Splitting issue... Underextrusion?

[dcfc_sandy]

Another day, another trouble shooting issue...

Okay so my print quality now that I've fixed my lifting issue on bed extremities (ish-kind of fixed (it'll do for now)) has massively deteriorated due to an issue I'm having with possibly layer splitting although its doesn't curl?

under extrusion?

To me this looks like an under extrusion issue. I'm using the stock EZstruder and an E3Dv6. I'm having this issue with three different filaments I've currently circulating all PLA from different suppliers. There is no uniform to the issue, the layers aren't the same on either objects printed separate or multiple object prints, by this I mean even the splits layers aren't the same on parts printed at the same time.

My infill is generally okay, there are some points when bits are missing which makes me think under extrusion.

I've calibrated my E-steps, I check the filament with a digital caliper, I've ranged the Silver PLA in the photo from 190C its normal printing temp before this issue, to 210C in 5C increments and the same results bar some stringing, I've got two layer fans ran at 0%, 40%, 80% and 100%. I've changed my default speed from 75mm/s infill 50 mm/s inner perimeter 45mm/s out to 50mm/s infill, 40mm/s outer and 35mm/s inner, retract around 3.5mm 15mm/s 0.3mm Z-lift and 0.1mm extra on restart, I've tinkered with this too. Made sure the EZstruder is clean of debris and the hobbed gear is clean. I've done some hot pulls on the E3Dv6 with different filament in the 140-120C range to clean it and nothing is working.

The grind on the filament appears to be consistent going down the bowden tubing and I hear no obvious motor skipping or anything of concern during the print or when this problem arises. The EZstruder is running warm to the touch, I would say somewhere between 35-45C range, but no hotter than previously.

Any one any other ideas? Thankyouuuuu

I've been considering a Bondtech QR for a few months and decided to pick two up yesterday.

[Nylocke]

I've had bad results with silver colored filaments. The colorant for silver is really bad and causes clogs and small blockages all the time. If you tried a nice translucent colored PLA or some PLA from Ultimachine/Colorfabb you would probably get much better results. I've gotten iffy results even from silver ABS because of this colorant issue.

[dcfc_sandy]

The silver might be playing a part, but the issue is also present on my red PLA (E3D) and blue PLA (Hatchbox). The silver is FilaPrint. I'll have a go at printing the same tall objects in different colours when I get home and see how it comes out, but for sure the issue is there on other colours too .

The thing is even with the silver PLA I didn't have this issue (as bad as it is, maybe one or two not ideal parts on on 400 layer 0.2mm print )until I went 24v and changed all my motors and belts round trying to fix another issue...

One day I will get consistency this I swear!

[Nylocke]

The problems your having should go away with the bondtech. For right now im not sure what advice to give you.

Maybe try inserting some PLA and getting the hotend to 260-270, pushing (by hand) a few cm through, let it cool to 110 or so and quickly pulling it out. Try this a few times until the PLA is one color. This is the atomic method recommended by ultimaker.

[626Pilot]

Remove the nozzle and hold it up to a light. If the aperture isn't perfectly round, blowtorch it or hold it over a gas stove until there's nothing but a perfect circle. The PLA will reduce to ash in about a minute. Use a single strand of electrical wire to poke out any remaining gunk.

Also, measure the objects you've printed with calipers. Compare their dimensions to what they should be in the CAD file. If there's much variance, you can use my dimensional accuracy calibration. If the printer thinks the arms are longer than they really are, it won't push them as far as it should, and you can get delamination if it's bad enough.

[dcfc_sandy]

I gave the extruder gear a clean and did the atomic method (I do this most of the time when I change filament) before and after cleaning with a fire and and a few guitar strings. Before that though I upgraded from the Repitier firmware in the manual to the latest version 0.92.9? maybe??? Due to getting FSR's soon, that for some reason seemed to help and the cleaning of everything seemed to as well. I think somewhere something had come lose as well as the hotend was unscrewing too easily.

I'll have a go at checking your thread and measure with calipers when I have the FSR's installed 626Pilot

thanks all for you help... again