

If I were to build a new printer, I would probably use one 12v 40w Heater Cartridge instead of the heating resistors. If possible, avoid RTV silicone. It's messy, looks bad and it's actually a thermal insulator.
Check this video:
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fdb3nyu29ko[/youtube]

The screw-on thermistor is great (sold by RP One Labs), I'm using them but it's not really necessary.
Just use kapton tape instead of the silicone.

[Ail]

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Do the nozzles tend to wear pretty quick or was that more for playing with the different sizes? I do like the looks of the cartridge and screw in option. I don't think I have the right taps but that should not be hard to track down, really looks like a much cleaner/solid install.

[teoman]

There are cheap tap kits available. Get one set and choose your favourite screw size (mine is m3) and when my parts need it i make hole tap it and use the screws. Will come in handy later on.

My set was 11 usd and had 7 taps from 1mm to 3.5 mm

[Xenocrates]

Nozzles do not wear quickly with most filaments, that's primarily for playing with sizes and qualities. Carbon fiber and glass filled filaments are really abrasive though. 250g's completely ruined the geometry and surface of an E3D brass nozzle. For standard filaments, you should be fine. Some other composite filaments will cause wear, although slower, and I suggest having a second one of whatever your most common nozzle size is, once you know it.

Although I'm one to talk, considering that I have 2 of most nozzle sizes for the E3D's, and hardened steel nozzles for my most common sizes. It helps that when one is really crapped up, I can pull and replace it, then torch it clean and soak it before it has to go back into service.

[Eaglezsoar]

I agree with Tincho85.

[Ail]

Great! These all look like simple changes to implement during the build. Going to place my order for the printer today and hunt down the rest of the bits over the weekend. Really appreciate all of the input and suggestions, keep em coming if you think of anything additional. Can't wait to start digging into this thing.

[Ail]

Kit arrived today along with the additions (dampers, cartridges, threaded thermistors etc.) The amount of parts is a bit daunting but after reading through the instructions I feel pretty comfortable. Will have to start a build thread but I'll throw out on more question here.

I have a few random cans of spray paint and plastidip laying around. Do people just spray the edges of all the laser cut pieces or just the main top bottom pieces? I'd like to not take everything out before hand to avoid any losses or searching later. Thanks again!

[Windshadow]

There are cheap tap kits available. Get one set and choose your favourite screw size (mine is m3) and when my parts need it i make hole tap it and use the screws. Will come in handy later on.

My set was 11 usd and had 7 taps from 1mm to 3.5 mm

my advice is to avoid cheap taps they are prone to snapping off in your part leaving you with a bigger mess and the cheap sets are not likely to have the 3 types per size of first taper, second plug and the bottoming... for tapping the thermresnstor hole in the heater block to 3mm .5 i started with a plug and then the bottoming as the hole is rather shallow for a starting with a full taper
You don't have to go crazy with top of the line taps but imports from Asia in the bargain price area should be avoided
this is a good price for the set of three of decent quality taps under $10 but the picture they use is for a set of larger 12mm 1.7 pitch metric taps not the 3mm
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003K1 ... ge_o01_s00
[img]http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/7 ... L1500_.jpg[/img]

[e_hutch]

if you are using the vibration dampeners, make sure you offset the pulley on the stepper motors enough before you set them in!

[Ail]

Thanks for the heads up, getting to that point of the build now. (Or well in the next couple nights, just slowly putting in an hour or 2 a night) Was going to install one normal, then one with the damper, take measurements, and adjust. Or should I just measure the damper and move the gear out X mm? Not sure how exact I need to be with the offset (assume there is a little play)

[barry99705]

Thanks for the heads up, getting to that point of the build now. (Or well in the next couple nights, just slowly putting in an hour or 2 a night) Was going to install one normal, then one with the damper, take measurements, and adjust. Or should I just measure the damper and move the gear out X mm? Not sure how exact I need to be with the offset (assume there is a little play)

I used the depth gauge of my calipers to set the depth. Since the normal spot is flush with the motor shaft, I just measured the damper, then used the depth part to set the new position. Place the end on the end of the shaft and pull the bearing out to the calipers. Easy peasy. You could do the same with a small bolt and nut. Run the bolt through the nut the same distance as the thickness as the damper and do the same. That make sense?

[Ail]

Got it, thanks for the tip! Was forgetting I already knew the position of the gear from assembling the motors earlier.

[Ail]

Well, did not get short hardware for attaching dampers so will have to hunt some down / order. I magically had a couple in the random screw pile but not enough.

[PannDemic]

I am also getting ready to build my first 3D printer as well, it gets here on the 8th!

For the upgrades to the stock hot end, is this the right Thermistor and heater?

Any other must have first timer upgrades?

My plan now is to go with the dampers and the stock hot end upgrades.

Thanks so much guys!

[Xenocrates]

I would say that while not must haves, a heatspreader and PEI plate will be major improvements, as would be an enclosure. However, as the enclosure would need printed parts, you can't just buy one. Either Jfettig or Raymonds designs are good for that, and both can be found by searching on the forums.

[Eaglezsoar]

I would say that while not must haves, a heatspreader and PEI plate will be major improvements, as would be an enclosure. However, as the enclosure would need printed parts, you can't just buy one. Either Jfettig or Raymonds designs are good for that, and both can be found by searching on the forums.

http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5695

http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=7149

Above links are for the Raymonds and JFettig enclosures.