Contemplating selling my current printer to buy a Rostock Max v3.

[d1rron]

I'm leaning toward just keeping what I've got, a Metal Max with a bunch of TrickLaser upgrades and a Bondtech Mini hanging extruder, but I find the new kit very enticing with its accelerometer, improved heated bed, etc. And I really enjoy building - - plus it looks damn sex with its wider footprint

Here are some pictures of my current setup, before I got the Bondtech Mini: http://imgur.com/a/qw1Jn

Anyway, I was just looking for people's thoughts on this. I've invested a lot into what started as a stock v2. I realize these haven't even shipped yet, but perhaps a few people have had them to beta test or something. I'm also ok with well reasoned speculative opinions.

Thanks!

[Tincho85]

I've read somewhere that they will be selling an upgrade kit.
If I were you, I would get that and keep the max metal, but honestly... do what makes you happy.

[cloneit3d]

very nice set up- thanks for sharing the pictures

Cheers!!!!

[Eric]

My feeling is most of the functional improvements are in the hot-end assembly. Nearly everything else is cosmetic (even if physically relocated from bottom to top) or for easier assembly. I would think that waiting for the hot-end assmbly to be available to purchase may be the best route in your case. The entire Eris hotend is now in SeeMe's shop for $99, so I'd expect the full-size version to be in the same ballpark when it's available.

[d1rron]

Thanks for all the replies so far!

The selling points for me were that the entire build area is within the tower triangle (better geometry/less opportunity for printing outside the triangle), although I don't seem to have that issue anymore with a perfectly square metal frame, the hotend accelerometer (I like my Prometheus), and the floating heated bed - - which if I understand it correctly, eliminates glass warp between different bed temperatures since it's not clipped with binder clips. (?)

Also considering trying to implement a floating bed on my Metal Max if it removes build surface warp.

[bvandiepenbos]

If you are running a Rambo board with Repeteir, you can add the SeeMeCNC accelerometer probe board to your MAX Metal and Prometheus hot end. Once they are available (probably soon?)

Your bed is mounted in just 3 points on the MAX Metal so it is not over-constrained like the stock V1 & V2 RMAX which used 6 screws.
The "sandwich" of melamine snowflake, Onyx HPB, Heat Spreader and Glass held with binder clips will stay flat even when bed temperature changes.
In my opinion the snowflake should not be clamped down against the frame side rails, it should be only supported by the 3 points.
Works well for me.
The floating bed should work well also, but I doubt you would see any difference.

With a sturdy, square and precise frame you should rarely, if ever need to re-calibrate.
I see the auto probing madness as just a convenience or to try and compensate for a less than ideal printer frame that is not consistently repeatable.
Also would be handy to easily swap out different thickness build surfaces.

[d1rron]

Now that you mention it, I haven't had to recalibrate between ABS and PLA since swapping to the new frame except for adjusting my Z height. I was just thinking back to some dark calibration times a while back before I switched to the TL frame and those two features would have saved me sooooo much time. Lol

Now I understand why you recommended having the bed mounted at three points and just above the horizontal frame rails. Thanks for the input, I'm going to go with my initial thought and just keep what I have. I haven't had any problems with it, I'm just impulsive and saw a shiny new model. Lol