I have had a string of really odd circumstances, most of them bad.
Printed 5 parts (10-11 hours each) with no problems.
While trying to get the 5th part off the printbed, a big chunk of the glass bed pulled up with the part. Replaced glass with something less damaged.
While trying to print the sixth part, the print head hard crashes into the part. Machine locks up
reset the Maxx, checked for damage (none) printed the 6th part again with no problems
while printing the 7th part, developed a clog
cleared out clog, reprinted 7th part. Half way through a 10 hour print... HARDWARE ERROR. Hotend showing temperature of -20°and extruder is none responsive.
Shut down printer and Mattercontrol. ask for help.
This is getting real frustrating. I clear one problem and another soon pops up.
Detroit Maker Faire is about a week and a half away. I have projects that I want printed for this event. Not to mention that I promised that I would have my printer there running all weekend.
So simply... HELP
Slicer - Mattercontrol v1.5.0
Connection - USB
Adhesion Method - ABS Juice
Material - Inland 1.75mm Natural ABS
Extuder Temp. - 240°
Bed Temp. - 120°
You clearly have a thermister problem .Is it showing def in the temp display? if so check your wiring. 240 may be to hot too if you are using the stock hotend. You are close to melting the peek hotend insulator.
It sounds like your hotend thermistor developed an open at some point (It cannot be that cold there, since it's so bloody warm here). I suggest attempting to print via the SD card, and pre-load the G code onto that. If you don't have a display that works for that, (From what I can find, the V1 didn't come with that, but Cambo's did), that might be harder. That may reduce the number of issues you have with lock ups. If you don't have a working print surface for the makerfair, I can potentially bring a loaner one, or we can work out some other sort of deal (I happen to have both a piece of Boro, and a PEI surface bonded to aluminum which I am not currently using, in addition to a heatspreader for the Boro, but I'm reluctant to give the boro up long term, in case I want to work with ninja-flex or TPU.)
Do you work with any of the local makerspaces (I3, Makerworks, AHA, ETC)? They may be able to help you faster than we can via the forums. If the problems are still going on during the fair, I could also potentially drop by and take a look (I promise nothing though. I haven't worked with a V1, and a modified one may well be unfamiliar enough to cause me serious problems.)
Machines:
Rostock Max V2, Duet .8.5, PT100 enabled E3D V6 and volcano, Raymond style enclosure
Automation Technology 60W laser cutter/engraver
1m X-carve router
I ordered a new thermistor from SeeMeCNC today, just in case.
I also just tried powering up the printer and watched the display. It showed the hotend at -20° just like the control window of Matercontrol. The display stayed that way for a minute or so. Then both the hotend and bed displays switched to def.
I want to check to see if the leads to the thermistor are still physically connected. (more than likely they are) If all else fails, the replacement part is on its way.
As far as going to a local makerspace for help. I would love to, but I can't afford the membership at this time.
It's far more likely the wiring for the thermistor is shorted, or open than the thermistor being damaged. The most common failure I've seen is people breaking the legs.
just disconnect the thermistor from the board and measure the resistance.
Most of the time shorts are against the heater block, and open connections are at joints in the wiring.
The other point of weakness for the E3D V6 is the connection from the thermistor leads to the wiring - that little crimp connector with shrink tube over it. That is a critical juncture that is tricky to get right the first time you do it.
Overtightening the screw/washer that holds the thermistor into the heater block can break the glass body, break the leads and/or short the leads. Check these by removing the thermistor and measuring it with a voltmeter off the machine.
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
I would check out the new thermistor cartridges E3D sells. It would require a new heater block (or some machining if you have access to a drill press or better yet a mill) but it would be way way way more reliable and easier to setup.
Ok, now I'm convinced that the deity of 3D printing hates me
Last weekend I took my Maxx to the Detroit Maker Faire. I had a replacement thermister and was prepared to install it. I plugged it into a extension cord, and dropped the end (of the extension cord) to the ground. When it hit the ground I heard a POP. while trying to figure out what happened I smelled smoke... RUH ROH.
I'm not sure what gave way, but the printer would not turn on after that. My guess it was the power supply.
I have a version 1 Maxx and my question is. How much aggravation am I in for in dropping the bottom plate?
I have heard that most of the V1s have a hole in the bottom plate for the removal of the power supply. mine does not.
It's the V2's that have a hole in the bottom plate. I believe you can get the power supply out by removing the side panels. If you've got a computer power supply you don't care about using in a computer again, you can potentially use that. If not, well, you can try finding one at best buy or micro center. If you feel like coming around A2/Canton, I have the original one out of my V2 (Never killed it, but I killed the one that came after it. Have a hot spare of the current model, so I'm doubting I need it), and could probably find time to help you install it sometime this week (or if you get a different one and still want a hand with things, I'm still game)
Machines:
Rostock Max V2, Duet .8.5, PT100 enabled E3D V6 and volcano, Raymond style enclosure
Automation Technology 60W laser cutter/engraver
1m X-carve router
I broke open the power supply, to see how difficult it would be to replace it. And did I get a surprise. Most of the leads were neatly soldered to, what I can assume, is the power taps. What I didn't expect is the 3 leads soldered to other points on the board. (the green, purple and grey leads in the pictures below) Also what I didn't expect is that there is no damage to the power supply that I can find.
When you hear a popping noise, and smell smoke, I expect to see something burnt. or at least a smell of something. The Power Supply seems in good condition from my untrained eye.
From my inspection (both visual and with limited multimeter tests)... Printer will not turn on. All fuses are intact. All components on the power supply look intact. Nothing looks burnt on the power supply. Power Switch working. RAMbo looks in good shape.
This is the replacement power supply I picked up at Microcenter. it is similar to the one Seemecnc sells as an upgrade to the Maxx v1. Unfortunately it did not come with any instructions. Wiring the 12v side seems easy. The 110v in is the side I'm not sure about.
[img]http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w188 ... _01821.jpg[/img]
So, if you haven't got an external IEC connector already (the sort of sockets on computer power supplies), and you've given up on the other one, you should be able to grab the socket out of it easily. Now, there are some things to be aware of doing that. firstly, a lot of them have filter capacitors and other features like a bleeder resistor (To discharge said filter capacitors). I would remove those. They were sized and intended for the computer power supply, and it's hard to tell what they might do to an industrial supply. Second is that looking at it from the back, with the middle contact down, that's Earth. On the left is live. Neutral is right. Once you have it wired up I suggest you take a second with a multimeter and make sure ground and the chassis of the power supply are connected, and that neither is connected to live or neutral.
If you haven't given up on that power supply, you can buy a new IEC connector at Abel electronics in St Claire shores (I think. I looked it up.) They call it a panel mount male, screw in AC convert. Stupid terminology for it. Or loot from a white box power supply. Alternatively, you can order from Mouser. I'd also get a 10A capable switch to go with it so you can shut the printer off. I'd love to see pictures of the underside of the dead supply board. It may also be the soldered on fuse in the power supply. Now, I know you probably don't care enough to try and resurrect it, but if you do, or just feel like indulging my curiousity as to failure modes on power supplies in printers (I have found the fault in one, thus the suggestion to look at the soldered on fuse in there).
Let us know how things go for you with this project.
Addendum: If the power supply is a conformant ATX with the color code as it appears to be, the three mystery wires are as follows: Green would be PS on, which is pulled low to start the supply (AKA, connected to ground). Purple is 5VSB, meaning as long as the power supply is plugged in it's one. Grey is Power Good, which tells the computer when it's fine to operate.
Machines:
Rostock Max V2, Duet .8.5, PT100 enabled E3D V6 and volcano, Raymond style enclosure
Automation Technology 60W laser cutter/engraver
1m X-carve router
Thanks, that is what I thought but I appreciate you confirming it.
nebbian wrote:What's the red wire with a soldered end doing? Is that an add-on that you did? It doesn't look stock to me.
Nothing in this power supply is stock. the gentleman who originally built this Maxx wanted to clean up as much of the power connections as possible. The good part is there is a minimum of excess wiring in this printer. The bad part is it makes replacing the power supply 100% harder for a someone like me who has almost no knowledge of electronics.
Xenocrates - I'm not ignoring what you said. But after reading through your post the first time I got a bit confused.
I'm starting believe that replacing the ATX power supply with this one I got from Microcenter maybe a bit harder than crimping on some terminals and connecting them to the screw connectors.
I was largely talking about how to wire a power connector to the new power supply, so that you could have a sane power cord. I believe that while it may not be unsafe, it is a bad idea, to have a directly connected cord that goes to the wall with the rest of the structure of the printer. If someone tripped on the cord, they could tear the terminals off the power supply or cause a fire.
So that nonsense was inadequately prefaced instructions/advice for wiring up the wall side of the power supply (Since you weren't sure about it). I'll agree it's somewhat harder than that, but not by much really.
So you could use a computer power cord.
The soldered on stuff I referenced can look different depending on the supply and so on (If it's even present), and is only a concern if you're reusing an older one. An example is here:
[img]http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/wp-conte ... 27_111.jpg[/img]
I also went and put in semi-random trivia as to what those 3 wires you were somewhat curious about did at the end.
Machines:
Rostock Max V2, Duet .8.5, PT100 enabled E3D V6 and volcano, Raymond style enclosure
Automation Technology 60W laser cutter/engraver
1m X-carve router
Xenocrates wrote:
If you haven't given up on that power supply, you can buy a new IEC connector at Abel electronics in St Claire shores (I think. I looked it up.)
Off topic, but I lived in St Claire Shores! Small world
First I want to thank Xenocrates for helping me out with swapping out the powersupply on my Maxx
I wish I could say that I'm back up and running, but I'm not. I changed over the extruder to the top mount v2 style, of course the control cables are to short. lengthened the control cables, found out the teflon feed tube is to short. and I still have to replace the thermistor on the hotend.
oh well, I should stop complaining and try and get as much done today as possible.
