Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

If you locate that kapton or silicon heater that you are looking for please let us know, there is a lot of complaints with the Onyx not being flat.

I have a silicone heater that I am working to test. The issue with these is they are not flat - there is a bulge where the wires and electronics are embedded. A special plate needs to be constructed to use these. Unfortunately, I sold all my plates so I need to wait for the next batch (should be today or tomorrow).

cambo3D - I just posted on another thread about the Al plate. I tested the deflection in a 40ton hydraulic press and it took A LOT of pressure to cause a measurable deflection of .1mm. There is something very odd going on here. My machine was very well cut and went together without these issues.

I took the time to do some current draw testing for the onyx today. Here are the results.
I have not tested the stock 12v supply, because it's not wired for the onyx in my build.
Initial current draw for each temperature is from room temp.

with the thin walled calibration print, what exactly am i checking for? height, width,??? http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5573
or just thickness of the wall?

At this point:

getting good first layer adhesion - check
getting good layer adhesion without gaps or overfill - check with a little work to do on the blobs. Your extruder appears to be reasonably well calibrated and filament pressure correct.
no signs of backlash (i.e. parallel sides, plumb sides, layers stacked properly) - check

Now you can measure wall thickness, width and height and compare to your model and slicer settings - priceless (sorry, had to add that!)

mhackney wrote:At this point:

getting good first layer adhesion - check
getting good layer adhesion without gaps or overfill - check with a little work to do on the blobs. Your extruder appears to be reasonably well calibrated and filament pressure correct.
no signs of backlash (i.e. parallel sides, plumb sides, layers stacked properly) - check

Now you can measure wall thickness, width and height and compare to your model and slicer settings - priceless (sorry, had to add that!)

do i really need to check that last line, or was that just being funny? seriously i dont know...lol

cambo3d wrote:with the thin walled calibration print, what exactly am i checking for? height, width,??? http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5573
or just thickness of the wall?

I have used that to help calibrate x-y steps/mm by comparing the width and length to what it was supposed to be. Most often though the goal with that cube is to tweak single wall thickness. Try to get a good measurement of the wall thickness, one layer is best (be careful not to cut into it with calipers). Now compare that to what the g-code thought the layer thickness was. If they are close, tweak your extruder flow modifier in the slicer. If they are way off apply the change to your e-steps/mm.

http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter%2 ... tion_Guide

Shoot down to "Slic3r/Skeinforge/Sfact settings".

Hope it helps.

Sorry, I was being serious and funny all at once! It is good to verify dimensions at this point.

foshon wrote:

cambo3d wrote:with the thin walled calibration print, what exactly am i checking for? height, width,??? http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5573
or just thickness of the wall?

I have used that to help calibrate x-y steps/mm by comparing the width and length to what it was supposed to be. Most often though the goal with that cube is to tweak single wall thickness. Try to get a good measurement of the wall thickness, one layer is best (be careful not to cut into it with calipers). Now compare that to what the g-code thought the layer thickness was. If they are close, tweak your extruder flow modifier in the slicer. If they are way off apply the change to your e-steps/mm.

http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter%2 ... tion_Guide

Shoot down to "Slic3r/Skeinforge/Sfact settings".

Hope it helps.

can't get that link to work..edit: finally popped up

i'm noticing my extruder is getting loud, sounds like wood creaking ...hmmm

Egads foshon, that avatar scared the he!! out of me!

Mine also creaks. And sounds like a can full of rocks on retracts. My other printer has a direct drive extruder (bowden also) and is much, much quieter. I want to figure out how to get one on here and try it out.

I tried to post a youtube video but its scrambling the video for some reason.. grrr.

Mine has the same squeak. I haven't gotten a chance to try 3in1 Oil on the gears yet.

g.

I took the extruder apart and checked it nothing seems to be out of the ordinary, but at the same time while it was off, i sanded a bevel into the smaller gears near the filament roller, it seemed like it was rubbing against the bottom of the bowden adapter nut. I Put it all back together and the creaking noises went away. I can't be positive that's what caused it but might have been a combination of that and retorquing the assembly bolts. at least the noise is gone for now.

gabrielk had that issue too and he posted about shaving a bit of plastic to allow the knurled nut to thread a little higher up to avoid the gear

http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=1168

ApacheXMD wrote:gabrielk had that issue too and he posted about shaving a bit of plastic to allow the knurled nut to thread a little higher up to avoid the gear

http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=1168

I saw that but i didn't want to sand that area down, i think its that length for a reason to help the filament from binding. I think beveling the gear is a better idea

I got a little ambitious last night. Since my calibration prints were coming out ok, I'd try something more useful. The spool holder, not perfect but still gonna be put to use. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:60750

what infill pattern would you have used for the base of the spool holder and how do i get rid of the blobs.

The print looks pretty good.
On the base it just looks like you are extruding too much plastic.

Polygonhell wrote:The print looks pretty good.
On the base it just looks like you are extruding too much plastic.

do i just adjust flow rate, while its printing to reduce plastic? then change it back when the infill is done?

cambo3d wrote:

Polygonhell wrote:The print looks pretty good.
On the base it just looks like you are extruding too much plastic.

do i just adjust flow rate, while its printing to reduce plastic? then change it back when the infill is done?

This is what I do to calibrate, print a single wall print adjust flow rate then verify with a 100% fill print.
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 5452#p5452

thanks!

Make sure you only use that for its intended purposes.

Since i broke my lcd angle mount trying to take my defective seemecnc lcd off. I had to figure out an alternative way to mount it and still have access to the sd card slot.

here is my solution. Its not angled like I wanted but it works. SEEMECNC CAN I GET A REPLACEMENT ANGLE MOUNT, WITH MY REPLACEMENT LCD???

cambo3d and others, I HIGHLY recommend that you contact SeeMeCNC support directly and not make requests in posts. They do not monitor this forum on a daily basis. Simply check the member list and sort by last visit time and you will see what I mean. Even if they did visit everyday, the volume of posts would make it difficult for them to find requests like this. Email customer support!

Cheers,
Michael