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xnaron wrote:

Eaglezsoar wrote:Xnaron wrote:

- 24 x 3mmx6mm cap head allen screws to be jb welded to the balls. Important: Clean the balls and the screws in an acetone bath before gluing.

I am confused, shouldn't that be 12 instead of 24? There are 6 arms with a ball at each end. Am I missing something?

you are correct. I fixed it. Thanks

Where did you get your tubing while designing these?

Eaglezsoar, you might try hitting Wal-Mart and get six CF arrows. Take a digital caliper with you to make sure they're the right diameter.
If you're lucky, they may stock un-fletched shafts that you can buy. Most sporting goods stores should carry them as well.

g.

geneb wrote:Eaglezsoar, you might try hitting Wal-Mart and get six CF arrows. Take a digital caliper with you to make sure they're the right diameter.
If you're lucky, they may stock un-fletched shafts that you can buy. Most sporting goods stores should carry them as well.

g.

I did exactly that when I went to cabelas. Unfortunately they were all about 0.350" and we need 0.375". I ended up going to my local hobby shop and picked up some 36" long 3/8" (0.35" wall thickness) Aluminum tube made by K&S. I found it on ebay here http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-K-S-Round-A ... 5aef5c990e

Thanks for the ideas on where to get the tubing / rod. I would have never thought of Walmart and the ones linked to
on Ebay look nice also. I'll look at Walmart first and if I don't find anything, then I'll pick up the ones on Ebay. That's
what is so great about this forum, people are willing to help irregardless of the user's level of experience.

xnaron wrote:

elqisqeyano wrote:

xnaron wrote:Update on kits:

I've got a lot going on in my life right now with a move to a new property. At this time a kit won't be coming any time soon. If you are anxious to do this mod the best bet will be for you to follow the instructions and parts list on the first page of this thread. I will be making updates there as time permits. I will also be releasing the openscad files soon.

Brendin

How many perimeters for the boom ends and the arms?

10 perimeters for the boom ends.

This should be a simple concept but not to me. What is meant by 10 perimeters for the boom ends?

Eaglezsoar wrote:

xnaron wrote:

elqisqeyano wrote:

How many perimeters for the boom ends and the arms?

10 perimeters for the boom ends.

This should be a simple concept but not to me. What is meant by 10 perimeters for the boom ends?

Number of loops in KISS. It is the number of perimeter loops around the object. 10 loops on this part will ensure the ball socket is printed with all loops.

Go to www.dragonplate.com/carbonfiber and order the .375" pultruded carbon fiber round tube. It wasn't very expensive. I got mine in the mail today.

Xnaron, could the design be tweaked to use the Wal-Mart arrows? It would certainly cost-reduce it.

g.

geneb wrote:Xnaron, could the design be tweaked to use the Wal-Mart arrows? It would certainly cost-reduce it.

g.

How much are the Walmart arrows?

No idea, but I'd be surprised if they were more than $5 each.

g.

xnaron wrote: Number of loops in KISS. It is the number of perimeter loops around the object. 10 loops on this part will ensure the ball socket is printed with all loops.

Can someone familiar with Kisslicer explain this in a different manner so that someone like me with little experience can understand it. Sorta nubify it?

You can get enough carbon fiber tubing at http://www.dragonplate.com/ecart/catego ... ID=102&p=2 for six arms for much less than that. A 48" tube is $8.50, and a 24" tube is $4.68.

- dan

Eaglezsoar wrote:xnaron wrote: Number of loops in KISS. It is the number of perimeter loops around the object. 10 loops on this part will ensure the ball socket is printed with all loops.

Can someone familiar with Kisslicer explain this in a different manner so that someone like me with little experience can understand it. Sorta nubify it?

Open KISSlicer, Click on Preferences, Advance Settings, Style and look for Number Of Loops. For the ends make sure you input 10 on the Number of Loops. In Slic3r it is Perimeters, it should say 10.

And who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks? I am 60+ and learn new things everyday thanks to the great people on this forum.
THANKS!

Eaglezsoar wrote:And who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks? I am 60+ and learn new things everyday thanks to the great people on this forum.
THANKS!

Glad to hear you worked it out. Once you learn the in's and out's of the Rostock system, what a pretty machine she is.

Eaglezsoar wrote:And who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks? I am 60+ and learn new things everyday thanks to the great people on this forum.
THANKS!

My body feels like it's 102 some days, yet mentally I at times feel 12. Is this normal, LOL.

Today is a body 102 day for me. Mentally, well I suppose that's for you guys to judge not me.....Oh look something sparkly....gotta go!

Flateric wrote:

Eaglezsoar wrote:And who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks? I am 60+ and learn new things everyday thanks to the great people on this forum.
THANKS!

My body feels like it's 102 some days, yet mentally I at times feel 12. Is this normal, LOL.

Today is a body 102 day for me. Mentally, well I suppose that's for you guys to judge not me.....Oh look something sparkly....gotta go!

Today?... Sounds like 12, Priceless. LOL

Hey Flateric, you can be a hoot at times. Thanks for the chuckle!

Just received my magnets today so I have all the pieces done accept for the carbon fiber tubes I ordered. I did a quick check on the strength off the magnets and the balls, very secure connection. Now just waiting on the tubes. Will post pics once I assemble everything when the tubes come in.

First print. Looking good!!!

elqisqeyano wrote:Just received my magnets today so I have all the pieces done accept for the carbon fiber tubes I ordered. I did a quick check on the strength off the magnets and the balls, very secure connection. Now just waiting on the tubes. Will post pics once I assemble everything when the tubes come in.

elqisqeyano- Do the magnets fit into your rod ends? Mine fit way too tightly and I had to chase the holes with a drill. Other than that and moving my limit switches because I had them on the other side, the upgrade went pretty easily.

Thanks Xnaron!!!

Broose wrote:

FIRST PRINT.jpg

First print. Looking good!!!

How difficult was it to JB weld the Balls to the cap screws?

Broose wrote:

elqisqeyano wrote:Just received my magnets today so I have all the pieces done accept for the carbon fiber tubes I ordered. I did a quick check on the strength off the magnets and the balls, very secure connection. Now just waiting on the tubes. Will post pics once I assemble everything when the tubes come in.

elqisqeyano- Do the magnets fit into your rod ends? Mine fit way too tightly and I had to chase the holes with a drill. Other than that and moving my limit switches because I had them on the other side, the upgrade went pretty easily.

Thanks Xnaron!!!

I was able to insert the magnets by forcibly and lightly tapping then into the cup section 'till they were snug. I figured they would be a bit tight but that is a good thing. Now my ends are perfect ID, after lightly tapping magnets in, for when the tubes get here. Your set up look so good and clean. That print is looking flawless. I will be installing my hot end a bit closer to the effector than your install to try and keep my Z height. I will be using aluminum heat shielding insulated tape. Plus the Fan on the E3D should help keep temps cool enough to not melt the effector. At least I am hoping.

This set up gives a new life and meaning to the Rostock Max.

elqisqeyano wrote:

Broose wrote:

FIRST PRINT.jpg

First print. Looking good!!!

How difficult was it to JB weld the Balls to the cap screws?

Not hard at all. If the ball is sitting on the rod end with the magnet inside, the magnetism holds the cap screw to the ball. I kind of twisted the cap screws upside down into the JB weld to pick up just enough JB Weld on the top.

I had to carefully use small needle nose pliers on the side of the top part of the cap screw below the ball when installing the cap screw/ball combination, because it still takes a fair amount of force to screw it in, even though I ran a longer 3mm screw through first a few times to get the thread going. On the other hand, if I had had a piece of latex rubber between my fingers and the ball, that might have allowed me to apply more force so that I wouldn't have needed the needle nose pliers.