Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

JFettig wrote:What brand ABS are you printing? I have had some really nasty black ABS that comes out looking like that(or worse). Higher temps help layer adhesion, might bring other problems with it though.

What are your speeds?

This is ABS from SeeMeCNC.

HotEnd was 235
Bed 100
Infill 40 mm/s
Inside Perimeters 40
Outside perimeters 30
Non print moves 300

As noted earlier, I added the Halogen bulbs to the enclosure last weekend.

Today, I noted that with the enclosure and the three Halogen bulbs at 100%, the small print shown was not hard and flexing. I noticed with each layer the curled edges were flexing with each subsequent layer, thus it was not hardening by the time the next layer was placed.

When I opened the door this hardened immediately. The chamber was about 55 degrees C which I measured at the edge of the enclosure. Makes me think that the temperature at the center of the bed and at the print end is much hotter.

The next thing I will build is a thermometer which is right at the HotEnd.

I ordered a thermometer for the enclosure (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L0S ... UTF8&psc=1).

I am thinking I would attach this to one of the Z-Delta arms and place the tip of the thermometer near the print bed. If i place it 0.5 cm above the bed it shouldn't be a problem and would be fairly accurate for the temperature at the print level.

Next, I'm printing the belt tensioners to avoid slipping since I know how that ends up as previously noted (http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 3&start=51)

Belt Tensioners? Enlighten me please!

Neptune wrote:Belt Tensioners? Enlighten me please!

I had trouble with my Y-axis belt which loosened and caused problems as noted above.

Thus, I have been looking for something to allow fine adjustments and minimize the likelihood of the idler sliping again. As well, I like the ability to ensure that the belt runs in the middle of the bearing and does not wear on the sides. I like the way these look and am printing them today (http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 5&start=96). Will likely put them on this weekend. :') will keep you posted.

I have often wondered what the correct tension is for these belts. Too much slack and the HotEnd will hit the print. However, I worry too much tension and it will unnecessarily wear the steppers.

3D-Print wrote:

Neptune wrote:Belt Tensioners? Enlighten me please!

I have often wondered what the correct tension is for these belts. Too much slack and the HotEnd will hit the print. However, I worry too much tension and it will unnecessarily wear the steppers.

I wonder the same thing myself. Is there any type of test to tell if the tension is correct? Thanks for the link. I downloaded the stl for the tensioners. I would just like to know what is considered the proper tension.

mvansomeren wrote:

3D-Print wrote:

Neptune wrote:Belt Tensioners? Enlighten me please!

I have often wondered what the correct tension is for these belts. Too much slack and the HotEnd will hit the print. However, I worry too much tension and it will unnecessarily wear the steppers.

I wonder the same thing myself. Is there any type of test to tell if the tension is correct? Thanks for the link. I downloaded the stl for the tensioners. I would just like to know what is considered the proper tension.

There are ways to measure the tension on a belt such that when displaced by X mm exerts X force. Simple tools such as this (http://www.amazon.com/Gates-7401-0076-P ... ion+meters) or more expensive toys. Not sure what the correct tension would be for these belts.

3D-Print wrote:

mvansomeren wrote:

3D-Print wrote:
I have often wondered what the correct tension is for these belts. Too much slack and the HotEnd will hit the print. However, I worry too much tension and it will unnecessarily wear the steppers.

I wonder the same thing myself. Is there any type of test to tell if the tension is correct? Thanks for the link. I downloaded the stl for the tensioners. I would just like to know what is considered the proper tension.

There are ways to measure the tension on a belt such that when displaced by X mm exerts X force. Simple tools such as this (http://www.amazon.com/Gates-7401-0076-P ... ion+meters) or more expensive toys. Not sure what the correct tension would be for these belts.

Thanks for the link, and I think that as long as you don't get the pry bar out and tighten the snot out the belts I don't think you will have an issue. I think that having them as close to the same is as important if not more so than having them really tight. I have mine snug and I try to have the same amount of belt deflection at the center of the pillar on all three belts. Having a belt tensioner would help with this, because the current method doesn't afford small changes.

I've been reading about the eventual need to replace/update the resisters. Thus was thinking ahead and was putting together a list of future needs. If and when this happens would replacing thee resister with:

1pc Reprap 12v 40w Ceramic Cartridge Heater: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J1POHZ4/ref ... bvb0TW6YHB


As well an M3 thermister such as this? Modular Screw-on M3 Stud Thermistor for RepRap 3D Printer Extruder RP One Labs http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00THZJIY8/ref ... bvb0WC9P8G

I finally installed the thermometer I previously ordered for my enclosure (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L0S ... UTF8&psc=1).

I ran 14 gauge wire up the channel of the enclosure after connecting to an unused power pack black and yellow. I slipped the probe down next to the Bowden tube to the print head and zip tied the thermometer tip to one of the Y-axis arms without touching the universal joint. I then tested to make sure that there was no impingement with manual movement of the print head as well as movement through MatterControl. We previously printed a curved bracket and then inserted this bracket (see attached STL) snugly between the upper an lower top plates. I trimmed back the acrylic cover to fit and it looks quite nice. I heated up the HotEnd and print surface and with the three halogen lights in high it is now 46.6 C after 30 min.

Overall looks good, and with this should be able to see what the temperatures of the enclosure are at the level of the print head.

Another image of the thermometer "holder." Of note you can see some dimples in the bracket which occurs when the print head is changing direction when printing fill. This happened using Cura Slicer with the wall being two layers.

I've kept track of all my cost to date. Everything detailed in my build thread beyond the kit has cost $384.47 to build.

However, I've spent $655.59 on filament. I have a filament stockpile since I've ordered multiple spools at a time to spread out shipping.

I do like HatchBox filament and with Google Prime shipping is free!!!

Holy moly thats a lot of filament. I really like that enclosure, maybe i missed it but where did you source the plexi? Was it precut?

AlphaLima wrote:Holy moly thats a lot of filament. I really like that enclosure, maybe i missed it but where did you source the plexi? Was it precut?

I agree. But it should last a while. I keep them in a 5-gallon bucket with a Gamma-Seal lid from Amazon. I also put some desiccant silicone from Amazon in each bucket (Hydrosorbent OSG-40 Silica Gel Dehumidifier Desiccant 40 Gram).

I bought a sheet of Lexan from Lowes and cut the sheet at Lowes when I bought it.

So after 629 hours of printing I readjusted my cheapskates and belts. I found my Y-axis and Z-axis belt clips were not tight and the belts had slipped half a notch. In short, the belts were not very tight and definitely not of equal tension. As well the cheapskates were loose.

Thus, I adjusted the eccentric spacers to tighten the cheapskates. Then, I loosened the top belt idlers and the the belt clips and tightened each X, Y and Z belts a couple of notches. Then retightened the belt clips, and installed my belt adjusters which can be found here (http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 5&start=96). You can see that I re-taped the towers to prevent heat loss form the enclosure/chamber.

I love how the adjusters worked. It was easy to adjust and specifically was easy to adjust each side such that the belts ran in the middle of the idlers. I do think think the belts are a bit tighter than before. At some point in time I will figure a way to determine the tension in the belts as previously posted such that there is a standard and appropriate tension as previously mentioned (http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... &start=106).

I'm now reprinting the "Bandaid" model (http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 100#p67166) to see if there is a difference in the quality of the print it did previously (http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 125#p67266).

I am printing a long print and left my halogens on high for a bit. It was 65 degrees C at the bed level. I've found that is to hot on prints which have a small footprint. The ABS is to soft at that chamber temp and "fine textured aspects" of the print do not turn out well. In those cases 45 degrees is better.

Addendum: Print Bed was at 100 and the HotEnd at 228.

Printing the articulated dog. With these smaller pieces I leave the enclosure door open otherwise the ABS doesn't firm up before the next layer. This is with the bed at 90 degrees and the temp at the print level is 31 degrees C. You can see that the first layers are not as nice and this was when the print bed was at 100 degrees.

Just upgraded to TrickArms.

In short......... They are AWESOME!!!

Print quality has improved and the small shift in the layers during my prints are gone!!!!

Last weekend I installed a 12 V squirrel cage fan to vent the enclosure. This has worked awesome and nicely/effectively vents the smell of the hot filament. With my halogens within the enclosure, the chamber is still hot.

I made another thread if interested in what I did (http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=8458)

After 1500 hours of printing my hot end would not maintain temp. I took apart the HotEnd and indeed the resisters were loose and as suspected "done/blown!" (Picture #1).

Thus, although I have had the Diamond HotEnd for months, it was time to install it and see how it worked. It took a couple of hours and now am on my first print after recalibration everything. So far so good!! I love the stock HotEnd and have new resistors to repair and thus have a backup!!!

Now that the Diamond is up and running, next is to install the geared steppers and the Duet with Duex4 and PanelDue. Someday I will get RGB printing up and running!!!!!!!

Someday I will RGB print like JJPowelly (http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=9839)

So I've been watching the Diamond HotEnd for the past couple hours. As compared to the stock HotEnd as calibrated, the Diamond needs to be 6-8 degrees cooler for the same effect. I was running the stocks HotEnd at 230 with very mild stringing, no blebs, and great layer adhesion. With the Diamond I have watched each sequential layer I have great and equivalent and awesome layers at 224 degrees.

Here is the bracket I have designed to hold the Duet, Duex4 and PanelDue. Everything is scaled correctly and I'm now printing the base and faceplate. Once printed I will post pictures and files. The only thing I need to add is an "opening" for the USB port of the PanelDuo Controller. One this is done, I will upload this new .STL file.

Enjoy!!

UpDate: 2/13/2016. I added new STL files which after printing, I made sure that everything aligned. Also added in a couple of holes for the USB cable, reset button and SD card on the PanelDue.