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I need to wait for wheels froм Openbuilds, load cells from China (for holding heated bed and autocalibration), design some parts to hold viki2, controller, etc., lasercut enclosure - all this should be done soon, in about a month.

But.

I need Smoothieboard 2 Pro, it is unclear when beta-test would start, Arthur Wolf don't want to tell dates.

I need OctoPrint to support CuraEngine's multiple objects/multiple matherials, foosel said it wouldn't be there at next version.

So I could only hope to print different colors Christmas tree on my MAX Metal 24v Multicolor Enclosured Autocalibrated Wireless aka "Ashwood mkI" just in time.

Renha wrote:I need to wait for wheels froм Openbuilds, load cells from China (for holding heated bed and autocalibration), design some parts to hold viki2, controller, etc., lasercut enclosure - all this should be done soon, in about a month.

But.

I need Smoothieboard 2 Pro, it is unclear when beta-test would start, Arthur Wolf don't want to tell dates.

I need OctoPrint to support CuraEngine's multiple objects/multiple matherials, foosel said it wouldn't be there at next version.

So I could only hope to print different colors Christmas tree on my MAX Metal 24v Multicolor Enclosured Autocalibrated Wireless aka "Ashwood mkI" just in time.

If you get a Smoothieboard (regular kind) I recommend not buying it from Uberclock. Their customer service email is a black hole. They sold me two Smoothieboards, one with two capacitors hanging off the board because they were not soldered properly. Which Arthur or someone in the IRC channel acknowledged is an ongoing problem. Been a month, two emails asking for replacement. Neither was answered, so now I have to figure out how to go after them to get my money back.

Hate to say it, but I might have to go back to the Azteeg X5 after this.

626Pilot wrote:

Renha wrote:I need to wait for wheels froм Openbuilds, load cells from China (for holding heated bed and autocalibration), design some parts to hold viki2, controller, etc., lasercut enclosure - all this should be done soon, in about a month.

But.

I need Smoothieboard 2 Pro, it is unclear when beta-test would start, Arthur Wolf don't want to tell dates.

I need OctoPrint to support CuraEngine's multiple objects/multiple matherials, foosel said it wouldn't be there at next version.

So I could only hope to print different colors Christmas tree on my MAX Metal 24v Multicolor Enclosured Autocalibrated Wireless aka "Ashwood mkI" just in time.

If you get a Smoothieboard (regular kind) I recommend not buying it from Uberclock. Their customer service email is a black hole. They sold me two Smoothieboards, one with two capacitors hanging off the board because they were not soldered properly. Which Arthur or someone in the IRC channel acknowledged is an ongoing problem. Been a month, two emails asking for replacement. Neither was answered, so now I have to figure out how to go after them to get my money back.

Hate to say it, but I might have to go back to the Azteeg X5 after this.

The guys at Robotseed.com are quite aware of the situation and are more than happy to help. I can't say what they'll do about the faulty board, but they will help us out here in the 'Sates in the meantime.

ZakRabbit wrote:The guys at Robotseed.com are quite aware of the situation and are more than happy to help. I can't say what they'll do about the faulty board, but they will help us out here in the 'Sates in the meantime.

What is their relation to Uberclock and Smoothieboard?

I just uploaded photographic evidence to Discover. I'm disputing the cost of one of the boards. We'll see what happens. Maybe Mark doesn't know his email is messed up, and this is how he finds out. On the other hand, maybe it's negligence. I have no knowledge of this person, so I have no basis to suppose one thing or another. That makes me nervous about ever doing business with him again because right now, I don't have enough information to know what to expect.

626Pilot wrote: If you get a Smoothieboard (regular kind) I recommend not buying it from Uberclock.

thank you, I wouldn't anyway, I need 3 extruders to work with Diamond Hotend, and really want integrated Intel Edison

626Pilot wrote:

ZakRabbit wrote:The guys at Robotseed.com are quite aware of the situation and are more than happy to help. I can't say what they'll do about the faulty board, but they will help us out here in the 'Sates in the meantime.

What is their relation to Uberclock and Smoothieboard?

I suppose they're the European distributor. I couldn't get ahold of Uberclock at all, so that's where I bought my unit from. I know the gentleman from Robotseed is heading up a lot of questions on the Smoothieboard forums, so I'm not sure if they're the actual manufacturer or what.

I've bought from robotseed a number of times and never an issue. Fast prompt shipping with everything securely packed.

I too can and do recommend RobotSeed for Smoothieboards and GLCD's.

I emailed Mark at Uberclock three times over almost a one month period with absolutely no response what so ever!

I did my business with RobotSeed and things went silky smooth! I received my order within one week and the email service was second to none!

I believe ZakRabbit received his order around the same time as I did.

Will be buying from RobotSeed again for sure!

Stay away from any business that cannot or will not reply to simply emails... Period!

RMLynch wrote:I too can and do recommend RobotSeed for Smoothieboards and GLCD's.

I emailed Mark at Uberclock three times over almost a one month period with absolutely no response what so ever!

I did my business with RobotSeed and things went silky smooth! I received my order within one week and the email service was second to none!

I believe ZakRabbit received his order around the same time as I did.

Will be buying from RobotSeed again for sure!

Stay away from any business that cannot or will not reply to simply emails... Period!

There was some recent discussion about this in The Lounge.

Robotseed and Uberclock are described by Arthur Wolf (one of the Smoothie guys) as "sister companies". Robotseed is attempting to help Uberclock recover from getting slammed by orders earlier this year. I don't know, but maybe it's something else on top of that. It seems unusual to me that a company would be so thoroughly jammed up that they couldn't answer emails for this long.

I have learned that it's a good idea to email a hardware vendor before trusting them. Robotseed is in Europe, but I have obtained reasonably fast shipping from that continent before. I got my Hall-O boards from mauk.cc, which is in Holland. They arrived in about a week.

Hi,
I should receive my Metal Max Platform next week to finally get a full Metal Max build... I was wondering if anyone has been able to fit a Z-probe limit switch (should be the same on original platform) on this Kind of build ? Before I was using a lower E3D mount (having the heat block lower than the platform itself) I was just attaching the limit switch to the heat-block with some wood working clamps.. but now that I want to cool my E3D heatsink I need to use a higher mount for it and the block is mostly flush to the platform and I don't have any place to grip the limit switch. Autoleveling was working very well .. Now I don't know what I can do .. I still have that limit switch but no place to snap it.. Anyone did really rigid mount for it ? I found some that go over the heat block but this is not rigid enough..


Thank you for your help and I really Enjoy my Metal Max build ..

lyncos79 wrote:I should receive my Metal Max Platform next week to finally get a full Metal Max build... I was wondering if anyone has been able to fit a Z-probe limit switch (should be the same on original platform) on this Kind of build ?

I've been developing lots of mods for the MAX Metal, as well as redoing my old mods to work with it. Since you asked, this is the first I'll release. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1000936

626Pilot wrote:

lyncos79 wrote:I should receive my Metal Max Platform next week to finally get a full Metal Max build... I was wondering if anyone has been able to fit a Z-probe limit switch (should be the same on original platform) on this Kind of build ?

I've been developing lots of mods for the MAX Metal, as well as redoing my old mods to work with it. Since you asked, this is the first I'll release. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1000936

Thanks for sharing 626Pilot
I am looking forward to seeing other cool things you design for the MAX METAL Frame.

bvandiepenbos wrote:Thanks for sharing 626Pilot
I am looking forward to seeing other cool things you design for the MAX METAL Frame.

That's my new filament spool holder, and an early prototype for a flying triple extruder mod. This is inspired by your Fly-N-Strude, and the one it's based on (I forget who did it - dude had an entire giant Rostock v1 geared extruder hanging from elastic). It's intended to replace my arm-mounted extruder mod, and is specifically intended to support the new 3-in-1-out Diamond hot end. The extruder platforms are long enough to support putting the EZStruder on a geared motor.

Like the Fly-N-Strude, parachute cord suspends the extruder platform from the carriages. In order to avoid overtaxing the axis motors (and also to avoid the hot end falling & shattering the glass if you power down the printer when it's homed), suspension masts are mounted to the top rails. (That's similar to the solution the previous guy used.) They project 50mm inward from the rails, and parachute cord descends from them to the holes in the white crossmembers in the extruder platform. That takes up some of the load, and should help to keep the extruder platform better stabilized - we'll see. The tangs on the base of the suspension mast are meant to help align it perfectly with a spool holder.

I also redesigned my filament spool holder to bolt onto your frame, pointed in or out, with a 5-degree incline so that the spool will tend to "fall" towards the edge of the printer. It has to be pointed out if you're using the flying extruder masts. This design has a "less fat" cantilevered design, allowing it to hold Hatchbox and other filament spools with super narrow "donut holes." (Still doesn't hold a T-Glase spool, but it will before I upload it to Thingiverse.)

From now on, any mods I design that have to take the frame into account (like spool holders) will be designed for the MAX METAL. I design for #10-32 x 1/2 screws and the roll-in tee nuts from EBay. This is a fantastic frame, and I hope I can help motivate more people to buy them.

626Pilot wrote:

lyncos79 wrote:I should receive my Metal Max Platform next week to finally get a full Metal Max build... I was wondering if anyone has been able to fit a Z-probe limit switch (should be the same on original platform) on this Kind of build ?

I've been developing lots of mods for the MAX Metal, as well as redoing my old mods to work with it. Since you asked, this is the first I'll release. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1000936

Thank you ! I try this as soon as possible !

626Pilot wrote:It's intended to replace my arm-mounted extruder mod, and is specifically intended to support the new 3-in-1-out Diamond hot end.

wow 626Pilot, that's kinda sad - for about a month, inspired by your arm-mounted extruder mod, I has been worked on own version of it with some nice 120g geared motors Is arm-mounting so bad?

Renha wrote:wow 626Pilot, that's kinda sad - for about a month, inspired by your arm-mounted extruder mod, I has been worked on own version of it with some nice 120g geared motors Is arm-mounting so bad?

It is very difficult to set up arm-mounted extruders in a way that minimizes friction through the Bowden tube. I had developed mounts that were angled out 15 and 25 degrees (depending on whether you were using a one- or two-nozzle E3D) and that definitely helped a lot, but the less straight the filament path is - the more bends it has to go around in the tube - the more friction you get. That's hard on retraction, and the whole point of this is to make retraction better by straightening the path. I find myself having to move the motors up or down the arms depending on whether the footprint of the print is large or small, in order to minimize friction without the PTFE getting yanked horribly because the platform is traveling too far from the center. They'd have to be mounted on some kind of universal joint to really work the best way possible - or, the entire weight of the motor would have to rest on one arm rather than two, so it would always be pointed straight at the effector. That seemed like a great recipe for causing flexion on three of the printer's six arms, and that flexion would screw up the positional accuracy.

Also, when I upgraded to the MAX Metal, I got 0.9-degree steppers. They don't have as much holding torque, and the weight of the motors on the arms was enough that the effector would drop when the power is turned off. This is dangeous - it's more than heavy enough to spiderweb the glass, if it falls from high enough! I just got finished stringing everything up, the printer is off, and the effector is hanging a few inches above the surface.

The person who did the first hanging extruder mod had to run the elastic up and down between the top of the printer and the extruder several times. This was necessary to get the tension right. Now that I see how the upper suspension performs in practice, I think it may be necessary to do something similar. It pulls too much when the effector is very low and near the edge. Another option might be to run the parachute cord from the masts to the carriages, "lightening" them directly and then letting them take the load of the platform in its entirety. However, I was hoping that the use of the overhead masts would help to stabilize the platform and stop it from wobbling or falling to one side - which it does.

There are more ways of stringing this up than I have explored yet. Maybe I'll find a better way.

Okay, maybe I should wait for your results. But, look at that beauty: http://www.omc-stepperonline.com/gear-r ... p-133.html, it's weight and torque.

.9 degree steppers on 16t pulleys with two stock 1.8 nema 17 steppers sitting on the effector, without it falling. I tried three, but that definitely slides down. And yes the power is off.

KAS wrote:.9 degree steppers on 16t pulleys with two stock 1.8 nema 17 steppers sitting on the effector, without it falling. I tried three, but that definitely slides down. And yes the power is off.

The 0.9-degree steppers I got from tridprinting.com could hold the effector with the power off, but only the effector. As soon as I had the hot end mounted, it fell on its own. Extruders mounted on two arms was enough to make it fall precipitously.

KAS wrote:

20150907_190322.jpg

How do you like the Trick Laser platform? It's expensive, but I understand why. I love it.

626Pilot wrote:

KAS wrote:

20150907_190322.jpg

How do you like the Trick Laser platform? It's expensive, but I understand why. I love it.

Working like a champ to be honest. Everything is extremely tight with little to no effector wiggle.

As for the stepper thing, I think I misunderstood what he was talking about. I purchased the .9's through sparkfun and they have a 48N.cm holding torque. But have a 2.2 N.cm cogging(non-powered detent holding) and what ever crazy math that equates to with three motors on 16t pulleys at the effector. When they're hot after a print, I'd expect the holding value to be lower and I didn't test that in the above pic.

http://cdn.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Robo ... GHM809.PDF

I'm still unable to find any good layer fan design that fit the Platform... I used my old ones and cut them a bit but the air is going on my hot end block (using E3D V6/lite6) and it's cooling it down ... Any ready to print design exists ?

Have you seen what KAS has done a few posts up?

forrie wrote:Have you seen what KAS has done a few posts up?

Yes, but he's not using the little posts and I am using them... Maybe I can give a try but I feel I'll loose height..

Anyway, can I please get a link to that 'fan rack' stl file ? I may give a try.

Thanks

lyncos79 wrote:I'm still unable to find any good layer fan design that fit the Platform... I used my old ones and cut them a bit but the air is going on my hot end block (using E3D V6/lite6) and it's cooling it down ... Any ready to print design exists ?

Someplace, maybe repables.com has low profile layer fan shrouds.
Another thing is making a little turn down snout on end of shroud to direct air down and away from heater Blick. I have made them from aluminium soda can... easy to cut with scissors and bend with pliers. Make it wedge into end or tape on with kapton tape or glue with rtv silicone. Hacky, but might get you by until you get a better model printed.