Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Thanks for the video!

I knew you would create great things.

That enclosure is awesome. I had similar ideas for my encloaure but never got round to doing them

This is SUPER nice!!!

Definitely getting better quality prints with the heated enclosure.
Still some tweaking to do, but a much higher success rate

Stevolution wrote:Definitely getting better quality prints with the heated enclosure.
Still some tweaking to do, but a much higher success rate

Not sure what the part is used for but you would have a nicer finish if you had oriented in upright position. With the head down touching the plate.

I think they did it that way to avoid using support, you can kinda see it was sliced in half.

This was a 'supportless' print. If you print it vertically, then you have issues getting the support out of the thread.
Hey... its not warped, lifted, bent, unfinished or string. That can only be good

Stevolution wrote:issues getting the support out of the thread.

Pretty sure it will print nicely vertically with out support. The overhang is not that great. Give it a go. You may be surprised.

I think the threads would be fine (as in no support required) but I'm not sure how the larger overhang below that will turn out. It depends on which slicer you're using, It looks kinda like MatterSlice based on the top layer. I don't have a lot of experience with MatterSlice so I can't really comment.

I am using Matterslice, as Cura and Slic3r don't seem to work very well. Slic3r prints the part miles off target for some reason.

I am using Mattercontrol. I am sure there are better ways, but I don't know them yet.
The overhang is pretty big at the bottom of the hexagonal part. I doubt that will print unsupported

Stevolution wrote: I doubt that will print unsupported

Defeat is not the worst of failures. Not to have tried is the true failure.

The problem with Slic3r isn't due to Slic3r, it's due to Mattercontrol. If you want to give Slic3r a shot, download & install it from http://www.slic3r.org.

g.

joe wrote:

Stevolution wrote: I doubt that will print unsupported

Defeat is not the worst of failures. Not to have tried is the true failure.

Of course.... printing something you know is going to fail because its failed every other time saves you filament, hassle and headaches

As for Slic3r. If I install the Slic3r software, I assume I have to set up all the settings from scratch? That fills me with fear. Took long enough to get Mattercontrol to work.
It would be nice to start printing a few items without constant adjustment, tweeking and swearing.

If the print come out a bit crappy around the edges, I will fine fill it, sand and spray paint it. Simple.

Hey, if your not gonn be using your printer anymore how much for the enclosure ^_^

Happily sell the heated enclosure if someone wanted it. But... not for some insultingly low price
I would rather it sat in the workshop and not get used, that I simply give it away.

A good offer gets the whole damn thing.

I gave it YET ANOTHER GO today... surprise surprise.. fail.

Printing with ABS. Blue painters tape, stuck to a well cleaned glass bed. ABS juice on the tape. Heated platform at 60 degrees, enclosure at 50 degrees.
Significantly curled up at all the edges after 1.5 hrs (of a 7 hour print). Pulled the blue tape off the glass by 6mm.
Had infill set to 0.2. Any less than that seems to cause other issues.

It now just an expensive piece of furniture

Why are you using blue painters tape AND abs juice for ABS at 60C bed? That has only ever worked for 3D printing witches who sacrifice their first born to never fail at a 3D print. You can't expect it to succeed like that.

Amazon, $27 sheet of ULTEM PEI @.040" thickness 12x12 sheet and some double sided tape that goes with it. Its all in this thread http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=7452

Works amazing for everyone that has used it. Print @85-100C, depending on what gets stuff to stick. MHackney is some kind of wizard that gets it to work at 85 for ABS. I've always had to run it around 95-100. Blue tape is for PLA on an Ultimaker Original.

Well, it was sort of a joke as I live in the United States and shipping would make the enclosure cost prohibitive.... But judging from the pics the enclosure could sell for $1000-1500 I would think.

But yea pei + 100c + 50c is what you need for abs.


But maybe you also need some .5mm drill bits to clean your nozzle from all the fail that has surrounded you're printer.

Why blue tape?

Because I have tried...

Kapton tape
ABS juice
Nothing
Painter tape
UHU
Hairspray
Gluestick
PEI sheet (until it got badly damaged when the print head crashed into it). And no... it didn't work for me.
Mad combinations of the above.

The reason for painters tape + ABS juice was because that was the best working one I had found.

What does pei + 100c + 50c mean? I am printing my ABS filament at 230c.

I believe that the 100C refers to bed temperature, and 50C to enclosure temperature.

I've also had good to excellent success with PEI. Would you mind going over the steps you went through to prepare it and your source for me? I've heard so many different ways of handling it, and a few different sources that have had different luck, so I'd like to find out what sort of process you went through to get there, as I've found Mike's guide isn't the whole story.

Bin it man

Its binned

Printing on a 60C bed is a guaranteed failure with ABS. You're essentially setting it up to fail and then blaming the machine.

g.

I have printed on 100deg, 90deg,, 80deg.... 60deg just happened to be the last temp I tried.
Its not like I have not put the hours into this thing to try and get it to work.

Anyway, I have reached a point now where I need to move on from this machine and do something more constructive with my time.
Thanks for everyone's advice.

Sucks when your the only one who can't get something to work. Better luck next time...


Btw, is 1000-1500 for the case too low?