I think I found the cure to Warping.

[elqisqeyano]

I am printing with Taulman 618 Nylon, which is known to warp a lot. Well I ran across the same problem today and I solved it by using my soldering iron, RadioShack Digital Soldering Station, Needs to reach temps in the 800 F. I used the filament material itself to melt it on to the Blue painters tape just as if I were soldering it to the tape itself. Just the edges of your skirt, melt down onto the bed itself and it correct if warping and it prevents warping. Just a neat trick I stumbled upon. Works nicely, keeps the skirt and material glued to the tape.

[elqisqeyano]

Use a wide tip, works and melts better. Do it all the way around the skirt, you can even do it while it's printing.

[Flateric]

Are you melting the nylon to the tape ontop of the onyx, the glass or an aluminium plate?

Unless I misunderstand you.

How is the nylon for warping in comparison to ABS or PLA printing?

[cambo3d]

I am printing with Taulman 618 Nylon, which is known to warp a lot. Well I ran across the same problem today and I solved it by using my soldering iron, RadioShack Digital Soldering Station, Needs to reach temps in the 800 F. I used the filament material itself to melt it on to the Blue painters tape just as if I were soldering it to the tape itself. Just the edges of your skirt, melt down onto the bed itself and it correct if warping and it prevents warping. Just a neat trick I stumbled upon. Works nicely, keeps the skirt and material glued to the tape.

how did you setup your hotend for printing with nylon? I ask because nylon starts to melt at the same temperature that peek (the material insulator that your hotend is made of) starts to melt. 240c plus.

[mhackney]

I've been printing Taulman 618 for a while now. It is actually not that difficult to print. As for temps, I print at 240°C (CALIBRATED) and with a small (25mm) fan pointed at the PEEK there are no issues. I've measured the temps under these conditions and the peek to aluminum hot end junction is right at 180°C, so no worries. But you are right at the limits so make sure you know what your actual temps are, not what the firmware is telling you.

As for sticking the first layer, by far the best option I've tried is Garolite and no heat. The combination of surface chemistry and mechanical roughness work great and it is not as expensive as the other suggested print surface (Cast Nylon sheet) or as variable and rough as poplar wood. You actually have to use blue tape to prevent the nylon from sticking to Garolite if there is a large surface area. Otherwise it is very difficult to remove.

As for warping, the parts do indeed warp and this is very dependent on geometry. Solid infilled large flat parts are the worse. There is some info here on Taulman so use search to find it. Polygonhell has done some nice prints. I have a material config for Taulman in the KISSlicer files I uploaded in the KISS forum. Other than temp and getting the layers to stick, the only other recommendation is go slow. I typically print at 15-20mm/s. And I do not use a fan to cool the part, that promotes warping and delamination.

[cambo3d]

I guess i need to invest in a fan, thanks.

[elqisqeyano]

Are you melting the nylon to the tape ontop of the onyx, the glass or an aluminium plate?

Unless I misunderstand you.

How is the nylon for warping in comparison to ABS or PLA printing?

On top of Seemecnc's Borosilicate glASS PLATE. Nylon printing is very warpish.

[elqisqeyano]

I've been printing Taulman 618 for a while now. It is actually not that difficult to print. As for temps, I print at 240°C (CALIBRATED) and with a small (25mm) fan pointed at the PEEK there are no issues. I've measured the temps under these conditions and the peek to aluminum hot end junction is right at 180°C, so no worries. But you are right at the limits so make sure you know what your actual temps are, not what the firmware is telling you.

As for sticking the first layer, by far the best option I've tried is Garolite and no heat. The combination of surface chemistry and mechanical roughness work great and it is not as expensive as the other suggested print surface (Cast Nylon sheet) or as variable and rough as poplar wood. You actually have to use blue tape to prevent the nylon from sticking to Garolite if there is a large surface area. Otherwise it is very difficult to remove.

As for warping, the parts do indeed warp and this is very dependent on geometry. Solid infilled large flat parts are the worse. There is some info here on Taulman so use search to find it. Polygonhell has done some nice prints. I have a material config for Taulman in the KISSlicer files I uploaded in the KISS forum. Other than temp and getting the layers to stick, the only other recommendation is go slow. I typically print at 15-20mm/s. And I do not use a fan to cool the part, that promotes warping and delamination.

Slice your part floating on air and give it a good platform is what I found to print best with Nylon 618. If warped, the part usually come out good. But you got it right with your settings Mchackey. It put me right on!

[elqisqeyano]

I've been printing Taulman 618 for a while now. It is actually not that difficult to print. As for temps, I print at 240°C (CALIBRATED) and with a small (25mm) fan pointed at the PEEK there are no issues. I've measured the temps under these conditions and the peek to aluminum hot end junction is right at 180°C, so no worries. But you are right at the limits so make sure you know what your actual temps are, not what the firmware is telling you.

As for sticking the first layer, by far the best option I've tried is Garolite and no heat. The combination of surface chemistry and mechanical roughness work great and it is not as expensive as the other suggested print surface (Cast Nylon sheet) or as variable and rough as poplar wood. You actually have to use blue tape to prevent the nylon from sticking to Garolite if there is a large surface area. Otherwise it is very difficult to remove.

As for warping, the parts do indeed warp and this is very dependent on geometry. Solid infilled large flat parts are the worse. There is some info here on Taulman so use search to find it. Polygonhell has done some nice prints. I have a material config for Taulman in the KISSlicer files I uploaded in the KISS forum. Other than temp and getting the layers to stick, the only other recommendation is go slow. I typically print at 15-20mm/s. And I do not use a fan to cool the part, that promotes warping and delamination.

If you have no fan, you can print Nylon 618 with a hot end temp of just 210 degrees.

[elqisqeyano]

I've been printing Taulman 618 for a while now. It is actually not that difficult to print. As for temps, I print at 240°C (CALIBRATED) and with a small (25mm) fan pointed at the PEEK there are no issues. I've measured the temps under these conditions and the peek to aluminum hot end junction is right at 180°C, so no worries. But you are right at the limits so make sure you know what your actual temps are, not what the firmware is telling you.

As for sticking the first layer, by far the best option I've tried is Garolite and no heat. The combination of surface chemistry and mechanical roughness work great and it is not as expensive as the other suggested print surface (Cast Nylon sheet) or as variable and rough as poplar wood. You actually have to use blue tape to prevent the nylon from sticking to Garolite if there is a large surface area. Otherwise it is very difficult to remove.

As for warping, the parts do indeed warp and this is very dependent on geometry. Solid infilled large flat parts are the worse. There is some info here on Taulman so use search to find it. Polygonhell has done some nice prints. I have a material config for Taulman in the KISSlicer files I uploaded in the KISS forum. Other than temp and getting the layers to stick, the only other recommendation is go slow. I typically print at 15-20mm/s. And I do not use a fan to cool the part, that promotes warping and delamination.

By the way... I'm in love with KISSlicer now. Will definitely donate and get Pro Version. It's almost like injection molding.

[elqisqeyano]

I also found you have to keep the bed cooled, even if you have to fan it, for first layers. This way you keep the heat from the hot end from warping you platform. That is the problem you run into when 3D printing with Nylon 618. If you can keep that heat away from your printed filament, for the first 'bout 25 to 35 mm height, that is key to avoiding warping using Nylon 618. You also have to print fast, bump your speed to 300%, need to keep that hot end moving for thos first 25 to 35 mm height. Afterwards you can resume with speeds min at 150. You can't keep the hot end in places too long, keep it moving at comfortable speeds then slow down to your preference.

[elqisqeyano]

Follow these easy steps and you can print objects you can hit with a sledge hammer and not break them, literally! They make hockey pucks from this stuff.

[aehM_Key]

Please use the edit-Button:

Unbenannt2.PNG (21.01 KiB) Viewed 16350 times

[elqisqeyano]

Please use the edit-Button:

Unbenannt2.PNG

What is it? Can't open anything. Broken link?

[cambo3d]

Please use the edit-Button:

Unbenannt2.PNG

What is it? Can't open anything. Broken link?

lol...

[aehM_Key]

I hope you don't use your weapons without knowing enough about them like you do with internet forums...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Button_(computing)

[elqisqeyano]

I hope you don't use your weapons without knowing enough about them like you do with internet forums...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Button_(computing)

You said please use the edit button. Use the edit button to do what? I am not understanding you logic here. Please elaborate and not make fun of people. At one time you were new at something and you learned your way there right? Then help me out here, one hand washes the other. I don't psses weapons either, that avatar is a pic of what I would like to have.

Namaste.

[aehM_Key]

Relax
And sorry if you couldn't laugh about my comment.

The Edit-Button is usually used to edit a post, instead of having to write multiple (six in you case ) succeeding posts. This keeps the forum readable.

[elqisqeyano]

Relax
And sorry if you couldn't laugh about my comment.

The Edit-Button is usually used to edit a post, instead of having to write multiple (six in you case ) succeeding posts. This keeps the forum readable.

That one flew one over the coocoo's nest with me, LOL. I had the slightest idea what you spoke of. But thanks for the advise. Will take that into account next time.

Namaste.

[foshon]

Check this guys videos out. He's using a glue stick available on Amazon.

http://www.youtube.com/user/Ashhhhtube/ ... &flow=grid


Speaking of weapons, how'd that bang stick turn out?

[Polygonhell]

Check this guys videos out. He's using a glue stick available on Amazon.

http://www.youtube.com/user/Ashhhhtube/ ... &flow=grid


Speaking of weapons, how'd that bang stick turn out?

I've tried it works about as well as hairspray.
I can print single wall prints like in the video with out warping even on just blue painters tape.
The issue is if you use a significant infill percentage.
On hairspray I can often print the part flat, but as soon as I release the part from the build surface it warps.
I did a ton of tests with a simple 50x20x5 box with 50% infill, almost none of them stayed flat when released from the build surface.
I have some Garolite I haven't tried, and I want to try heating the entire print when it's complete, before I release if from the build plate to say 60C to see if that will relax some of the warping forces, but I need to have a good reason to go back and mess with nylon first.

[elqisqeyano]

Check this guys videos out. He's using a glue stick available on Amazon.

http://www.youtube.com/user/Ashhhhtube/ ... &flow=grid


Speaking of weapons, how'd that bang stick turn out?

Holy geezers Foshon, I'm going to have to try that trick, been having difficulties getting this Nylon to grab on. I practiced printing that tool with ABS but it's become a real challenge for me printing it using this Nylon 618. It's what I really want to print it in. Thanks for the tip.

Namaste.

[elqisqeyano]

Check this guys videos out. He's using a glue stick available on Amazon.

http://www.youtube.com/user/Ashhhhtube/ ... &flow=grid


Speaking of weapons, how'd that bang stick turn out?

I've tried it works about as well as hairspray.
I can print single wall prints like in the video with out warping even on just blue painters tape.
The issue is if you use a significant infill percentage.
On hairspray I can often print the part flat, but as soon as I release the part from the build surface it warps.
I did a ton of tests with a simple 50x20x5 box with 50% infill, almost none of them stayed flat when released from the build surface.
I have some Garolite I haven't tried, and I want to try heating the entire print when it's complete, before I release if from the build plate to say 60C to see if that will relax some of the warping forces, but I need to have a good reason to go back and mess with nylon first.

What material would you recommend I use in my case? I need something that is close to Poly, tough and flexible, with out the warp.

[Polygonhell]

What material would you recommend I use in my case? I need something that is close to Poly, tough and flexible, with out the warp.[/quote]

I don't think you have a choice, there isn't anything with close to the material properties of Nylon except Nylon that's printable.
Steve Gerber uses Micky mouse ears on his nylon parts, and seems to get usable prints, he prints on Garolite at room temperature.

MickyMouse ears are single layer circles placed at the outside corners that are prone to warp.

[elqisqeyano]

What material would you recommend I use in my case? I need something that is close to Poly, tough and flexible, with out the warp.

I don't think you have a choice, there isn't anything with close to the material properties of Nylon except Nylon that's printable.
Steve Gerber uses Micky mouse ears on his nylon parts, and seems to get usable prints, he prints on Garolite at room temperature.

MickyMouse ears are single layer circles placed at the outside corners that are prone to warp.[/quote]

Where can I download those Mickey Mouse ears? My Garolite is in the mail. If I sent you a file could you put the ears on it for me? Or is it a simple process? I'm very new to this, but learning much as I go. Thanks in advance.