Another rostock max build

[cambo3d]

cambo3d and others, I HIGHLY recommend that you contact SeeMeCNC support directly and not make requests in posts. They do not monitor this forum on a daily basis. Simply check the member list and sort by last visit time and you will see what I mean. Even if they did visit everyday, the volume of posts would make it difficult for them to find requests like this. Email customer support!

Cheers,
Michael

I have micheal, just getting a little impatient waiting for a response. by the way, you got any of those 25mm fans yet? I wanna get one for my hotend

[cambo3d]

Does anyone know if there is a fan output for cooling the rambo? I would like to get a fan to circulate air around my rambo board. I have the 1.1b board but the pictures on the wiki doesn't show this connector. its says fan-2 right next to it, so i'm assuming its for a rambo cooling fan or is it for a printing fan?(circled in red below)

edit: never mind, I think if found my answer i believe thats a cooling fan connector for cooling printed parts, not a connector for running a cooling fan for the rambo.
so i'll just run a cooling fan for the rambo off my 12v accessory fuse block.

[Flateric]

Isn't there one on the lower right corner area of the board labelled 12v aux out?

[cambo3d]

Isn't there one on the lower right corner area of the board labelled 12v aux out?

your absolutely right, i just checked, but they didnt include any headers for it. darn. rather than remove this thing to solder in one connector i'll just use my fuse block.

[Polygonhell]

I run mine directly off a spare 12V line from the PSU.

[cambo3d]

here are some photos of my onyx after running it with the 24v power supply for about a week now (running between 80-110). I took it off to check and do couple of other things.
as you can see no signs of delamination/problems

[mhackney]

Thanks cambo3D. I check mine weekly too and so far it has been fine also. My top temp is 85°C.

[cambo3d]

I find this quite interesting, I installed the boro glass today heated it to temp and surprisingly it sits level. Previously I was having problems with the aluminum. This kind of throws the onyx bowing out of the window

I have some theories on why, but what are your opinions on this??

star is flat

flat when cold

flat at temp

Here is my theory, the onyx may bow but since the boro sits on top attached by clips that allow some expansion, the bow doesn't affect the boro and sits level???? downsides maybe keeping the temperature even, which aluminum did a better job

next maybe try the aluminum with the clips (provided the aluminum is still flat) and see if it stays flat also. edit: unfortunately my aluminum now has a bow in it, so i'll have test this theory out when a new sheet comes in. originally the aluminum was semiflat, but being on the machine for more than 2 weeks now and going through a number of heating and cooling cycles, has left a bow in it.

[cambo3d]

Ive been trying to track down another issue, my infills aren't comming out like they should. I've checked the rostock arms and sanded. They all move freely with little resistance. I printed a 4th calibration cube today and still having issues.

could this be caused by tower misalignment? ALSO, seems like the bottom layers infill go right to the edge, at the end of the print i get this.

[MorbidSlowBurn]

When you checked your arms did you have each joint fully assembled? How much the screw are tightened make a huge impact on friction of the joint. I personally worked a single end of each arm completely before moving to the next. My measure of a good joint was when an arm was connected only at one end it would hang straight down under gravity for both vertical and side to side motions. I tested this way for all 12 joints. I put the arm in the various positions at different heights to check if there was friction at any orientation of the angle.

Looking at your print it does look like there is still friction.

To be thorough did you also calibrate your extruder based on the sticky that polygonhell wrote? Has some impact on fill completion but based on other posts and experience a majority of your gaps appear to be from friction.

[cambo3d]

When you checked your arms did you have each joint fully assembled? How much the screw are tightened make a huge impact on friction of the joint. I personally worked a single end of each arm completely before moving to the next. My measure of a good joint was when an arm was connected only at one end it would hang straight down under gravity for both vertical and side to side motions. I tested this way for all 12 joints. I put the arm in the various positions at different heights to check if there was friction at any orientation of the angle.

Looking at your print it does look like there is still friction.

To be thorough did you also calibrate your extruder based on the sticky that polygonhell wrote? Has some impact on fill completion but based on other posts and experience a majority of your gaps appear to be from friction.

I can flick all my u joints with the tip of my finger and they will keep spinning on there own. Arms freely move no friction there.

[cambo3d]

this was after after extruder calibration, before i printed the forth calibration cube above.

[Polygonhell]

The 20x20x10 cube looks good, but from the other cube you have some backlash somewhere, it could be in the arm joints and it could be in the belts.
Check the belts the most likely damage is going to be at the stepper when the head is near 0. That's on the inside of the tower about 1/3 of the way up when homed.
Be careful not to go too tight with the belts, you can break the internal fibers at which point they are just very springy and introduce additional backlash. I did this trying to chase an issue where one of my belts was damaged in a head crash, initially I had a small amount of backlash introduced by the damaged belt, which I made considerably worse by over tightening all the belts, ended up replacing them all.
MHackney's test print isn't a bad way to try and narrow this down, I personally print a large triangle with edges aligned with the pillars to try and determine which pillars are affected, you have to watch the infill go down and figure out which pillar is more likely responsible.

[cambo3d]

i haven't checked my belts. I need to check those I did have a head crash, because I forgot the set the eeprom heights correctly on initial calibration.

i'll check the belts today. hopefully thats the issue.

[cambo3d]

I took the belts off to check, there is some fraying but the teeth are still intact, i ordered another set to replace anyway.

bad section

good section

[cambo3d]

after seeing apachexmd's problem almost similar to mine.

I decided to take my rostock apart, I found the same issue he had. contacting seemecnc right away!
no matter where i rotate this, it's always off alignment. I'm gonna do some further investigating. I believe this is part of my calibration issues.

after taking a couple more measurements and comparing i'm convinced my frame is off alignment. Wished i would have done this before I assembled it.

EDIT: 4/4/2013
THIS IS MAKES A DIFFERENCE IN HOW LEVEL AND SQUARE THE MACHINE IS ON FINAL ASSEMBLY. I WOULD SUGGEST TO ANYONE BEFORE ACTUALLY ASSEMBLING THE MACHINE, TO CHECK FOR ALIGNMENT OF THE LASER CUT PARTS. I'M WAITING FOR ANOTHER FULL FRAME KIT FROM TRICKLASER.COM. TO SEE IF THEIR KIT IS ANY BETTER; IF NOT, I'LL HAVE TO COME UP WITH SOMETHING TO KEEP THE BASE FLAT/LEVEL OR JUST REMAKE THE BASE ALL TOGETHER ON MY CNC ROUTER.

assembly suggestions:

check the alignment of all parts, especially all critical to alignment of the towers and the bed platform. the top plate needs to be aligned with the top of the bottom base plate (the labeled circular plate), I found that these two parts are not symmetrical, when I compared the extrusion alignment slots in the melamine, I found they were off unless you rotate it to a some what matching position, Even then you still have to sand a little for an even fit.My first kit was way off, replacement parts were better but still not symmetrical.

For the bed platform, make sure that all the individual vertical partitions are all the same height, if not, this will cause warping of your bed platform when tightening down the assembly screws.
My power supply retainer partition was way off, to a point causing extreme warping. Not only was this partition not the same height, slots on the partition needed to be sanded smaller to prevent it from warping the other partitions. there is major discrepancy in the fit of this particular piece. it is not dimensioned correctly. unfortunately this part was not included in my seemecnc care package of replacement parts. my workaround for this is to just leave it in the slots not tightened down, the slots itself will keep the partition from coming out. I would remove this altogether but it keeps the power supply in place.

[Jimustanguitar]

Installed and ready for cable connections. On the adapter as viewed from my photo. The top 10 pin header is your A connector from the lcd ( "A" connector meaning left connector on lcd) and the bottom is your B connector from the lcd.
[

I hope they silk screen A and B on the next version of the adapter. Maybe on the back of the LCD too since there isn't documentation that says so. It makes sense that A is on top, but you never know. I'd hate to burn up a component by guessing.

[cambo3d]

this is the reply i got from john at seemecnc "If you connect A to the top and the LCD doesn't light up, then switch them around. It doesn't hurt them to be connected backwards, just the LCD will not light up"

[cambo3d]

I'm going to try integrate these hall effect switches into my reassembly. The limit switches and the screws are bit finicky when it comes time to adjust z height. I'm hoping these will be better, accuracy wise. I had these in my electronics pile from other projects. http://sccatalog.honeywell.com/pdbdownl ... 13A-10.pdf

[Eaglezsoar]

I took the belts off to check, there is some fraying but the teeth are still intact, i ordered another set to replace anyway.

bad section

belt fraying.jpg

good section

good section of belt.jpg

Did you check around for a source for the belts and could share with us or did you get them from Seemecnc? I was just wondering because it
would be nice to keep a spare set on hand.

Carl

[cambo3d]

im getting them from seemecnc

[MorbidSlowBurn]

The timing belts are GT2 2mm belts 6mm. Mhackney mentions them in a post and that you can get them from SDP/SI.

[cambo3d]

kudos, to seemecnc, they are shipping a replacement set for my misaligned parts. I ordered a frame set from tricklaser.com to try out also, Might actually end up with 2 rostocks after i'm done building..
Reflecting back on ideas that I put a hold to, I've been working on modified upper idler belt tensioner mounts so I can get my turnbuckle idea to work. http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 8&start=90 Still plan to use off the shelf parts. Stock mount works but if you tighten the screw to much is damages the melamine. With this setup it shouldn't do that.

If anyone wants a set. I'll see if can get someone to cut a larger run of these after I've tested them. I can put together a plug and play kit or you can have someone laser cut a set for you. I'll post the final dxf file here and other parts needed. Once everything is tested.

[ApacheXMD]

Good for seemecnc! Sucks that you have to build it all over again but at least it should be flat and straight this time around. I like all the tensioner ideas too. Keep it up! (so i can steal them

[Eaglezsoar]

kudos, to seemecnc, they are shipping a replacement set for my misaligned parts. I ordered a frame set from tricklaser.com to try out also, Might actually end up with 2 rostocks after i'm done building..
Reflecting back on ideas that I put a hold to, I've been working on modified drawings for the upper idler belt tensioner mounts so I can get my turnbuckle idea to work. http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 8&start=90 Still plan to use off the shelf parts. Stock mount works but if you tighten the screw to much is damages the melamine. With this setup it shouldn't do that.

modified idler mount.jpg

I'll see if can get someone to cut a larger run of these so if anyone wants a set, I can get a plug in play kit together.

Do you have any ideas of what to make the new part from? I would be interested in purchasing a set if they become available.

Carl