Upgrades?

[Ziggey]

So I have the Diamond Hotend and I'm looking to do some upgrade as well. I see that seemecnc has Rostock MAX Ball-Cup Delta Arm kit. I would be interested in getting it if I didn't have to upgrade my cheapskates as well so are there any other options? I am also going to need more steppers what would you guys recommend? I also read a thread about a guy who increased the power to his bed to decrease heat up time for the machine. Has anyone had any luck with that? I'm thinking I'm also going to get one of those Zebra Plates... They seem like a really nice alternative to the PEI that I have. http://www.printinz.com/zebra-plate/ Has anyone tried them yet?

Thank you,
Zig

[IMBoring25]

I wouldn't boost the bed voltage without running it over a Solid State Relay. People have burned up the bed terminals on their Rambos even at stock voltage (and I did on the Melzi with which my Mendel originally came).

[geneb]

You'll want the new carriages as well. They require no adjustment to work properly.

I do not understand this obsession with high bed temperatures while printing abs. I've never needed more than 80c myself. *shrugs*

g.

[Eaglezsoar]

You'll want the new carriages as well. They require no adjustment to work properly.

I do not understand this obsession with high bed temperatures while printing abs. I've never needed more than 80c myself. *shrugs*

g.

Everyone is different. Especially so in your case.

[Xenocrates]

I'm far less obsessed with high bed temps for ABS personally, but would still want a 24v heated bed. I would like it to heat up quickly even with a relatively large piece of aluminum for a heat spreader (To reduced temp oscillation), as well as higher temp beds for some other materials (Such as the CNT filled PC that 3dXtech had at MRRF (110 to 120C recomended), or perhaps Ultem (again, 110 to 120) ), while combating the sometimes far from ideal environment my printer runs in (Again, unheated shop in a barn). I'm sure that for some people, if they didn't mind waiting, that 24V beds are entirely superfluous, but the wait time before you can start a part is annoying. Especially if you have multiple beds you can swap between while any given one heat cycles (I like allowing my parts to mostly cool before removing them, and have 2 PEI-aluminum sandwiches, so if the bed could heat them at a good rate, I would likely use both, and increase my through-put on small parts)

[Ziggey]

Xenocrates Do you have a 24v heated bed? If so what way did you go about doing it? Did you upgrade your power supply as well?

[TheRealRocketBurns]

I'm far less obsessed with high bed temps for ABS personally, but would still want a 24v heated bed. I would like it to heat up quickly even with a relatively large piece of aluminum for a heat spreader (To reduced temp oscillation), as well as higher temp beds for some other materials (Such as the CNT filled PC that 3dXtech had at MRRF (110 to 120C recomended), or perhaps Ultem (again, 110 to 120) ), while combating the sometimes far from ideal environment my printer runs in (Again, unheated shop in a barn). I'm sure that for some people, if they didn't mind waiting, that 24V beds are entirely superfluous, but the wait time before you can start a part is annoying. Especially if you have multiple beds you can swap between while any given one heat cycles (I like allowing my parts to mostly cool before removing them, and have 2 PEI-aluminum sandwiches, so if the bed could heat them at a good rate, I would likely use both, and increase my through-put on small parts)

I have to second Xenocrates here, having extra power to the bed is nice. Mine takes forever to heat, so I have ended up using mostly PLA. My main gripe is that there just isn't enough power to go around between my nozzle or the bed, so when both are on their temps are unstable and take forever to heat.

[Xenocrates]

I do not yet. It's on my list of things, but I'm planning on using an external power supply and ssr to drive the bed, with a control relay to switch the 12v side so as to keep 24vdc from touching the Rambo terminals (and to let it fail over to 12v if the power supply fails or is not present )

[KAS]

I do not yet. It's on my list of things, but I'm planning on using an external power supply and ssr to drive the bed, with a control relay to switch the 12v side so as to keep 24vdc from touching the Rambo terminals (and to let it fail over to 12v if the power supply fails or is not present )

I've (and others) been using this 24v to 12v converter. Never had any issues running the board/hotend/accessories.

http://www.amazon.com/HOSSEN%C2%AE-Conv ... B00BWKXTUU

[Xenocrates]

Entirely aware of those. I want the external psu so that if power flickers/dies, I can have a reasonable ups on the printer itself, rather than needing to supply up to 500 watts for the bed alone if it comes on.

[Neptune]

I do not understand this obsession with high bed temperatures while printing abs. I've never needed more than 80c myself. *shrugs*
g.

right there with you gene 80c is good for me!!!