"Ultra" Max. Questions for my new build.

[DerStig]

Okay, so I've been pouring over the archives and frankly that may have been a mistake because now I'm freaking confused. Mhackney and 626Pilots I'm looking at you two, I have a migraine now thank you.

Please talk me into or out of this and let me know why. Here's what I'm thinking of building.

Trick Laser Metal Max
Trick Trucks
Trick Arms
E3D v6 Print head
K type thermocouple for print head
Bondtech Extruder
.9 Degree NEMA17 steppers
20 tooth drive cogs
SeeMeSNC Heat bed and snowflake mount
FSR level sensing
Duet controller board
PanelDue with 7" touchscreen
850Watt ATX power supply
LEDS on the printhead and the frame


What am I missing? How to best do it? what would you change?

Thanks

[teoman]

That configuration will give you a fairly sweet printer.

I personally would not use the atx power supply. And i would add pei to the mix.


In ordert to receive a proper answer, what are your expectations from 3d printing technology? what do you expect of this printer? And what are your expectations of the building process? Bolt together and off you go printing commercial parts in 2 days, probably not. 2 weeks, achievable.

Do you already have a 3d printer? Have you used one?

You should consider an enclosure aswell.

Check out jfettig and bot's printers aswell.

[Polygonhell]

It's a nice combination, but your going to have difficulty getting support if you have issues during the build.
If you've never built and setup a printer before you'll still have the same set of frustration that every one new to these boxes has.
I believe the Metal Max frame is not complete and needs printed plastic parts to build a functional printer, how are you going to source those?
Personally I'd go with one of the industrial type power supplies over an ATX supply (too many of them have issues when running printers), and I would probably use a Silicon Heater with PEI on Mic-6 for the bed, you'd have to figure out some way to mount it.

[DerStig]

Thanks for the advice so far. This isn't my first build and already have built and heavily modified a Rostock max. My use is for POC before I start to machine stuff out of metal. So yeah I'm going into this with my eyes open

[forrie]

I'd go with 16 teeth on the stepper pulleys. Better resolution.

[DerStig]

I'd go with 16 teeth on the stepper pulleys. Better resolution.

Hows that? 16 tooth pulley is 5184 steps per revolution

20 tooth pulley is 6480 per revolution

[Xenocrates]

The steppers are rated in degrees of angle. With .9 degree steppers, that's always going to be 400 steps per revolution. Now, with 20 tooth pulleys, each revolution will move it 20 teeth, or 40MM. 16 tooth pulleys will give you 32MM/rev. .1MM/step, versus .08. It's a small, but potentially notable change, if you run at very small layer heights often. It will also develop more usable torque, as there's a smaller lever arm for the force to act on your motor (I may be utterly backwards here, but I don't think so). The downside is less clearance between the belt and the towers, unless you add additional idlers, which adds more complexity. You could also get 14 tooth pulleys (which increase the need for idlers) to get a resolution of .07 MM/step. Now, when you add microstepping in, then you get even more accuracy, but this is just to give you a general idea of why you might want smaller pulleys.

[DerStig]

The steppers are rated in degrees of angle. With .9 degree steppers, that's always going to be 400 steps per revolution. Now, with 20 tooth pulleys, each revolution will move it 20 teeth, or 40MM. 16 tooth pulleys will give you 32MM/rev. .1MM/step, versus .08. It's a small, but potentially notable change, if you run at very small layer heights often. It will also develop more usable torque, as there's a smaller lever arm for the force to act on your motor (I may be utterly backwards here, but I don't think so). The downside is less clearance between the belt and the towers, unless you add additional idlers, which adds more complexity. You could also get 14 tooth pulleys (which increase the need for idlers) to get a resolution of .07 MM/step. Now, when you add microstepping in, then you get even more accuracy, but this is just to give you a general idea of why you might want smaller pulleys.

Interesting, thanks for clearing that up for me.