Assembly manual discussion thread!

[dtgriscom]

See this thread for an example of what the resulting problems might be.

[Eaglezsoar]

See this thread for an example of what the resulting problems might be.

The key word is "might". If you are that concerned about it now even before assembly is complete, you are always going to be concerned.
The best option to alleviate your concerns would be to purchase the Trick Laser arms for the V2. Please have a good build.

[dtgriscom]

The key word is "might". If you are that concerned about it now even before assembly is complete, you are always going to be concerned. The best option to alleviate your concerns would be to purchase the Trick Laser arms for the V2. Please have a good build.

Well, it will be just as easy to fix it later as now, so I'll hang fire for the moment.


Dan

[Eaglezsoar]

The key word is "might". If you are that concerned about it now even before assembly is complete, you are always going to be concerned. The best option to alleviate your concerns would be to purchase the Trick Laser arms for the V2. Please have a good build.

Well, it will be just as easy to fix it later as now, so I'll hang fire for the moment.


Dan

Sounds good, at least you know what options are available if and when you need them.

[Jimustanguitar]

Just did the V1 to V2 conversion (disclaimer, did not read every single line) but had a few suggestions for the next revision.


Pages 11 and 23. The wood parts now come in 4 full sheets, not 3 plus a single part like it used to.

Page 50. Typo on the Rambo Star. You may also nickname it the snowflake since it's often referred to it that way on the forum.

Page 81. You should mention that the cheapskate carriages are not symmetrical a little earlier in the build. You mention this later with the eyes facing the right direction, but it's worth restating (or pre-stating) at each step. Especially before it's time to snap the carriage bases and t-nuts into the wooden piece without the eyes. My.. um... friend got this wrong the first time.

Page 154. If people really hate the idea of soldering the Rambo fan directly to the board, you could also suggest connecting these wires to the input power connector or to the Heat 1 connector where the PEEK fan goes.


A few general suggestions about the order of assembly.
I would have people tap the 10-32 threads before installing the vertical supports in section 4 and the tower spacers in section 7. This will keep dust out of your machine.
I would have people silicone the thermistor into the Onyx at the beginning when you do the hot-end. That way it's out of the way up front and has time to dry. The Onyx could be installed later and eliminate the need to cover it up and protect it while working on the arms and effector.


Awesome job as always, Gene. Our community would be lost without the hard work that you put into your directions! Thank you, sir.

[dtgriscom]

I would have people tap the 10-32 threads before installing the vertical supports in section 4 and the tower spacers in section 7. This will keep dust out of your machine.

This only matters if you do it for real with a tap. Using the 10-32 bolt they include (which actually works reasonably well if you wiggle it a bit as you drill it in) won't produce dust.


But, good suggestions.

And, as you say, props to Gene.


Dan

[Jimustanguitar]

One other note. This will only matter to people doing the V1 > V2 conversion, but since they'll be using the same manual it may be worth adding a sentence...

The original kits have rough edges on the aluminum extrusions from when they were cut to length. Before being slipped through the holes in the V2 wooden frame, you'll have to deburr them with a file. It's quick and easy, but very necessary.

[Pingel]

Highlighted section of page 38...

It might be handy to have the screws for the acrylic covers actually in the picture or word it so that the heads of the screws are on the inside.

I had to flip to the back of the manual to figure out which way they actually go in.

So far everything else is working great!

[geneb]

Moar editses!

g.

[Tonkabot]

SNIP

Page 81. You should mention that the cheapskate carriages are not symmetrical a little earlier in the build. You mention this later with the eyes facing the right direction, but it's worth restating (or pre-stating) at each step. Especially before it's time to snap the carriage bases and t-nuts into the wooden piece without the eyes. My.. um... friend got this wrong the first time.

My 'friend' had the same problem, and now my CC eyes are backwards on all three cheapskates. I pounded all the T-nuts in with a hammer (light tapping works fine) and didn't really want to pry them out.

I would suggest laser printing some text saying this side up or in or something on the correct sides, but I saw pictures of an injection molded cheapskate, so going forward I suspect it will be a non-issue.

[geneb]

That edit was done last week or the week before.

g.

[Eaglezsoar]

SNIP

Page 81. You should mention that the cheapskate carriages are not symmetrical a little earlier in the build. You mention this later with the eyes facing the right direction, but it's worth restating (or pre-stating) at each step. Especially before it's time to snap the carriage bases and t-nuts into the wooden piece without the eyes. My.. um... friend got this wrong the first time.

My 'friend' had the same problem, and now my CC eyes are backwards on all three cheapskates. I pounded all the T-nuts in with a hammer (light tapping works fine) and didn't really want to pry them out.

I would suggest laser printing some text saying this side up or in or something on the correct sides, but I saw pictures of an injection molded cheapskate, so going forward I suspect it will be a non-issue.

You should have monitored your friend better, perhaps try to talking to him while standing in front of a mirror.

[dgriff]

Been doing some additional dialing-in and found that I had to set my ext1 steps per mm to 182.640 for it to feed precisely 1mm of filament out. Tested over 10, 30 and 100mm distances and it was consistent.

Any ideas why that might be the case over the recommended 92.65 in the documentation? Since it's almost precisely 2x the listed value, it seemed like something might be amiss somewhere?

[dtgriscom]

(Just when you thought it was safe...)

Here's some more comments on the manual (everything validated on version 1.26):

• Page 9: You might want to add "Additional 4" Cable Ties" to the optional list of materials needed; I used up the included 12 long before I finished (too many Barbies to handcuff, I guess).
• Page 121: Section 13 is titled "Wiring & Installing the Hot End, Bowden Tube", but the hot end isn't actually installed until section 15 ("Installing the Hot End"). So perhaps a better title would be "Wiring and Assembling the Hot End, Bowden Tube".
• Pages 128 and 235: As you tell people to tighten the large nut, you might want to tell people to NOT use pliers on the PEEK tube.
• Page 133, typo in second sentence: "like a spring an can be opened"
• Page 133: You should specify which way effector platform should be installed (with the SEEMECNC text pointing down, right?)
• Page 137: move the Spool Arms from the list on this page to the list on page 141
• Page 160; mention to the reader that all wires to the RAMBo should be routed out through the vertical support's center hole. Otherwise when the LCD is installed on page 173 the wires will get pinched.
• Figure 18-19, page 163; it's a bit confusing that you have one set of connectors outlined in green, but a separate set of connectors labeled "X", "Y" and "Z". It might be better if you moved the labels to below the target connectors so they didn't match up with any wrong connectors
• Page 167: Make sure to install the ribbon cables EXACTLY as shown, with the red edge towards the long end of the interface board, and with the ribbons coming off the correct side of the connectors. You'll have to figure out which end of each cable to use; only one will work.
• Page 174: It would probably be a good idea to install some sort of strain relief on the USB cable to prevent yanking on and damaging the RAMBo USB connector.
• Page 184: The download link for the Arduino IDE has changed, and is now http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software. (Yes, your link is forwarded, but it may not always be, especially if they re-rearrange their website.)
• Page 185: on the Mac, you'll want to use a serial port of the form "tty.usbmodemXXX". If you can't figure out which one to use, unplug your Rostock MAX, wait a couple of seconds, and then look at the choices in the Tools/Serial Port menu. Then plug in your Rostock MAX, wait a few more seconds, and then check the Tools/Serial Port menu again. One of the new items will be what you want; use the "tty." version rather than the "cu." version.
• Page 188: you might have to navigate several folders deep before you find the file to uploaded.
• Page 227: You recommend the Hansen Hobbies PDF on connectors, but it never shows how to install the pins in the BEC connectors (there's a right way and a wrong way). One place I found that does is http://www.micronwings.com/Products/JST ... ndex.shtml .
• Page 235: You give some useful detail to assembling the hot end to the mounting plate in Appendix A; you might want to add that detail to the main text at p128.

As always, thanks for a great manual,
Dan

[Tonkabot]

Oh, I was wondering what happened to chapter 22. Seems to be deleted or something.

[Jimustanguitar]

Been doing some additional dialing-in and found that I had to set my ext1 steps per mm to 182.640 for it to feed precisely 1mm of filament out. Tested over 10, 30 and 100mm distances and it was consistent.

Any ideas why that might be the case over the recommended 92.65 in the documentation? Since it's almost precisely 2x the listed value, it seemed like something might be amiss somewhere?

This is pretty normal. The exact diameter of the filament will vary, and so will how hard/soft the filament is. There also could be tolerances that vary between the springs used in the extruder, pressure required to push through the bowden tube, etc.

The fact that you measured a different value is evidence of your own thoroughness and not of a problem or quality control issue.

[dtgriscom]

Been doing some additional dialing-in and found that I had to set my ext1 steps per mm to 182.640 for it to feed precisely 1mm of filament out. Tested over 10, 30 and 100mm distances and it was consistent.

Any ideas why that might be the case over the recommended 92.65 in the documentation? Since it's almost precisely 2x the listed value, it seemed like something might be amiss somewhere?

This is pretty normal. The exact diameter of the filament will vary, and so will how hard/soft the filament is. There also could be tolerances that vary between the springs used in the extruder, pressure required to push through the bowden tube, etc.

The fact that you measured a different value is evidence of your own thoroughness and not of a problem or quality control issue.

But, off by a factor of two? That isn't quality control, that's a mis-operation (for lack of a better word). Mis-control of the stepper motor? Wrong microstepping option (e.g. 8x versus 16x)? Lots of drag on the stepper causing it to be able to move only once every two steps? The calipers are completely whacked?


Strange...
Dan

[Jimustanguitar]

I wasn't reading that closely Perhaps you have a motor with .09deg steps instead of 1.8?

Check the sticker on it.

[OMW_Jun]

I just got to printing the fan mounts linked in the latest assembly manual but download for the blower fan shroud doesn't contain a .stl, it may need to be re-uploaded. The peek fan mount printed great though!

[dtgriscom]

I just got to printing the fan mounts linked in the latest assembly manual but download for the blower fan shroud doesn't contain a .stl, it may need to be re-uploaded. The peek fan mount printed great though!

I also had trouble downloading the layer fan. There's a "Download" button at the bottom of the "johnoly99" column, with a reveal arrow next to it. If you click the button itself then you get a bad download (it seems to be some sort of zipped version of the web page structure?). However, if you click the reveal arrow, and then click the "Download" button that it reveals, then you get the proper zipped STL.


Confusing...
Dan

[OMW_Jun]

I just got to printing the fan mounts linked in the latest assembly manual but download for the blower fan shroud doesn't contain a .stl, it may need to be re-uploaded. The peek fan mount printed great though!

I also had trouble downloading the layer fan. There's a "Download" button at the bottom of the "johnoly99" column, with a reveal arrow next to it. If you click the button itself then you get a bad download (it seems to be some sort of zipped version of the web page structure?). However, if you click the reveal arrow, and then click the "Download" button that it reveals, then you get the proper zipped STL.


Confusing...
Dan

Thanks!

[Eaglezsoar]

Here is the STL.

NEW2-Guanu-Blower-Fan-Holder-Shroud.STL

(146.18 KiB) Downloaded 555 times

[guanu]

stop hacking my computer eagle! (lol j/k)

Guanu

[Eaglezsoar]

stop hacking my computer eagle! (lol j/k)

Guanu

No way, make your computer hack proof if you can. Lots of luck!

[Nylocke]

Looks like eagle is a 1337 H4X0R, H4X me now