Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Yes, I'm running .91.7.

were you able to just copy your working configuration.h and pins into the new fw?

Why is slic3r so much slower than kisslicer when generating gcode

Yes. The configuration transferred easily. There are just a few more defines in .91.7

ha ha, you said "borked"

I am snickering beer out my nose right now.

joecnc2006 wrote:Why is slic3r so much slower than kisslicer when generating gcode

Uncheck the box that says avoid crossing perimeter and it should be much faster. The box is under
layers and perimeters.

That just saved me so much time!

Will I also need to adjust my delta offset (concavity/convexity) or will that stay the same as I calibrated it in the previous version?

Hey, has anyone else tinkered with this setting?
It defaults to 180, and I've been curious about it since seeing Flateric's posts with the 1000/s smoothiboard, and Mhachney's observations with moire patterns on the surface finish.

So far I've tried 200 and 300, I'll try reprinting a part with flat surfaces shortly to see if it makes any difference.

I'm printing some small parts for a job, and I'm not noticing any stuttering in the print. All I notice is that the "tone" of the printer has changed a bit.

It looks like the value is actually used in the code too.

Are there new features in this version to do with accuracy of the thermistors? I noticed that ext0 has type 97 and the bed has type 98 rather than type 8 as in .81.

dizzy1 wrote:Are there new features in this version to do with accuracy of the thermistors? I noticed that ext0 has type 97 and the bed has type 98 rather than type 8 as in .81.

<puts on Thermistor Guy hat>

I spent some time digging around in the Configuration.h firmware file over the last two weeks, so I think what I'm about to tell you is correct. You can load Configuration.h and have a look yourself if you like, just search the file for "thermistor" and see what you get.

The upshot is that the way your temp sensor works is that the resistance of a thermistor varies inversely with the temperature, so it should be ~ 100,000 Ohm at room temp or about 25C, and it's much less at hotend operating temp of 200C. But the resistance that corresponds to the hot temp, and all the temps in between, is set in software. Your firmware stores a curve that, in simplest terms, allows it to sample the resistance across your thermistors for the bed and the hotend and return the temperature that corresponds with that resistance.

The stock Repetier firmware comes with one set of temperature tables and defaults to a single table contained in Configuration.h. The Marlin firmware includes a file called thermistortables.h, which tries to anticipate many different potential kinds of thermistor.

The Rostock .91 firmware uses Configuration.h to auto-generate thermistor tables based on the known values for the thermistor that ships from SeemeCNC. type 97 corresponds to the first auto-generate thermistor table, and type 98 is the second auto-generate table. If, for whatever reason, your measured temps are not matching what your Rostock thinks they are, you can go in and adjust.

Is the new .91 way "better" for some value of "better?" I dunno. but it seems to work ok for PLA.

Smiley is basically correct.

By picking 97 an 98, Repetier will compute a thermistor table for each based on a "Beta" value. These can be found in the thermistor manufacturers documentation, however your just fitting a curve to a none linear system and they are usually selected to give better accuracy at lower temperatures, the Beta value in the firmware can be adjusted to give better accuracy at printing temperatures.

Picking 97 and 98 also means SeeMe can deal with potentially different thermistors for the bed and hotend and tweak them to be more accurate at the disparate temperatures they tend to operate.

MSURunner wrote:

cope413 wrote:haven't seen it posted anywhere, and I just made the switch to .91, but horizontal radius = printer radius - carriage offset - extruder offset, correct?

It's working but definitely need to make some tweaks to it - not a fan of some of the "wait for temp" features and the like...

Yes, it was a calculated variable in the older versions (still is calculated in the configuration.h file of .91) under the name of PRINTER_RADIUS, but as it is now in the EEPROM under HORIZONTAL_RADIUS, you need to make sure to do the math and correct the value associated with your particular build.

This should have mentioned at the beginning of the thread.

Not sure if I remember right, was it version 91, where it should be possible to tune the Z-Position on the fly (while printing)?
How is this supposed to work? (I could not really find a menu entry for it..)
Thx!

Repetier .92 has the "Z baby stepping" feature in general settings or something like that, first option on the menu. Its pretty great when the Z-height is off just that little bit at the start.

Not sure if anyone ever looks at this section anymore unfortunately I've got a V1 Rostock max that has upgrades still all the original electronics. It will not connect to my new touch bar MacBook Pro with the USBc ports. I do use an adapter, from what I can see the computer does recognize that there is a Rambo but Arduino will not send the Firmware to the machine.

I haven't used my Rostock in a while because of other printer purchases but id rather get some use out of it since I can't sell it for anything worth having at this point. I went ahead and installed a volcano e3d on this bad boy and plan to use it for non precise prints that I need printed quickly out of PETG.

any help would be greatly appreciated this is surely the best most active forum I've ever been on.

You can replace the controller with a Duet. I've done this to my V1s. I attach the Duet to the front door after removing the LCD panel.

g.

Gene its great to still see you here my man. When I first got my machine your posts and work was invaluable. I will look into it. Do you think it is worth putting anything else into this machine?

Justin

Hey Gene just checked it out man a bit expensive for the board. I recently purchased a Form2 and really don't want to invest too much into the Rostock past the upgrades I've already done

You could grab yourself a Rasberry Pi 3 and install Octoprint on it. You'd get wireless printing out of the deal (the Pi 3 has built-in WiFi) and you can return the Mac to holding a door open.

g.

Oh my how dare you Gene ! once you go Mac you don't go back. but ok I will look into it I also still have an Old Pc I guess I could use if need be.

tc3jg wrote: Oh my how dare you Gene ! once you go Mac you don't go back. but ok I will look into it I also still have an Old Pc I guess I could use if need be.

A pi3 kit can be had for $50 and save you a bunch of headaches.

Thanks I'm going to look into it. Is there a specific one I need and does this pretty much run the printer since the raspberry pies are computers ?

The Raspberry Pi 3 is the one you want - it's got built in WiFi.

g.

Ok Gene that is the move I will make. Now regarding octoprint I also run that through the Raspberry pi 3 too correct? I'm considering getting the CR-10 as a third machine can I run two machines off one Pi?