First 3D Printer Build

[cambo3d]

this is where my knowledge stops.. i'm still learning at the calibration stage.

Man, but your prints are looking good!

man my prints suck, those aren't good to me. but compared to yours mine are good =p

[MorbidSlowBurn]

What material is the filament and what temp are you printing. I just ran poygonhell's calibration yesterday and had my temp too low (added a PEEK cooling fan and it cooled the hot end also). I got what looked like poor feed rate but it really was the temp that was the main issue. If you have a thermocouple measure the nozzle temp and let us know.

Your step/mm look good for a 16 micro-step board.

Post your temp settings and material from your slicer. You want to be able to feed the filament by hand through the heated nozzle with ease.

Don't change the extrusion multiplier until you get a consistent feed rate. Also make sure retraction and destring is 0 or off during your calibration prints. Don't want to add too many variables.

[aerouta]

With the extruder temp set to 240c, I get a tip reading at 215c. I do have retrection turned of.

[MorbidSlowBurn]

Based on the thermocouple reading I suspect you need to bump up your temp a little. Make sure you have good contact with the thermocouple when you are taking the temp. I extrude ABS at a nozzle temp of about 230. What you have to watch for is the PEEK section of the hot end you don't want it to get too hot (if it hits 260C you risk melting it). I like to measure the hot end with a thermocouple right near the PEEK section, this way I know I won't have a problem.

Easiest way to check temp is to disconnect the Bowden tube from the extruder. Get the extruder to temp then try to feed filament by hand into the top of the extruder. It shouldn't have a whole lot of resistance. If it does bump the temp up 5C and try again. Each time check the temp at the nozzle and PEEK area. You want the temp to be so it flows but not so hot to discolor or burn. You really want the lowest temp that it will flow.

Again be careful when you increase temp so you don't damage the PEEK section.

PLA uses lower temps.

Also any fans pointed at the hot end will impact your temps. I runs fan pointed at the PEEK section just like mhackney. I had to reposition after I first installed to keep it from cooling the nozzle too much.

[aerouta]

All my prints are coming out the same way with the patterned layers of little to no filament. I did a quick test on the extruded. It turns out the timing of the bad layers corresponds/coincides to the revolutions of the extruder main shaft. I guess I need to take apart my extrude for the 10th time....

[MorbidSlowBurn]

Unless you see slipping in the extruder there is no reason to disassemble. I really think you need to adjust temp. Only thing you need to disconnect is the tube from the quick connect on the top of the extruder. Then just heat extruder and feed by hand till it flows well. Just follow my last post so nothing gets damaged.

[mhackney]

This were not fun.. a lot of sanding and checking. I had thought I would use a dremel for this but after using it on the first one I decided against it on the the rest.

I tried to be really careful during the sanding process. I didnt not want to over sand these. But what happens if you end up with more play then you wanted? Is there a way to build out that surface or do you have to order replacement parts?

You can use very thin shims of plastic of phosphor bronze. McMaster Carr and other places sell these or you can cut/punch them out of aluminum beverage cans or thin plastic stock. I keep .001" washers on hand in various sizes to use as shims in my reels. They also have the advantage that the Acetal/Delrin or Nylon ones are low friction too.

[aerouta]

I checked that and it seemed fine, I will check it again. But I do not think it is by chance the gap matches the revs of the extruder.

[mhackney]

I just did a quick read through, what firmware are you using?

[aerouta]

Marlin 1.0.0

well not sure where to find this

but this what was in the REAMME.md

WARNING:
--------
THIS IS RELEASE CANDIDATE 2 FOR MARLIN 1.0.0

by seemecnc

***This firmware is modified for use with Rostock MAX and similar***

It is a combination of

https://github.com/jcrocholl/Marlin
https://github.com/tonokip/Marlin

and other tweaks/changes

The configuration is now split in two files
Configuration.h for the normal settings
Configuration_adv.h for the advanced settings

Gen7T is not supported.

[JakeCShake]

The guys at SeeMe CNC *might* replace them for you.......

[aerouta]

after taking apart the extruder this is what I got.

When I removed the extruded I slowly turned the gears trying to apply contanst torque with my fingers. In doing so I noticed a portion required more torque to turn. I took it apart reset everything and greased up the gears. It seemed to help.

[aerouta]

getting better

[aerouta]

Any thoughts on why some corners pull up from the build plate, and how to fix this?

[mhackney]

Yes, this is one of the more challenging aspects of printing, getting good first layer stick. It depends on the material you are printing. PLA on clean (wash with alcohol) blue tape works great. ABS on hairspray or ABS glue works great. I describe all of this in my build thread or search here and the web.

A lot of sticking problems may be related to not having the z set properly. Both too thick and too thin a first layer is problematic.

[aerouta]

The you have a link to it in your build thread... Needle in a haystack.

[aerouta]

Just finished reprinting the test cube. Here are some pictures...

Looks like I am still extruding a little to much filament. I may step down my multiplier a tad. Also it seems like I got the "blues". I'll be trouble shooting that tomorrow if I get the time. Man, I thought I sanded those suckers smooth. From the prints it looks like not all the arms are problematic so I will need to narrow it down.

[mhackney]

This is looking much better. How carefully did you measure your filament diameter and enter it into your slicer? What is the material and temps? Also, what was your speed on this print?

It looks like ABS to me. I would start by making sure your filament diameter is set. Slow down. And then raise your temp 5°C and test. What does the bottom look like?

It also helps to pick a much simpler object to print that doesn't take so much time - you want to get as much feedback and tweak parameters as quickly as possible. That's what the Z Calibration Thing I made allows but there are others. S

[aerouta]

This is looking much better. How carefully did you measure your filament diameter and enter it into your slicer? What is the material and temps? Also, what was your speed on this print?

I tried to measure the filament very carefully. But using calipers to measure filament diameter is just not very accurate. At the same point on the filament it is possible to get different readings. I wonder if it is possible to measure a fixed length of filament, 12 or 24in chop it up and melt it down in a graduated cylinder?? Just thinking.

It looks like ABS to me. I would start by making sure your filament diameter is set. Slow down. And then raise your temp 5°C and test. What does the bottom look like?

Yes I am using ABS. Currently my filament is set to 1.75 with a multiplier set to 0.88 based on polygonhell’s extruder calibration. Extruder temp is at 250 and bed is 80.

It also helps to pick a much simpler object to print that doesn't take so much time - you want to get as much feedback and tweak parameters as quickly as possible. That's what the Z Calibration Thing I made allows but there are others. S

Do you have a file for the Z calibration?

[cambo3d]

those numbers seem to match my current numbers using filament from seemecnc. Since there seems to be some consistency there, Maybe we could start doing a step by step calibration guide with better set of fixed numbers to get everyone going. http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... uide#p7973

[mhackney]

Ok, firstly, it's the filament that is variable diameter and probably not a problem with your instrument! Take a few measurements along a 1meter length and average. That will get you in the ball park. I would wager it will be less than 1.75mm - so change that and test first before playing with multipliers.

250°C is too high if that is accurate. I would suggest backing down in 5°C increments until you get good flow at the lowest temp.

The Z calibration file is posted in my build thread but easy to find with the Sticky post in the Rostock thread. (shortcut: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... t=90#p5330)

[mhackney]

Forgot to add - you are using the flat part of the calipers and not the sharp part right? This is a common mistake, the sharp edges easily deform the plastic.

[aerouta]

Remeasured the filament, getting 1.737 (avg)

on another note.... What does this mean.. bed issues?

[Polygonhell]

What are you printing on?
Looks like the bed isn't flat, but it's unlikely if you're printing on glass.
Could be you need to re calibrate, but the difference looks large for such a small area.

[aerouta]

yes, i'm printing on glass