Building a Rostock Max V2 with a twist, help required.

Span24 · Post by **Span24** » Tue Apr 26, 2016 11:22 am

Although I agree with (and certainly subscribe to) 'Go Big or go Home' you might also consider putting this one back together as stock. That way you will have plenty of support here on the forums, experience an easier learning curve, and end up with a 'nice enough unit' for much less than retail! Out of the box/stock these printers do what they advertise. And I think they do it well! Just something to consider....

Michael

dmgdispenser · Post by **dmgdispenser** » Sun May 01, 2016 4:18 am

Span24 wrote:Although I agree with (and certainly subscribe to) 'Go Big or go Home' you might also consider putting this one back together as stock. That way you will have plenty of support here on the forums, experience an easier learning curve, and end up with a 'nice enough unit' for much less than retail! Out of the box/stock these printers do what they advertise. And I think they do it well! Just something to consider....

Michael

yeah, my plan is to have it assembled like a stock kit with the exception to the hot end and extruder, which will be the v6 and bondtech qr respectively. for the most part everything is put together for now, i'm just waiting on the delivery of the hot end/cold end. I ended up buying the wrong bearings from seemecnc, so i went ahead and built it with existing bearings after thoroughly cleaning them. many thanks to everyone and everything so far is not bad I did however installed the x and y rod with swapped wiring, but it shouldn't matter, i'm just feeling too lazy to take it apart to get the wiring right, i'll just make it work =P
quick updated pictures of progress

Spoiler:

Span24 · Post by **Span24** » Sun May 01, 2016 3:20 pm

Great job!

Be sure to post lots of pictures! Ive found that almost as enjoyable as working with your own machine is seeing what others are able to do with theirs! I recently purchased a used Max V2 as you did. Went completely through it and got it back to top shape. There is little more rewarding than getting a machine at a good price and making it perform like a new one! I had previously built a kit from scratch so that helped with tearing down and rebuilding the used one but the incredible build instructions and vast knowledge available here in these forums continue to prove invaluable!

Stick with it and you will be rewarded!

Michael

dmgdispenser · Post by **dmgdispenser** » Fri May 13, 2016 12:44 am

hey guys, quick update!

the parts just came in, hopefully this is everything.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/56rg7U7.jpg[/img]

bondtech qr + rostock mount
v6 and volcano
and bowden adapter?
and all the nozzle and other stuff included in standard kit.

basically I'm at the point where everything is almost done, mostly just wiring and adding on the hot end and mounting the extruder. Had some quick questions before i continue.

I realized i misplaced the X and Y axis, so the wiring inside the respective axis is swapped. I didn't think much of this as I didn't want to swap the axis out for something that can be fixed by rerouting a wire and whatnot.
My kit was the one with the old carriage slider. I recently bought the newer carriage, they're pretty dope if I do say so myself. But What I noticed was the end stopper seems reversed to me? or felt reverse, or maybe it's just me.
is my stopper on backwards?
[img]http://i.imgur.com/7vDlpDQ.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/AGKZU3w.jpg[/img]
just feels like the contact of this screw hits exactly under the clicker, where as the metal assist points inwards towards the metal, I've been staring at it, wouldn't it be the other way?

not quite sure what this is...
[img]http://i.imgur.com/eY9CX8E.jpg[/img]
thinking it's like a quick swap attachment or whatnot? thinking that wire goes to the hotend? or the extruder?
[img]http://i.imgur.com/knv7DQq.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/eszUTQU.jpg[/img]

can't wait to start the build saturday/sunday. been super swamped and had no time to finish it up until saturday!
wish me luck! any tips/advices are always welcome! pretty sure There will be more questions once i start the wiring portion.

Post by **geneb** » Fri May 13, 2016 8:28 am

The end stop switches are fine.

g.

dmgdispenser · Post by **dmgdispenser** » Sun May 22, 2016 10:09 pm

quick question, i'm getting the last few pieces that i seemed to have forgotten, but What would you suggest as good layer cooling fans. is 40mm the standard? mostly going to print pla, so i would like to have the trio cooling fan setup. currently waiting on the 713 mount for my v6 and the pei layer+tape+dampeners.

thanks.

dmgdispenser · Post by **dmgdispenser** » Sun May 22, 2016 10:14 pm

oh i've seen this come up but, does it matter between getting 12v and 5v fans? i would imagine it would, since a psu is 12v? i'm not familiar with power ratings and such.

saw some talk about getting noctua's 40mm's but theres two versions, but i'm not sure if i want to pay the premium for those tiny fans,

thanks again.

dmgdispenser · Post by **dmgdispenser** » Wed Jun 22, 2016 1:48 am

Hey guys! after some busy weekends, I've assembled the v2 and it was up and running for a bit, now I'm running into problems of jams, just like my v1. they both continuously jam, I've changed the bowden a few times now, and it still jams. I however think it has something to do with my retraction on the bondtech, it's quite loud when it retracts. and here's some photos

Spoiler:

and some more upgrades I've been meaning to throw on it. PEI layer as well.

Spoiler:

so i started to print my calibration cubes.

Spoiler:

the left ones are the newest after some recalibrations. Still not sure how to make the cube water tight, still prints lines that are visible, not quite sure what to tune for this.

every now and then i'll get the ptfe filament tube jam with the plastic, I'm melting pla @210, maybe it's too high?
(this is on the V2, which uses the e3d v6 hotend and bondtech qr) but as of late, it's happening very often to where I'm not quite sure what's the problem. I've replace the tube, re-edged the ends so it's flat and flush up against the insert end of the hotend, still jams. I was hearing some loud retracts when the bondtech retracts. so It leads me to think the retract rate is off. With that being said, this is my V2 eeprom settings.

Spoiler:

I know i haven't calibrated the extruder yet, seeing as it's @490 steps still. I had it @ 475 which might be better, but now it's jammed again, earlier i had to disassemble the hot end because there was pla stuck in the heatbreak, so i took it apart, and to get the heatbreak plastic un jammed i just put the heatblock on and pointed a drill bit through and reinstalled it and z calibrate, and it started printing for a while until i printed the rostock blower fan mount for the v1's upgrade. and the extruder retraction makes a short but semi loud noise, is it possible it's retracting too much? and not putting the correct length back, hence stretching the plastic in the heatbreak making it small/weak /jam? just going off restless brain here.

Spoiler:

it was trying to print this

Spoiler:

and to view the rest of the prints that it made this weekend, feel free to check out http://imgur.com/a/uZPGt and any tips on how to avoid those gaps/line breaks are very useful. not sure if i'm missing anything, but i'll come back and check up, the printer's been awesome when it's printing, I just need few pointers on fine tuning/calibration. for long prints. I've tried to print out a predator face on a wall mount, for my lady, but once the retractions started kicking in, the print started to fail and clogged the hot end. so i've taken it apart again earlier, to see what's wrong this time. any insight?

Xenocrates · Post by **Xenocrates** » Wed Jun 22, 2016 12:07 pm

So, the EEPROM settings don't help much. We'd need to look at the slicer settings, as those determine retract. It looks like you're using a V6 on it (It's hard to be sure for the V1 especially. I can see in thread you've bought an E3D hotend), which means you want a short (~2MM) and slow (30MM/s~) retract, especially for PLA. It seems you probably want to also tune your extruder, as it seems to be under-extruding for some things (And infill overlap in slicer settings can help with those holed edges)

Also, do I spy an NZXT fan there in your upgrade pile? (I'm a great fan of their cases, but their fans less so. Corsair and Noctua make better (But more expensive) fans.)

dmgdispenser · Post by **dmgdispenser** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 12:03 am

okay, I've loaded the slicer settings you suggested, we'll see how it goes, the retract was really loud, so i think 110retract was way too much. i did play around with octoprint, it was pretty cool. I couldn't get octoprint to actually print, but the camera feature was sweet. I couldn't get the printer to z calibrate from octoprint the stepper ratings were mismatched was just weird trying to get it to print via octoprint, so teamviewer from another computer would probably be better. while i did use the raspberry pi for this, I also found some useful tips that might help others. With the power supply of my v2, (12v atx) I have a motherboard 24 pin extension cable, and from there I spliced all the cables need. I found an extremely nice way of powering the raspberry pi from the max v2. I'll have a small guide at the end for this.

Spoiler:

Using the purple cable from the 24pin motherboard wire. I spliced that into an old case usb header with the proper red/black cables for powering the usb ports, which in turn powers the Raspberry pi. The purple wire in the atx psu is a 5v standby power, which will remain on as long as the power cable is plugged into the psu and wall. Even if the printer is off, or turned off and on, the raspberry pi's power is uninterrupted and constant. Very nice way to have an all in one Octoprint server for monitor or maybe even printing, but currently it's mattercontrol and the octoprint only for the remote camera viewing.
Luckily I have to do this process for both printers so i took pictures of the it =)
Once it's done you'll have a free usb power plug with your printer.

Here's how to get a USB power hub installed in your rostock (with 12v atx psu)

Spoiler:

And on a side note, xeno yes, those are nzxt fans, they're actually the ones i replaced with my static corsair fans for my water cooling on my pc. Figured I'll hard wire the nzxt fan with the 3d printer to turn on and blow air across the pi and ramps board to keep it nice and cool. it's a 120mm so it'll probably have to go on the v1.
The V1 currently is stock V1 with seemecnc hot end and extruder, I'm about to put on the new ball socket carriage pretty soon, and PEI sheets for both these printers. I cracked the glass plate in half on the V1 (but i figured of i put that PEI sheet on it, it'll hold the two pieces together. lol worth a shot.it's still printing fine but my filament is jammed on this printer too, the hotend crashed into the glass after it turned off =/. I wanted to go buy the chimera for this v1, but i might just go grab another v6 since then it'll be basically all interchangable parts easy to work with if they're for the most part the same printer. i've already printed out the other bondtech extruder mount, which came out amazingly well. just waiting on those other parts to get here. before i reassemble that v1 into an upgraded version of itself.

What I've been excited about is that, I've been lurking the forums and reading, but saw that geneb said there's going to be an upgrade coming out soon thatl'l help z-calibration or calibration in general? not really sure but, excited to see what it is. end stop calibration seems pretty cool, not sure if it's worth it? but i might venture into that later on.

Xenocrates · Post by **Xenocrates** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 10:33 am

It's cool you took the time to tease out the 5VSB line from the plug. Unfortunately, when you buy most modular/high-capacity/digitally regulated power supplies, such as pretty much everything Corsair makes, you get either all black cables, or sleeving around them that keeps you from being able to easily get at a specific rail. It would be nice if we could get a proper ATX breakout with each line broken out to a terminal.

If I may make a suggestion, I would go with the V6 for the V1 for now, and then when 713 releases the new Chimera/Cyclops mount he teased recently (I actually saw them at MRRF back in march), potentially buy that with the legends pack. The nicest thing about E3D is the compatibility, as the Chimera will take V6 blocks and nozzles, as well as the Volcano ones, and can easily become a cyclops with only a little work.
I also suggest you buy heatspreaders, such as Trick-lasers, which will give you a more even bed temperature and keep temperature swings to a minimum, and then put the PEI onto that for the one with broken glass (I have had minimal issues with the flatness of my heatspreader or PEI adhesion to it). Less fragile, and less thermal mass in the system, plus your thermistor temps are closer to surface temp.

Edit: The thing Geneb has teased is the accelormeter based probing of the bed, which should do all the calibration you need easily. It's supposed already available on the Eris, but is designed for a single hotend. I have checked the cad files, and the E3D should fit through the hole. You would need to do some modification to support it though.

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Building a Rostock Max V2 with a twist, help required.

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Re: Building a Rostock Max V2 with a twist, help required.

Re: Building a Rostock Max V2 with a twist, help required.

Re: Building a Rostock Max V2 with a twist, help required.

Re: Building a Rostock Max V2 with a twist, help required.