E3D V4 All metal hotend

[Nylocke]

Are the effector and the rod ends parts from the Xnaron magnetic arms thread?

I was wondering the same thing...

[lordbinky]

I modified a couple different scad files since I used 1/2" N50 magnets I already had, and made the rods from carbon fiber arrow shafts since they were cheap and easily available. I'm going to write up and post my files in the thread when I make one last adjustment, I'm making another set of arm plates because the ones I made I didn't modify enough and so they restrict movement near the towers.

Oh and my heater cartridge that was labeled and sold as a 40watt 12v and is actually 24V 40watt, it measures 13 ohms which comes out to be a 44W.

[626Pilot]

Alright, well now there is a printable mount for using the Bowden version. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:137140

[Eaglezsoar]

626pilot, thanks for posting the link for the E3D mount. I was hoping someone would come out with that.
The wood ones from SeemeCNC works okay but it is nice to have options. Thanks again!

[kbob]

626pilot, thanks for posting the link for the E3D mount. I was hoping someone would come out with that.
The wood ones from SeemeCNC works okay but it is nice to have options. Thanks again!

And thanks for designing it!

I haven't bought an E3D hot end yet, but now I know I can make the Bowden version work.

[626Pilot]

I got the hot end mounted and measured the extruded filament right around 0.5, but the nozzle is supposed to be 0.4. Is that normal? The plastic that came out of my .35 Buda nozzle was .35 wide.

[Flateric]

I got the hot end mounted and measured the extruded filament right around 0.5, but the nozzle is supposed to be 0.4. Is that normal? The plastic that came out of my .35 Buda nozzle was .35 wide.

Really? All of my nozzles have always shown some slight filament expansion upon exit of the nozzle. I just took it as that was the way it was and never thought about it again.

I'll measure my .6 nozzles plastic extrusion here and post back.

[lordbinky]

I've only printed ABS so far, but i've always had it expand slightly greater than the actual nozzle diameter when extruding in the air. It stretches back down to nozzle diameter or less when printing, after cooling shrinkage and the shrinkage from the material being stretched as it prints.

[626Pilot]

It seems to print fine at 0.4 so I guess it's alright.

[Flateric]

My .6 nozzle extruders 0.74 with nylon anyways.

[geneb]

It's called "die swell". I suspect Polygonhell can explain it better than I can.

g.

[626Pilot]

Filament continues to expand after leaving the extruder because the inside mass is still hot?

[cope413]

I've been following this thread, and it seems like everyone who has one is pretty happy with the results. The customer support certainly seems to be excellent - even from 5500 miles away.

Still a bit hesitant because of the cost and lead time. On a scale of "Not worth it" to "Must Have", with "Luxury" being the middle ground, what's the consensus on this hotend for the Max from everyone here who has one and has run it for more than a few hours?

I've got some money in my paypal account from print jobs and it's burning a hole in my digital pocket...

[Flateric]

For me it's a absolutely essential piece of my printer I would not do without. And not only because of the high temp materials I often print.

[JohnStack]

Ibid, must have.

[626Pilot]

On a scale of "Not worth it" to "Must Have", with "Luxury" being the middle ground, what's the consensus on this hotend for the Max from everyone here who has one and has run it for more than a few hours?

I loaded up my orange ABS and printed with it for several hours, enjoying the fact that I could just press go without having to manually burp the nozzle and wipe it like I do with PLA. Likewise, I could let it sit between prints with the heater on for five or ten minutes and it would never jam.

After a few hours, I looked at the spool. It wasn't ABS. It was PLA! I was printing it 30 degrees hotter than necessary, but it still worked. Never jammed, not once. It never even drooled! The Budaschnozzle I was using before was really good with PLA, I thought, but I still had to burp it.

IMO, this is the best hot end. The secret sauce seems to be a really small neck between the heater block and the heat sink, and not allowing the flange on the nozzle to contact the heater block. This thing will run for hours at 225C, and as long as you have that cooling fan turned on, the heat sink fins are all room temperature or perhaps BARELY above. If I had it to do over, I'd get this nozzle immediately. It's cheaper than a Buda and it works better. All that's missing is for them to get picked up by a US distributor. They have bulk pricing and it gets cheaper the more you buy.

Five stars all the way. Order it today, it'll be worth the wait.

[626Pilot]

I updated the Bowden version mount to include a version of the upper plate with cable management. It's a clip, thin enough to be bent open and wide enough to handle the heat and sense wires zip-tied together. I also updated the instructions about how to top-mount it: you need 2.5" #6-32 screws and 1.5" spacers. I recommend longer screws so you have something to lash the wires to.

[Eaglezsoar]

I updated the Bowden version mount to include a version of the upper plate with cable management. It's a clip, thin enough to be bent open and wide enough to handle the heat and sense wires zip-tied together. I also updated the instructions about how to top-mount it: you need 2.5" #6-32 screws and 1.5" spacers. I recommend longer screws so you have something to lash the wires to.

Why does your link take me to amazon.com to buy Lactase-Drops?
A good link: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:137140

[626Pilot]

I updated the Bowden version mount to include a version of the upper plate with cable management. It's a clip, thin enough to be bent open and wide enough to handle the heat and sense wires zip-tied together. I also updated the instructions about how to top-mount it: you need 2.5" #6-32 screws and 1.5" spacers. I recommend longer screws so you have something to lash the wires to.

Why does your link take me to amazon.com to buy Lactase-Drops?
A good link: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:137140

LOL. Thanks. We figured out it can be slightly cheaper to put lactase enzymes into $3 milk than it is to buy Lactaid.

[cope413]

Well, lactose drops aside, I took the plunge and ordered the V5.

Going to print the holder before it shows up sometime in the next 2-6 weeks...

626Pilot, would you mind take a picture of your setup from the side so I can see how long the screws protrude? You said you used 2.5" and you use the extra length to zip tie cables to, but I can't really tell from the picture how much extra that gives you.

[626Pilot]

They actually don't protrude. There is just enough for the nylock nuts I secured them with. I would use a 3.5" #6-32 or longer. The heater cartridge is just a cartridge with bare wire coming out of it - there is no strain relief connecting the insulated part to the cartridge. That means you have to take special care not to let the wire flex at all, or else you're looking at them either breaking or burning out a fuse. The cable management clip should help a lot with that, but it's still better to lash them to something really solid.

[cope413]

I just printed them. I think I see what you mean, but until I get the hotend, I won't know exactly how it all lines up. Nice work on the design. Simple and easy to print.


Also, I just got shipping confirmation from E3D! It said 4 weeks when I ordered it on Tuesday. Christmas come early...

[626Pilot]

I just printed them. I think I see what you mean, but until I get the hotend, I won't know exactly how it all lines up. Nice work on the design. Simple and easy to print.


Also, I just got shipping confirmation from E3D! It said 4 weeks when I ordered it on Tuesday. Christmas come early...

I just saw today on their site that they're shipping everything in 2 days right now. If you can't fit the top plate without having to force it, print it again with a lower flow rate.

I have been thinking about adding a small mast to the top plate next to the cable management clip to lash wires to. Is that something you'd find useful?

[Eaglezsoar]

I just printed them. I think I see what you mean, but until I get the hotend, I won't know exactly how it all lines up. Nice work on the design. Simple and easy to print.


Also, I just got shipping confirmation from E3D! It said 4 weeks when I ordered it on Tuesday. Christmas come early...

I think you may get a happy surprise, I ordered two of the E3D hotends on the beginning of this month and had them in 17 days. (Ohio)
They are getting getting better with their shipping times.

[cope413]

Not sure about that 'mast'. I'm pretty OCD about my wiring - even going so far as de-soldering connections and twisting stranded wires until all of them settle in the same way. I even bought different push-to-fit connectors for the Bowden tube because the stock ones allowed the PTFE tube to rotate too much, and it would twist like an old corded phone line. The loop would constantly change its position and it drove me crazy.

I'd be embarrassed to tell you how many zip ties I've wasted because I didn't like exactly how the wires were situated in a tie after tightening it...

That being said, the hotend is scheduled for arrival on Tuesday. Once I get it installed, I'll let you know if I think that would be something useful for 'normal' people.



...My doctor said she'd start lowering my dosage one of these days...