Extra parts with the V3?

[timskloss]

Isn't it always the case that you have parts left over after fixing stuff?

Anyone know what these are for? They came with my Max V3. I hope they are not important, like lug nuts for a car....

[img]https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5662/22761707118_88c8111b3a.jpg[/img]

Thanks in advance!

[Xenocrates]

Isn't it always the case that you have parts left over after fixing stuff?

Anyone know what these are for? They came with my Max V3. I hope they are not important, like lug nuts for a car....

[img]https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5662/22761707118_88c8111b3a.jpg[/img]

Thanks in advance!

I knew it as soon as I saw the title. That would be the adapters for the IM carriages to connect to older style U-joint axles for the arms. You can toss those.

[timskloss]

Thanks! I have been reading your posts in the forum while waiting for my V3 from MatterHackers (took 4 weeks!!) and I'm sure you have helped many save hundreds of hours of frustration. Keep up the great posts!

[Xenocrates]

I'm glad you enjoy the posts and felt them helpful. I loved the peak into your workbench from your intro thread (Although I didn't comment as I was on terrible hotel internet at the time). I honestly feel there should be a note in the instructions telling people to not worry about these parts. Seems that they've caused a bunch of confusion (Cause V2 owners didn't know what to do with them either after the ball arms started shipping, and look so weirdly specific.)

[skyjuice]

How do you like your V3? I have one and love it, although the thermistors are a little troublesome.

[timskloss]

How do you like your V3? I have one and love it, although the thermistors are a little troublesome.

I loved it through the first spool of PLA, then tried PETG black and had tons of goobers and bad bed adhesion. Tried lots of different things and got some ok prints. Then went back to PLA and nothing would stick to the bed. Replaced the nozzle and everything is fine again with PLA. Don't know why it doesn't like this nozzle all of a sudden. Time to order more I guess.

[Xenocrates]

Perhaps the PETG accidentally got something like silicone lubricant sprayed around it before delivery? It would explain the bad results that tapered off somewhat, but left effects on the nozzle.

[skyjuice]

I cannot get mine to finish a print, even with new, factory assembled parts. About ready to go office space on this piece!! (8% through a 10 hour print and heat bed temps drop and DEF, then of course, no more print.....

[timskloss]

I cannot get mine to finish a print, even with new, factory assembled parts. About ready to go office space on this piece!! (8% through a 10 hour print and heat bed temps drop and DEF, then of course, no more print.....

I found that when using the heated bed stay away from the center of the bed where the thermistor lies. As soon as you extrude hot material on top of the center of the bed it raises the temperature at the thermistor by as much as 10 or more degrees. This causes the Rambo to shut off power to the heated bed because it thinks it is over temperature. By the time the center cools down enough the bed has cooled 20-30 degrees below where you want it causing the part to release.

After learning this I never print material, especially hot material, on the center of the bed.

[skyjuice]

I cannot get mine to finish a print, even with new, factory assembled parts. About ready to go office space on this piece!! (8% through a 10 hour print and heat bed temps drop and DEF, then of course, no more print.....

I found that when using the heated bed stay away from the center of the bed where the thermistor lies. As soon as you extrude hot material on top of the center of the bed it raises the temperature at the thermistor by as much as 10 or more degrees. This causes the Rambo to shut off power to the heated bed because it thinks it is over temperature. By the time the center cools down enough the bed has cooled 20-30 degrees below where you want it causing the part to release.

After learning this I never print material, especially hot material, on the center of the bed.

That was some darn good advice! I moved my latest print away from the center and it has not stopped since! I also put kapton tape in the hole where the thermistor globe stays to prevent the leads from touching the metal edges. Everything is working ok so far. Glad I didn't smash it!!!

[timskloss]

That's great to hear. I am glad the advice kept you from giving up. So far we have had good luck with our V3. It has bee only one week but we have run about 300 meters through it so far.

[Glacian22]

I'm glad you guys found a workaround, but that seems like a pretty nasty bug that SeeMe might want to address. :/

[geneb]

There's not enough thermal mass in the plastic to raise the temperature of the glass enough to affect the thermistor in the heated bed.

I've NEVER seen this happen in any of the machines I have.

g.

[timskloss]

I was printing a small object in PETG at 230C right in the center of the plate directly over the thermistor. In my V3 the thermistor does not touch the bed heater plate, instead it touches the glass plate. I am not sure if this matters or not.

After the first 2 layers I saw that the bed heater LED was completely off. The bed temperature had risen from the 70C set point to 80C which resulted in the bed shutting off until the temperature came back down.

I agree if you are printing a large object at a slow speed you may not see a noticeable increase in temperature, but smaller objects, printed with higher temperature filaments at faster print speeds may amplify the effect.

[geneb]

So...corner case.

g.

[Glacian22]

So...corner case.

g.

The moral of the story: don't stick your thermistor directly to the glass XD