ROSTOCK Max V2 Big Arc on Y Tower [SOLVED]

[rhoded]

Hello forum,

I'm pretty happy with my ROSTOCK Max V2 (and even prouder to have put the thing together) but I can't print anything larger than 1/3 of the diameter of the bed or so because I have this huge arc on my Y tower. This is the biggest issue, even if there are some other smaller things I wish I could fix. I have tried calibrating many times but this problem persists. The other two towers seem to be alright but if I set the maximum Y tower hot end distance to match the center, the hot end runs way too close to the hot bed when it arcs and doesn't even lay any plastic down.

Does this mean I have to check the tower is orthogonal to the hot bed? Would that also explain why my X tower's stop screw is set way lower than my other two towers? Are there any additional calibrations I can do to fix or measure this? Thanks for any and all help.

[barry99705]

Hello forum,

I'm pretty happy with my ROSTOCK Max V2 (and even prouder to have put the thing together) but I can't print anything larger than 1/3 of the diameter of the bed or so because I have this huge arc on my Y tower. This is the biggest issue, even if there are some other smaller things I wish I could fix. I have tried calibrating many times but this problem persists. The other two towers seem to be alright but if I set the maximum Y tower hot end distance to match the center, the hot end runs way too close to the hot bed when it arcs and doesn't even lay any plastic down.

Does this mean I have to check the tower is orthogonal to the hot bed? Would that also explain why my X tower's stop screw is set way lower than my other two towers? Are there any additional calibrations I can do to fix or measure this? Thanks for any and all help.

Yea, I'd check it with a square, could be leaning a bit.

[rhoded]

Below are pictures of what it looks like with a square. I guess that would be the problem, right? Is there an "easy" way to adjust the towers? Do I have to suck it up and take off the top part and do it like is in the instructions?

X Tower:

Y Tower:

Z Tower:

[barry99705]

You should be able to loosen all the screws that hold the tower and tweak it a bit. It doesn't need that much of a movement.

[KAS]

Before messing with the towers, remove the glass and loosen the screws mounting the onyx to the snowflake/base.

Heat your bed to 70c then torque down each screw so that the onyx bed is the same height at all mounting points. Use the depth gauge of a caliper/micrometer to determine the height. Don't crank they screws down to much as it can warp between mounting points.


Also verify your square is actually square. It looks a bit wavy although that might just be the images.

[rhoded]

I re-adjusted the printer towers and it's pretty close but I just got a digital caliper and level and can at least now say that it is not completely level so I will try that next. Thanks for the help so far and I will let you know if I need more.

[rhoded]

OK, I just measured the bed at 70 degrees as best I could (how does one do this with a caliper? Mine won't fit under the snowflake/base) and got it as close as I could. Then I went through the tower alignment again and did a lot of calibration. I am really good on towers X and Z but Y still has a large arc. I made a video of the behavior and uploaded it at https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9hfDW ... sp=sharing. See how the head is pretty much too close to the bed yet at the maximum Y point, it curves sharply upwards?

It's almost as if all this calibration did nothing for it. What else could be the cause? It is definitely a bummer to have selected this printer on the premise that it has a large print area only to find that after tons of calibration, I can only reliably use part of the area. I'll check to see if anything is bent since it was checked baggage on a plane to Serbia. Any other ideas??

[teoman]

The calipers usually have a part like a needle that extends from the back side. You could use that.

[Jimustanguitar]

An illustration to go with Teoman's comment. #3 in this picture.

[img]http://www.craftsmanspace.com/sites/def ... suring.gif[/img]

[rhoded]

Oh wow that's cool! I didn't know about using that part, I will go back and measure it again. However, I don't hold out too much hope since all my adjustments yesterday didn't do much. Any other ideas of what to look at after that?

[rhoded]

Just in case someone has a similar issue (and to close this issue), everything with my build and parts was fine EXCEPT that I had not given the printer head enough cabling from the top. What happened was, as this was my first build, I measured the cabling to the bed but it was still too tight when the head would move towards the edges, especially towards the Y tower but also in that general area (the poor Z-height occurred near the Y tower but not exactly there). I simply pulled more cabling up through the towers and out the center hole in the "ceiling" of the print area, wrapped that cabling in electrical tape, and voila, it works great now! Thanks for everyone's help!