E3D has released new hotends!

[rpress]

What hardware do the CHIMERA and CYCLOPS come with? There is a pic here:http://e3d-online.com/Chimera but does it come with any sort of mounting hardware or do I need to make a trip to the hardware store? Mine arrives Monday

-by mounting hardware, I mean screws, not platform attachments of course

My Cyclops came with 3x M3x10? button head screws and washers for mounting it.

[0110-m-p]

I'm going to go ahead and post up my Chimera/Cyclops mount design STL's tonight if anyone wants to try them out ahead of me getting mine.

[0110-m-p]

Uploaded all my designs to thingiverse.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:661039

[JFettig]

Mine showed up early

[JFettig]

so I've got mine installed and I'm configuring software, looking for the thermister and clicked on "random page" on the E3D wiki - might be useful to some of you! http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/Cyclops ... umentation

A couple pages for dual extrusion I'm working from:
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1946
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=2152

Reference page I just put up from compiled data plus what I figured out the hard way
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 942#p60942

[mhackney]

FedEx just trudged through 4' of snow through my front walk (which was shoveled last night) to deliver these:

Now I need some time! I've had so many orders for 3D printed reels since Field & Stream did that video that my printer is running around the clock.

[mhackney]

0110-m-p, I checked out your mounts, they look good. I'd like to mount my cyclops nozzle on center but wonder about that 1.3 mm clearance between the heater block and platform. The other option is underslung like I have my Kraken. You lose a bit of Z but it works. And I guess it would allow me to swap back to the Kraken a little easier since all the wiring and Bowdens would terminate at the same place.

[0110-m-p]

The small clearance is the main reason I decided to make a modified (offset) design as well. I was thinking of using some fiberglass/silicone thermal wrap on the heater block to eliminate any chance of damage to the platform from the heat.

[mhackney]

I got my Cyclops assembled - took all of 10 minutes. I've decided to go with an underslung mount and I'm going to design one that can be swapped back and forth from the Rostock to the Mini Kossel. I'm going to be gaining some Z when I install my TrickTrucks. I want to make the ring a little thicker so it can be tapped for the mounting screws like I did on my Kraken Konnector.

[bubbasnow]

i wonder how your reel will look printed with volcano

[JFettig]

Here is the platform I'm running right now.
http://repables.com/r/470

No provisions for layer cooling.

[JFettig]

How are people handling the 2nd nozzle dragging causing print issues? I have my support nozzle at the exact same height as the extrusion nozzle and it still causes warping issues.

Print on the left is both at the same height, print on the right, I raised it up out of the way since I wasn't using it. Its very hit or miss, I just ran a 3 hour print right before this and had no issues with the nozzle dragging.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/sC9S8nZ.jpg[/img]

[gestalt73]

How are people handling the 2nd nozzle dragging causing print issues? I have my support nozzle at the exact same height as the extrusion nozzle and it still causes warping issues.]

And that, my friend, is exactly why I gave up on dual nozzle printing. I had very little difficulty with levelling the nozzles, and never even had a problem with ooze.

(This experience is conveyed from attempting ABS + HIPS prints.)
But the slightest curling of the print would catch the other nozzle and cause a failure. Almost every single time.
With single nozzle prints, the curl is pressed down by the nozzle on successive layers, but with dual nozzle prints it will invariably catch on the other print head.

I hear legends of people who have gotten it to work, I've tried printing cooler and slower, 100c bed temps, with an enclosure, and still the slightest curl will cause the print to fail.

That's why I have high hopes for the Cyclops, which I'll hopefully have together this weekend.

[mhackney]

I finally gave up on the Kraken for that reason - at least as a multi extruder hot end. As a single hotend it can't be beat. I'm sold on water cooling. I've literally not had a single PLA plug or any hot end failure in over a year with it. Until multi nozzle hot ends lift the unused nozzles out of the way, it is basically a matter of luck (good or bad depending) that you get a print that isn't sheared off the bed, mottled with filament from the other nozzles, etc.

The new Cyclops is a much better alternative for now. I have one and am trying to get my $%^&* mini kossel/Smoothiboard working so I can mount it and get it going. It has the advantage of being able to mix two different colors in different proportions too (with some post processing scripts).

[jram]

I finally gave up on the Kraken for that reason - at least as a multi extruder hot end. As a single hotend it can't be beat. I'm sold on water cooling. I've literally not had a single PLA plug or any hot end failure in over a year with it. Until multi nozzle hot ends lift the unused nozzles out of the way, it is basically a matter of luck (good or bad depending) that you get a print that isn't sheared off the bed, mottled with filament from the other nozzles, etc.

The new Cyclops is a much better alternative for now. I have one and am trying to get my $%^&* mini kossel/Smoothiboard working so I can mount it and get it going. It has the advantage of being able to mix two different colors in different proportions too (with some post processing scripts).

Hi Mhackney. Speaking of the Cyclops, I'm thinking about getting one. Does the Rambo support this type of hot end?

[bubbasnow]

yes Rambo supports dual extrusion, the cyclops is a simpler kind of dual material extrusion.

here is one of my first prints with cyclops

[img]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-onnm ... 083538.jpg[/img]

[jdurand]

I see my Chimera was shipped today. I had originally ordered a Cyclops but E3D talked me out of it. At least once I install the heatsink I'll be able to switch to the Cyclops if that seems the better deal.

[mhackney]

Bubbasnow, the print looks great! I'm hoping to finally get my kossel online this weekend so I can mount the Cyclops. I can't afford (literally!) to touch my Rostock as it is basically making fly fishing reel parts 12+ hours a day now. Unbelievable actually! Not enough to feed the family but one more step in that direction.

It is clever that they use the same cool zone for Cyclops and Chimera. I am sure they will offer a "swap over" kit for these.

Meanwhile, I am looking at converting mine to water cooling. My experience with the water cooled Kraken has been off the top positive. I literally have had no PLA plugging issues in over a year of continuous running. Although the new E3D V6 is excellent, I still have a hiccup here and there with it. Could be not completely dialed in but given the MO of the hiccup, I really believe water cooling is the difference. I have the materials coming to make a "full metal jacket" water cooling jacket for the V6s on the way (I have 3 of them). Another advantage is I can shorten the cool zone by a good 15mm to gain extra Z. I'm really looking forward to seeing how this goes and if my hunch is right. The only other difference with the Kraken (and Chimera and Cyclops) is the way the heartbreaks slide into the cold zone and held with set screws rather than screw in like the E3D. It may be that this provides better insulation than the threaded heatbreak. It is definitely larger OD so there is more SS (lower heat transfer) than the threaded version. I am at the point where I experience the side effects of very subtle differences like this.

cheers,
Michael

[precisionpete]

So one word.....water.

I found the design using the fin modification from this thread:

http://forum.e3d-online.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=66

Just brought this up again because for some unknown reason after printing along great my heat break clogged. It was much easier to take things apart since I have wire connectors on everything now.

So is that the mod that people are using? I can imagine that with water cooling that heat break should almost never clog.

[mhackney]

That is the mod. If you are in the US you can get the tube from OnlineMetals.com:

Aluminum 6061-T6 Bare Drawn Tube 1" x 0.083" x 0.834"

and fittings from http://www.novahobby.com

2 PCs 90 Degree brass water nipple M6 threaded For RC Boat 521T96

[jdurand]

Looking at their drawing (CY-COOLER-BLOCK-AIR), it seems like it wouldn't be hard to make a water cooled version. Since I haven't received my Chimera yet, maybe I'll just make a water cooling block and put the stock cooler block and fan aside. Might make it easier to mount it to the effector holes too if I can plan where things go (and don't need to worry about a fan in the way).

[precisionpete]

I should have found this mod sooner!

TY for the heads up on the tubing but I can buy it local here in S. Calif. 10 feet tubing cheaper than what they sell 1 ft for.
And we have real good hardware store that sells small water fittings.

Another project time.

Ideally a closed water system so no worries about water getting anywhere around electronics.

That also looks like a good project Jdurand but make the block out of copper or brass so everything can be brazed.

[jdurand]

What needs brazing?

[mhackney]

You can buy 10' of that tubing for less than $6.45? Wow! The shipping cost $7, more than the metal. No need to braze. Copper and brass are heavy, no need for the extra mass. JB Weld works great, I'm noodling how I'm going to do it. One option is to mill a box that will slice over the existing fins (trimming the fins down for water passage) and epoxying that in place. Another option is to purpose make a new block. Have a few other projects before getting to this one though.

[precisionpete]

Sorry Jdurand my mistake I was thinking of the water hoses when talking about that all fin air cooler.
I thought instead of coolant lines to braze solid copper connections so impossible to leak.
As usual I changed the design in my mind.

Actually for the cost of the aluminum tube in 10' length is $8.63 and metal supply is 1 mile from our shop.
So ya kinda cheaper, the online guy has to make a profit some how!

This also got me thinking about how to eliminate the heat break and make the nozzle and heat break 1 part.
I think that connection between the 2 causes some problems with jams.
Probably already been thought of?