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Should have been something like Alpha Bravo & Charlie towers

I agree. The towers should have been labeled with something oher than XYZ.

If you wanted to keep it easy to figure out where to plug the towers on the Rambo, then label them with both XYZ and something else. Then NEVER call them XYZ when discussing them. This was and is a source of confusion when I am trying to train new people on our group-used machine.

First off, thanks for the excellent manual!

A couple of things I would suggest is:

Before soldering the heated bed wires down to the bed, flip the bed over and put a piece of Kapton tape across the pads on the top side. Then flip it back over and solder the wires on. This keeps all of the solder on the bottom side where you need it. Since the 18ga. wires are a bit thicker, this will allow you to coat the wires more thoroughly with solder (and since we are just soldering the wires to the pad, and not going through the holes, it is the only mechanical connect we're going to get).

I did the first connection the way the manual said to, and to no one's surprise I ended up with most of my solder pooling up on the other side of the bed. So flipped it over and chased it back to the other side with the soldering iron and put the tape down and soldered both leads. This time it came out perfect.

I would go as far as to recommend doing something similar with the resistor and the LED as well. Bend the leads of the devices first, clip them to just short of the thickness of the bed, put your tape down on the top side of the bed and solder in the devices from the bottom side. No need for filing the top side down later.

And when it comes to sliding the 18ga. wires down the center of the supports, take the time to re-twist them to get them back to their normal size (no need to over do it), and put a drop or two of liquid dishwashing soap down the hole prior to sliding the wires in. I used wire pulling lube, but it's not necessary to go out and purchase it for one pull. I just happened to have it laying around (I often play electrician on the weekends for friends). It's an old electrician's trick, and the soap will not harm the wires.

And I am bit confused on which wires go where in the supports, the manual calls for the 18ga. ones to go down one support, and the 22ga. cable de-sheathed, cut in half, and just the red and black wires to go down another support. But the manual totals up the wire count to eight wires. I'm just a product of the public education system but, up until now, 2 + 2 has always equaled 4, not eight. Even for very large values of two...

Thanks again!

rootboy wrote:First off, thanks for the excellent manual!

And I am bit confused on which wires go where in the supports, the manual calls for the 18ga. ones to go down one support, and the 22ga. cable de-sheathed, cut in half, and just the red and black wires to go down another support. But the manual totals up the wire count to eight wires. I'm just a product of the public education system but, up until now, 2 + 2 has always equaled 4, not eight. Even for very large values of two...

Thanks again!

You posted in the wrong manual thread. This is for the v1 machine, not the v2.

Can you point me to the page that's causing you the confusion in the v2 manual? The 22ga wires are for the extruder motor and all four wires go into the tower. The Y axis gets the four 22ga wires as well as two pair of 26ga wires - 8 wires.

Page 62: "The Z axis tower will get the 18ga hot end wires, the X axis tower will get the end-stop wires
and the Y axis tower will get the 22ga wires for the extruder as well as two pair of 26ga wires for the
PEEK fan and the layer fan."

g.

Ah, thanks. I sorted it out, since my house pretty much looks like the back room of a TV repair shop, I had plenty of wire and cable lying around.

Right now I'm very much at a loss in the assembly of the V2.
Section 7 is talking about installing a stop screw for the T-channel towers, however the vertical supports have been changed in the latest revision of the kit and there is no place for the stop screw.
What do I do now???

Please disregard my confusion.
Tonkabot and John at SeeMeCNC cleared my oversight up...

Small typo in the Burn Hazard section of Page 2:

Also before of the heated bed which can reach high temperatures capable of causing burns.

The assembly manual (which is quite good, overall, BTW!) can be a little confusing if, like me, you print it out in B & W for use while assembling the printer.

On p. 190, the photo of the Rambo board showing where to plug in the endstops, does clearly have a rectangle around the proper board connectors-but the X, Y and Z which are also drawn on the photo are on the lower stop connectors, and those letters are all I saw in the B & W print....had me going for a while, until i realized the board itself was printed with function, and I swapped the connectors over to the lower row.

I guess it's not much of a problem if nobody has reported it previously.....

Some corrections for the next manual:

Typo on Page 34:

nut to fit, try inserting it from the other side of the part. The laser kerf results in a slight cut angle that
makes one side of a cut area a tiny bit wider than the other. This will help get the nuts inserted. If
they're too lose, you can use a small tab of Scotch tape to hold them in until you've put screws in the
problem nuts.

Clarification:
Page 38: I suggest changing the text from:
"Make sure that when you're installing the vertical supports that the 1/2” screws you installed are
facing inward."

To something like:
"Make sure that when you're installing the vertical supports that the heads of the 1/2” screws you installed are
facing inward. See Figs. 19-8, 19-12, 19-13"


Figure mis-labeled on page 47. "Fig. 4-35: Tower mounting hardware installed. " Should be 4-33

Addition:
Page 52. My kit came with a rev 7 plate. The instructions for a rev 7 are completely missing. I also have an extra LED and resistor (perhaps I use them elsewhere, but the rev 7 plate only has a spot for one LED).

Check the 2nd Edition thread, lewis1914.

g.

The manual i'm working from is:

Welcome to the Assembly Guide for the Rostock MAX v2.0 3D printer.
Version 1.67, August 27th, 2014
Repetier-Host Edition
Copyright 2014 by Gene Buckle

Is there a newer version?

lewis1914 wrote:The manual i'm working from is:

Welcome to the Assembly Guide for the Rostock MAX v2.0 3D printer.
Version 1.67, August 27th, 2014
Repetier-Host Edition
Copyright 2014 by Gene Buckle

Is there a newer version?

This is what I found under the Rostock Max V 2 subforum: http://download.seemecnc.com/rostockmax ... dition.pdf

Assembly Guide for the Rostock MAX v2.0 3D printer. Version 2.37, November 21st, 2014

Thanks Eaglezsoar. The 2nd Ed. isn't officially released yet, but it's available.

g.

Why doesn't the latest manual have pid autotuning for the heated bed?

Because it takes too long (it tended to time out) and was determined to be essentially un-necessary.

g.

Hey there,

I post here, because I have a V1 Rostock, but as I see, I would have the same issue with V2.

I am European, and use metrics. Until now, for tightening the towers, I used a metric allen wrench that I filed down until it works its way in the button head cap screws. It is not perfect, and I want to be able to fine tune my towers alignment without having to deal with unadapted tools (which I did until now).

I then bought a set of imperial allen keys on ebay, but none of them actually fit the screws.

I searched in the manual (V1 and V2), and if in the list of tools, there are 3 allen keys listed, there is no indication on which one is fitted for which screw. The assembly guide also does not tell which one to use.

I don't understand inches, and fractions of inches, and would like to be able to buy the right tool for the job.
Can you guys guide me, please ?

Should I use the 3/32", the 5/32", or the 7/64" ?

Thanks.

OK, forget it, I found where my problem comes from. the screws I own are not consistent in size. The hex wrench that fits one wont fit another or have too much play.
I have found a couple of keys that will do the job for all screws.

enggmaug wrote:OK, forget it, I found where my problem comes from. the screws I own are not consistent in size. The hex wrench that fits one wont fit another or have too much play.
I have found a couple of keys that will do the job for all screws.

It's good you worked out a solution.

Gene, I checked the latest assembly manual rev and apparently the new Onyx v5 and v6 are not covered. A member contacted me privately asking about a pair of wires connecting to the RAMBo hot end terminals. I was not aware of this change but apparently the v5 and 6 Onyx has 2 LEDS. The extra one is a power indicator to the hot end. Were you aware of this?

cheers,
Michael

The current manual only covers the Rev 7 bed. The two-LED Onyx was only used for a short period of time. I think the 2nd Ed. of the manual covers that type.

g.

Great, thanks.

The photo on the Rev 7 product page shows two holes for LEDs. Is the photo just not updated?

EDIT: yup, it's a V5 photo - the stencil on the bed shows it.

Makes it a bit challenging for folks like him to know which manual version to use!

Thanks Gene.

Yeah. That's the price of insanely rapid product iteration I guess.

g.

Seems like the 2 LEDs was a good idea though!

Well if you think about it, the power LED is kind of redundant. If the bed is heating, you'll see the one LED jitter with the PWM of the heating cycle.

g.