Finished Rostock V2 build and E3d mount upgrade now LCD malfunction

[terratian]

After changing my firmware to accommodate the E3d hotend, replacing the mount to an all metal mount, and putting in a new bowden, I turned on the max v2 to test the hotend temperature. The LCD is garbled and blocky, the ribbon connections are correct and unchanged from before the new firmware to accommodate the E3d. Also the E3d is still getting hot not just the hotend, the entire E3d is heating up. I updated my op on this machines troubles but recieved no response, I really want to start printing with this machine but I keep running into issues.

[IMBoring25]

Unless you did something with the wiring while the machine was powered, in which case I'd suspect you shorted something, I'd start with recompiling and reloading the firmware again.

The only reason I can think why the entire hot end would be getting warm is if the fan is not turning or is turning the wrong way. Looking from the fan side towards the hot end, the counter-clockwise side of the blades should be closer to you and the fan should turn counter-clockwise.

[terratian]

I confirmed configuration.h , everything is correct for e3d. Seems off that lcd would short circuit as it functioned correctly since original power up. I havent changed anything with wiring.

[terratian]

This power connector design is deeply flawed.

[terratian]

How do I get a new lcd...figures, sub-par design lugs on power connector shorted my printer(maybe???), i bought this printer to print, not troubleshoot for weeks and weeks and weeks.

[terratian]

The printer responds to manual controls in matter control...this is entirely frustrating.

[Xenocrates]

I would fill out SeemeCNC's support form about the LCD.

As for the power connect, that's not their choice really, as Ultimachine manufacturers the controllers and chose the connector. As it happens, that variety of connector is rather standard in industry as a power/signal connector. The biggest issue is that we are putting multiple wires into the same socket, but there's not much to do about that unless you want to have even more wire down there coming off the power supply. I personally would look into crimp on 'bootlaces" to prevent shorting, if you want to do it right, or just slip heatshrink on first then put once the wires are in place heat it to lock it in place. If the wires were trimmed to the correct length for the terminal, there would be much less of a problem however.

[geneb]

The power connector has nothing to do with the issue you're seeing on the LCD.

g.