New Rostock Troubles

[cyber.shifter]

Oh! Cool! I always wanted to get into CNC milling. Unfortunately I have confines on space. One day...

Ok, so use known quantity gauge to calibrate z-height, then ADD gauge thickness to z-height in EEPROM. Got it. I will do this and have results later tonight.

[cyber.shifter]

Wait. I just realized. I don't know why I didn't think of having to offset before. This probably affected every other calibration as well... *Doh*

[nitewatchman]

I CNC machine. The rolling paper trick was taught to me by an old-timer. It works amazingly well and won't dull expensive carbide mills.

On my Tormach, I either use a Toolsetting Probe to set all the tools in the toolchanger at one time or I use a 1-2-3 block to set tools one at a time.

For setting using the 1-2-3 block, I set the block on it's long side and position the tip of the cutter below the top of the block. I then push the block against the side of the cutter and raise slowly Z until the block just slips under the tip of the tool. You can even feel the edge chamfer on the block as a warning that the top is coming. The Z axis is then set to +2". No chance of bouncing the tool since you are moving away from the surface as you set. I find that this method repeats to less than 0.001" after you develop a feel and technique.

Gary

[cyber.shifter]

Try printing the attached Gcode on your printer. I tend to run pretty conservative settings within the printer community, but CraftWare estimates your print to complete within 20 minutes.

The attached Gcode are set to print the first layer at a height of .2mm, at a speed of 10 mm/s and then 30 mm/s for the second layer and on, with a resolution of .2mm. Both are set to print at 230 because I usually only bump my prometheus to 240 to print with ABS. 230 to 210 is what I print PLA. If you don't like the temps, preheat your printer to whatever preferred temps you have found, and start the gcode from either the sdcard or your preferred printer host. Once the printer or host has engaged the Gcode and sets my preset temps, just go ahead and set them back to your preferred temps that you just preheated to. The print will continue at your temps and you will be able to try different temps to your satisfaction.

DISCLAIMER: IT IS NOT MY FAULT IF THIS GCODE HARMS YOUR PRINTER. I HAVE USED THESE SETTINGS RELIGIOUSLY ON MY PRINTER AND THEY HAVE WORKED FOR ME. PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU HAVE YOUR PRINTER CALIBRATED AND YOUR BED Z-HEIGHT PROPERLY SET.

I gave it a shot last night, after re-calibrating properly. I definitely saw an improvement in infill overlap and going all the way to the outlines. The part lifted from the bed during the print, but that's ok, I'll tackle that too. I noticed that your temp was 80 C while I normally run 85-90C for ABS. As I understand it, this could be due to environmental differences. It also didn't help that I was using a filament that had been sitting out in air a couple weeks, because I saw a lot of bubbling. But yay for no gaps! I think that is a pretty good indicator that part of my problem is definitely software-related.

[lightninjay]

As I said, these values are merely what run on my machine, and as you stated, these could be different for your machine. Changing those values via the LCD display prior to the print beginning should override the preset temps.

But in reality, as you've seen, choosing a slicer and dialing in values appropriate to your machine looks like the route you need to take next.

[cyber.shifter]

Thanks for all your help! I'm going to try going back to repetier-host and a standalone slicer. Which one did you use to create the GCODE you sent me?

[cyber.shifter]

Also, I've seen a lot of people talk mad props about Simplify3D slicer, is it really worth the money?

[mhackney]

No

[cyber.shifter]

Good to know. I don't really have the money to drop on it right now anyway, but I was curious. mhackney, any ideas for the best slicer to start with? I only ask because likely my material profiles will have to be redone, since they were performed while I had a major temperature error that I was unaware of. Seems like its going to be difficult to profile materials while trying to setup a new slicer as well, since I won't know if the print problems are due to material, or slicer.

[mhackney]

I highly recommend KISSlicer. But Cura is a good option too. And I just V3 slicing profiles for both of those earlier this week.

[cyber.shifter]

KISSlicer is one that was already on my list too... So I'm going to start with that one. Thanks for the recommendation! I'll have to post up here once I have some results.

[lightninjay]

I use craftware, and you will find almost nobody else reccomending it, because practically nobody else uses it, but I find it to be rather comprehensive and easy to use/setup.

I believe I posted my settings as well.